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Champion log splitter engine

krag

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I've been splitting a lot of firewood with this "27 ton" log splitter.

The engine is a Honda style knock off-- 224cc Champion single-cylinder OHV engine, which features a cast-iron sleeve, a 0.9-gallon fuel tank, 0.6-quart oil capacity. https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/92750-1-27-ton-log-splitter/

I was running it today, doing a log of huge wheels of ash, so used the vertical option.

The engine started running like it was running out of fuel and was dying on me. It has done this before. Probably overheating. Is this a result of going vertical with splitting?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

krag

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I was going to pull the spark plug but they make it hard to do that without pulling wires out of rubber sleeves; same thing with the air cleaner, the way they have it set up, very hard to open up without disturbing connectors.

Of course you want an engine to shut off rather than overheat. I switched to premium gas, not sure if that makes any difference.
 

Duce

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Are you trying to spoof us?
 

Duce

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Why would running vertical have anything to do with engine, unless you have hose pinched and loading pump, stalling engine. Can not change spark plug? Premium gas makes a Honda small engine run better? Sounds more like carb issue, oil shut off switch failing, clogged air filter, kill switch?
 

Junkyard

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Did you get some bad gas? Does the carb have a drain plug on the bowl? See if you get some water out. Also, some of those engines have a sensor that kills them when the crankcase is overfilled, mainly to keep it from running when fuel is left on for a long time and it leaks into the motor. Check oil level, see if there’s water in the fuel, if it’s got a fuel filter maybe look at that, perhaps the fuel shutoff got bumped or is fubar?
 

krag

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I'll check those out; it did the same thing last summer but have run it more or less weekly for long periods without this problem; shuts itself off and then is hard to start, pull cord and get kickback on recoil; have to wait for it to cool down. Probably on this job jostling it around with the vertical to horizontal switchover triggered something.
 

WillG

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I'd toss a new plug in it if it has a Torch brand plug in it. I've seen the torch plugs cause a lot of problems. Should be an ngk bpr6es

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krag

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I'd toss a new plug in it if it has a Torch brand plug in it. I've seen the torch plugs cause a lot of problems. Should be an ngk bpr6es

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I would but these newfangled engines are hard to do that with; I reached for the cowl going into the plug and it did not come out with a usual wiggle and pull and I did not want to damage it.

The engine ran for hours today without problems. When it gets serviced by someone who knows how to do that with these units I'll ask him to address this and other standard service issues. The hydraulic hoses seem to be "weeping", but not leaking much. It could be that the 27 ton unit is not designed for commercial work.
 

JB-PlantHeirloom

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I would but these newfangled engines are hard to do that with; I reached for the cowl going into the plug and it did not come out with a usual wiggle and pull and I did not want to damage it.

The engine ran for hours today without problems. When it gets serviced by someone who knows how to do that with these units I'll ask him to address this and other standard service issues. The hydraulic hoses seem to be "weeping", but not leaking much. It could be that the 27 ton unit is not designed for commercial work.

On some models of splitters there is a cable that kicks down the engine idle when the slide hits a lever it on the return stroke, because you do not need 3600 RPMs and maximum pressure and maximum GPM to return the wedge, even if a 300# round is stuck to the wedge and is going to hit the stripper. When you flip vertical, this cable may be getting pinched and pulled, or the lever jammed on the first return stroke, there by setting your idle to much less then 3600 RPMs. Thus stalling out the engine and probably running it rich.

On my Northern Tools 37 ton, I think (have not owned it for 5+ years) the cable was on the opposite side of the level controls.
 

huskihl

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On every Honda I’ve had, the high-speed jet inside the carburetor starts to corrode shut after five or six years used with ethanol fuel. A good dose of seafoam fixes it if you let it sit for a while. Mine sat for a month with it in it and it’s run like new ever since. But I didn’t try it sooner than that. A week or two might be just as good. I realize yours isn’t a Honda, but if it’s a clone, the parts inside are probably similar
 

krag

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Yesterday I had the same problem. I called a knowledgeable friend who thought that it cutting out may have been due to trailering it a long distance, dirt, etc. getting stirred up in the carb..

I disconnected the breather rubber hose from the air filter to the gas tank, no more problems. This unit was just serviced. I don't think it was clogged. Anyone have thoughts on what it could be?
 

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Many small 2 and 4 cycle engines that use a sediment bowl have a shut off switch for the gas. I believe it is so when the equipment bumps up and down when hitting a bump (no shock absorbers and usually no springs) the float inside the sediment bowl, when it bounces, does not let excess fuel into the carb., since it is many times gravity feed. Which then would find the easy way out, the crank case or air filter. Since the hose probably spews fumes between the air filter and carb, I would say your air filter is clogged or your carb is too rich (runs with more air).

I would hook the hose back up and try starting and running without the air filter, then see what happens when it is installed again. One solution to the wonderful Poulan/Ryobi chainsaws is taking a hole saw and drilling 1" holes into the air cleaner assembly so it can properly breath.
 

huskihl

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The tank vent to the air filter box could be creating a vacuum inside the tank not allowing fuel to get to the carb
 

ElevatorGuy

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On every Honda I’ve had, the high-speed jet inside the carburetor starts to corrode shut after five or six years used with ethanol fuel. A good dose of seafoam fixes it if you let it sit for a while. Mine sat for a month with it in it and it’s run like new ever since. But I didn’t try it sooner than that. A week or two might be just as good. I realize yours isn’t a Honda, but if it’s a clone, the parts inside are probably similar
I just ran a tank of fuel through my splitter last weekend that has a kohler 9.5 hp engine. It was surging a little at full throttle but ran fine with a touch of choke. I ran it dry, mixed a few ounces of seafoam with a fresh gallon of e free fuel and let that run out too. I didn’t even think to cut it off while running it to let it sit in it. I’ll do that this weekend.
 

huskihl

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I just ran a tank of fuel through my splitter last weekend that has a kohler 9.5 hp engine. It was surging a little at full throttle but ran fine with a touch of choke. I ran it dry, mixed a few ounces of seafoam with a fresh gallon of e free fuel and let that run out too. I didn’t even think to cut it off while running it to let it sit in it. I’ll do that this weekend.
Not recommending it, but it is what it is. I had about about 1” of fuel left in the tank and dumped in 3-4oz of Seafoam then ran it a couple minutes on half choke to get the Seafoam into the carb and then let it sit for awhile
 

Al Smith

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If it's a Honda styled engine some info first hand info .When we built the Honda engine plant at Anna Ohio we had to supply our own power with generators .We had two both Honda 8 HP .What happened several times after hours of trouble free operation the mufflers would clog up Other than that they were very dependable . Having said that attempting to trouble shoot a log splitter engine just like a chainsaw over the internet is a stab in the dark at best .I'll just say it's broken and I have no idea how to fix it .
 

merc_man

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My splitter is a champion 22 ton as well.
My first suggestion is put a name brand plug in it. The fuel tank vent hose unhook and put a small fuel line on with a echo style vent. I have had the engine flood with gas from the vent line. Saves having to change oil due to filling crank case with gas.
I also just crack the fuel cap just a bit to make sure it is breathing propper with the echo vent.


My BIL has the same splitter as me and had the same problems.

Hope this helps

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