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Log splitter engine oil leak

krag

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I noticed my Champion log splitter was leaking oil, drip, drip, drip. I had been using the Lucas oil stop leak product, probably put in around 20 oz into the crankcase between the last job in December and this one. I put the top to a tote unit under it. It has the engine shut off when the oil gets too low. Is this safe to run like this as I still have around 30% of a splitting job to do with big oak wheels?DSCF2508.JPGDSCF2509.JPG
 

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MemphisMechanic

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You have some sort of dipstick yes? (Often on the inside of the fill plug on small engines.)

Keeo it topped off, and you’ll be fine.
 

krag

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You have some sort of dipstick yes? (Often on the inside of the fill plug on small engines.)

Keeo it topped off, and you’ll be fine.
Just the yellow plastic fill plugs. No dipstick on these.
 

stihl here

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Can you not tell exactly where it's coming from?
Are you sure it's the engine and not the hydraulic system?
 

AVB

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To verify if engine oil or hydraulic install 1/4 oz of UV dye in the engine oil. Run the engine for 15 minutes. Then when you see the oil leak scan with UV light to see where the leak is. If it is the engine the UV dye will show where the main leak is at.

Here I use AutoPro 374CS dye with a 365nm light. It is to note the UV light must match the UV dye spec.
 

5155

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Another vote for the Predator engine.
The chick at HF told me they do not get returned.

If determined to fix yours, look at the bottom crank seal is my guess on those. That is where the mtd riders leak.
 

krag

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I just spoke with Champion technical support which is always friendly and helpful on various issues connected to their equipment.

They said that the oil does not matter much, 10w 30 or 30 sae are ok as well as Lucas oil, just change the oil so it is not dirty, etc.. They said that pulling off the engine cover and using Permatex or similar gasket maker would actually be better than using one of their products. He also said they get reports after 5 years or so of similar problems.
 

Loony661

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Don’t add too much of the Lucas Stop Leak - it can cause issues with the small engines like that, that rely on splash lubrication. It thickens the oil to the point (if too much is used) to creep into the bearing journals at the rod and crank. Best to just change oil completely. After all, that’s cheap.
 

Al Smith

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Fact of the matter engines and hydraulic systens will in time leak some oil .You can repair it or deal with it .In my case unless it's a bad leak I deal with it .Usually all that magic leak stop does is soften up a stiff seal ,might work for a time but not actually cure the problem .That pic of the hydraulic line on the pump with a hose clamp might be the problem .Those stainless steel worm clamps because of the vibration with time will cut right through the hose .If so just cut the end of the hose and reclamp it .
 
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Shane¹

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Is it a motor oil leak or hydraulic oil leak? Looks like motor oil on the pan. Stop leak does not actually fix leaks usually just causes bigger more expensive issues. More than likely it is either leaking from the back crank seal or the back cover both easy fixes just make sure everything is back in the right place before putting the back cover back on if that's what's leaking.
 

RCBS

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Side case gasket or output shaft seal my guess. Both are ridiculously easy to repair once you get that pump out of the way and some parts.
 

krag

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I looked at it after finishing the job today after dark with my brother. I spoke to Champion earlier, what is involved besides removing the 12 mm bolts that hold the valve cover on the engine?
 

Shane¹

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Did you figure out where the oil is leaking?
 

beaglebriar

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I looked at it after finishing the job today after dark with my brother. I spoke to Champion earlier, what is involved besides removing the 12 mm bolts that hold the valve cover on the engine?
Is it leaking from the valve cover? Pics??
 

beaglebriar

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Yes, that needs to be pulled, cleaned up and gasket maker like Permatex used.
Assuming it's a Honda clone engine. I've made new valve cover gaskets for them from cork gasket material. I'm not a fan of permatex for that kind of stuff but it will probably work. The existing gasket is already oil saturated so permatex probably won't stick.
 

krag

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I spoke with Champion again and ordered a crankcase seal and a shaft seal as it is leaking out the side on the pto end, not the top. For some reason I got confused that it was a head gasket leak which is on top. They have replacement engines on these for around $250 delivered, but mine is running fine. They also sent me one or two free things as well and a video, and info on valve adjustment. A mechanic did an annual tune up on it not sure if he did that.
 
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