CLEARCUT meets the 500i

[CLEARCUT]

Have you taken the rear cover off to see if it leans out a little? Idk if it would make a difference or not, just spitballing

I did. It seemed the same to me. Maybe leaner for a second or so, then back to rich.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Is it still down running between 10 & 11 grand only or has it picking up some as it breaks in? Other gentlemen said his had a 14,025 high reading when it was plugged in? Yeah it's all good when it's 'undercut/back cut' "down the hill Bill" but as you said, it's certainly be a problem in the brush. Not to mention dog hair and limbs. Limbing should be a fair bit better with square ground on a low rev...But still.

After a cut in something of some size, it seems to hit a rev-limiter, then as I’m brushing out the next tree, it’s low in top rpm. When cutting small trees, you have to push on the saw, and you can hear it clear up. Any other saw will be hitting the rev-limiter easily by now as far as the break-in is concerned.

 

[rogue60]

I wonder with such a cold tune how that is affecting bedding in of the rings and cylinder you only get one go at it that window would be comeing to an end.
Stick some .404 RS on the sucker and make it work for it's keep get some heat happening.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Run that mfer in some big stuff......tank after tank. Then pull that cover. For science and stuff.

I would love to, but I don’t believe there are big enough trees anywhere on our new unit! Lol.

 

[ferris]

20“ and a 9 Pin

 

[huskyboy]

If a 88cc 390xp and 91cc 661c can stay loaded cutting the stuff they do without a black and wet exhaust... so can a 500i. No excuse. But it might just be a break in program of sorts? Hope you guys get it figured.

 

[HYPERSAWS]

It seems to me that the 500 likes to be road hard and put away wet

 

[DND 9000]

I did. It seemed the same to me. Maybe leaner for a second or so, then back to rich.

When you have run some more fuel through it and it is really broken in and it is not better, go to a good dealer and let him hook it up to check the system and fuel numbers. Then you will know what`s really going on and he would also be able to recalibrate it, if it is necessary. But at the moment, just use it and let the saw work hard.

 

[~WBF]

After a cut in something of some size, it seems to hit a rev-limiter, then as I’m brushing out the next tree, it’s low in top rpm. When cutting small trees, you have to push on the saw, and you can hear it clear up. Any other saw will be hitting the rev-limiter easily by now as far as the break-in is concerned.

OK, thanks. That's a perfect description. That is exactly what happens when you richer up your low to stop from the high running away with a big air leak. I ran a saw like that for 10 days before I got to it. Turned out it had a huge rip in the intake boot that opened up on the job (I would find out later). It ran exactly how your saw runs. I had an excavator raking for me and pushing so I was able to deal with It, It was all property development in mature Black Cottonwood and maple. It was all going through the grinder. In other words "all 'undercut/back cut'.

Pretty unprofessional working away with my one f* up saw. I had one excavator with me and 3 chasing us that were raking up and pulling stumps and chucking trees.

* I had just cooked my newer saw which a had an AM piston in. (Last time I used one ever again).
___________
I never had a saw run like that that wasn't sick. It could very well be compensating for a leak? I also never ran a saw like that
that wasn't a absolute mess inside and on the verge of taking out the top end by the time my lazy azz got to it in after 10 days use.
I have seen a 365 tuned like that that was used for a stumping saw. It wouldn't clean up without pressure either. I can't imagine it was all that happy looking inside? Shine a light and see how black the top of the piston is?

How would one tell that a smart saw is not compensating for a air leak? This would be one sign if you ask me. Lots of new model saws get leaks. Usually intake leaks. Not that I bought one but the 2010 372 xt was the worst.
You may not be able to do anything in terms of recalibrate and such right now but you can test this for vac?

I don't really know the saw but can you try spray a carb cleaner or wd 40 around the intake/ throttle body area with a nozzle? If it manages to find a vac leak and blocks out the air then the saw should start 'quivering'
I would go over the whole thing and make sure it's tight so you absolutely have done all you can do.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Vac testing it can not hurt. It could just have a bad seal or boot or throttle body leak. Low fuel pressure on a throttle body GM product from the 80's runs like chit. Always rich a wot. Just a few thoughts.

 

[MustangMike]

I'm thinking the muff mod made it eat extra fuel … I did a 440 big bore and opened up the dp cover, and it ate fuel like I could not believe. Put a normal DP cover on it and it was much better.

If you fixed the cover, maybe the computer just needs some time to lean out. When my 261 went into "rich mode", it took about 6 tanks to return to normal.

 

[drf256]

I wonder if there any pre-programmed settings that make it run fat for X amount of time after original startup to allow for break in.

Could be fuel I guess, forgive me if I didn’t pay attention and that was already said.

Most of the saws I build start out much fatter on the H needle when they are first assembled. When the rings stop allowing blow by, the saws need to be really leaned out. Most even leak unburned oil out of the muffler for X amount of tanks, the it stops.

I wonder if it’s just gonna clean up as time goes on. Judging form the first vs. latest pics inside the muffler, it already has. It could just be blow by that’s coking in the muffler. Piston certainly looks fine.

 

[BonScott46]

How much time/tanks has this saw run? Seems like you guys would be breaking a saw in after a week with the amount of cutting you do.

 

[huskyboy]

How much time/tanks has this saw run? Seems like you guys would be breaking a saw in after a week with the amount of cutting you do.

I seated a caber ring in a 372 with a day of cutting yesterday, I ran 1 1/2 gallons through it. I notice most saws are broken in after a day or two if they are ran good. But the 500i might have a break in program which could take longer... the 572 took me a while before it’s run in program stopped cutting its balls off.

 

[CLEARCUT]

How much time/tanks has this saw run? Seems like you guys would be breaking a saw in after a week with the amount of cutting you do.

I lost count, but I do know it is over 20. I have just been using it a day here and there.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Vac testing it can not hurt. It could just have a bad seal or boot or throttle body leak. Low fuel pressure on a throttle body GM product from the 80's runs like chit. Always rich a wot. Just a few thoughts.

It will be pressure/vac tested here soon just to be sure, like you said.

 

[CLEARCUT]

I wish we had some timber to run it hard in, but we are in a salvage unit, and it’s not so much tree to tree to tree. It’s more like windfall to windfall to tree. And they are pretty small trees on this job.

 

[~WBF]

I wish we had some timber to run it hard in, but we are in a salvage unit, and it’s not so much tree to tree to tree. It’s more like windfall to windfall to tree. And they are pretty small trees on this job.

I don't know who ever came up this the name "JACKPOT!!!" I never felt lucky to come across them. Maybe because you can cut them all up in sequence and they all can come down at once. Unfortunately it usually equals less money.

 

[Mkinslow]

If the tree's aren't big enough, why not make some noodles. That ought a work it hard.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[BonScott46]

This thread pretty much sums up why I am not a fan of the M-tronic system (I don't have any experience with Autotune).