rogue60
Here For The Long Haul!
What's a tach? Must be important lolCareful there. You might offend some people videoing there hot rods showing a tach reading 13,000 rpm self feeding in the wood cutting soft pine/poplar. Lol
What's a tach? Must be important lolCareful there. You might offend some people videoing there hot rods showing a tach reading 13,000 rpm self feeding in the wood cutting soft pine/poplar. Lol
Why does sap bake onto a chain?
Heat!
The chains cutters leading edge will generate the most heat, ergo the leading edge will dull faster due to heat build up.
The higher the chain speed, the more heat is generated.
Lets be honest, it doesn't take much for a chain sharpened to specs to stop self feeding.
Just because the chain still cuts while being forced through the log utilizing humongous bucking spikes doesn't make it a sharp chain.
On a drill press I can feed a sharp drill bit fast with next to no force, but I can also feed the same DULL drill bit in the same material "fast" utilizing a 20+" pipe on the drill press's lever.
While at drill bits, slow rpm's will feel slower feeding but keep the drill bits edge sharp longer and the generated chips thicker, higher rpm's will feel like feeding faster FOR A WHILE but quickly fry the drill bits leading edge and generate dust.
In dry hard eucalyptus I'd want a full chisel chain on an old school slow rpm chainsaw - 090G for example.
I must point out that I have never encountered eucalyptus, but I work with hard metal on a daily basis - the physics are the same and one can't go against physics.
What top plate angle are you running? back it off to 25-20 degrees on chisel if it's really hard timber.
What chain are you running just Oregon? It's too soft of a chain in my experience get Stihl chain it holds an edge way longer.
Cleaning out the gullet as you have in above pics don't do it the timber is too hard to be packing with chips. Not doing it makes the chain smoother cutting in hard hardwood in my experience.
Do you own any saws with balls and not just revs and chain speed if so run Stihl .404 and 7pin. 3/8 is fine it just dulls faster.
Chisel is very good in clean wood semi chisel if timber is contaminated with dirt/ sand. Oh I will add If running RS give the file 10 down.
And regardless of what the internet says round filed is more than adequate.
Open up the muffler and it will lift its game a lot . Mine will pull a 42 bar in gum reasonably comfortably. Not really the best thing though going into hardwood with that size bar as it creates a lot of heat and wear and works the saw hard . 395s opened up a bit ive found are very much capable of doing this tho@davidwyby, I’m finding my stock 395 is at its comfort limit pulling a 32” 46RM in oak with a 7 pin sprocket. Well sharpened 404 semi chisel cuts plenty quick for me, and stays sharp longer in my limited personal experience. I would say that pile of petrified logs you have is a perfectly justifiable excuse to acquire a 120cc saw
Bucked a few large-ish blue oak logs with my 661r today running a 32” 36RSLFK loop and was reminded how much more chatter skip chain produces in hardwood. Also how much quicker 3/8 dulls.
The 395 should be plenty enough saw I wouldn't bother with a 3120 myself unless you plan on running longer bars in .404 or milling.
When dry I still use around 0.040 but that's in 404 really ever use 38 as the wood usually has some ant *s-wordup the guts but if you don't have a really good feel for what your saw is doing yes I would stay a bit conservative but not too much as the slower cutting will create a lot more heat .
Nope not a carbide chain go hitting a nail that big with that and it will tear the carbide off the Cutters gets really expensive real quickThe raisman 404 semi chisel full comp 42”worked good...for the first half of the first cut. Then it chewed up a nail and spit it out. Good size nail, almost a small spike. Didn’t destroy the chain, just dulled it. I think I need a few more loops of it and an electric sharpener...or carbide chain.View attachment 296477
Many of the dry woods on your property in this thread are about the densest I've seen in USA wood just visually looking through videos and stuff. Very similar to what we deal with here, lots of fine dust with a fresh chain, lots of growth rings per inch. Seriously you don't see wood like that much in the states.
next challenge is figuring out how to sharpen to cut Aleppo pine well. I think it’s actually the most difficult to cut wood I have here. I’m thinking square ground might be the ticket. I need to mod my 32” Stihl bar to fit my hooskies and try some Stihl square I got.