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Terry Hennessy

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We have a few large pines on our hunting land close to camp. We've been considering building a pole barn, or something like it, and I love the idea of doing it soup to nuts with trees from our land.
I like the looks of those Alaskan mills, and have seen some videos on them. Have not seen the porta-mill yet, though I will look for them. Not sure how much saw you need for this type of thing, that's another consideration.
Re: Portamill, check Northerntool.com, and youtube videos.
Saw size= 55cc will work w/ 12-14" logs, 60-75cc better, 85-95 best, but $$ really go up w/ 90-120cc, so a lot of it depends on available log size. Bigger logs = longer bars= bigger saws

I see we have a Portamill USER here, (??) I believe his logs exceed the 15" limit, (which I have always questioned? because I don't own one...) Why could you not use a portamill to half a larger log (16-28" log?) w/ a 24"-28" bar? MY strong suspicion is a Portamill would be much easier than an Alaskan? I.e. STANDING VERSUS KNEELING ( I am a logosol M8 owner, and an old man w/ bad back, LOL) :)
 

junkman

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The bigger logs i have to freehand cut off some of the side the saw is on,and the dogs do not flip up,thosr bigger ones are heavy enough they dont move,i think the widest i have cut is 28 inch log using a 32 inch bar
 

junkman

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So what size logs and cants, powerhead and bar size are you running thru that Portamill? I (suspect?) larger than the stated 15" max? or is it optical illusion? (But I do see that forklift, LOL)
I use a ported ms660 ,i broke the crank once with that saw,and usef a ported ms460 till i got it back,i only mill softwoods though
 

Steve

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I have two grandberg mills. The nice thing about the csm is the mobility. I have milled quite a few boards and such. The csm is so easy your mom can use it. The most interesting thing I have hit was this bullet I sliced in half.WP_20150321_11_51_49_Pro.jpg WP_20150307_13_16_33_Pro.jpg WP_20141221_15_57_07_Pro.jpg
 

madhatte

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Are those rails easy to set up ? Looks a lot easer than a ladder to start with

They're not too bad. They're short (12' I think) so longer rips take some secondary setup, and the height adjustment screws walk all over the place, but they are light and easy to rig up.
 

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Am I crazy to want to use an Alaskan Mill with a 262XP 20" bar ?? I am looking at doing some cedar (shouldn't be a problem) but have some beech and sugar maple I wanted to tie into. 12" to 16" timber. Not full timing it, just wanted some boards for a remote deer blind I am building. Feel free to tell me I am crazy. Only the truth.
 
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Terry Hennessy

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Am I crazy to want to use an Alaskan Mill with a 262XP 20" bar ?? I am looking at doing some cedar (shouldn't be a problem) but have some beech and sugar maple I wanted to tie into. 12" to 16" timber. Not full timing it, just wanted some boards for a remote deer blind I am building. Feel free to tell me I am crazy. Only the truth.
No, 262 w/ 12-16" logs and Alaskan is quite appropriate. Enjoy
 

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One more question that I failed to ask. I know there is a controversy on whether you should use a crosscut chain or a ripping chain. Any thoughts on what would be the best ???
I would love to just use the crosscut chain (3/8") I have, but would consider going to a ripping chain if that will better my experience. I don't care about the crosscut markings.
I am building a deer blind, not furniture. Thanks again
 

foragefarmer

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Am I crazy to want to use an Alaskan Mill with a 262XP 20" bar ?? I am looking at doing some cedar (shouldn't be a problem) but have some beech and sugar maple I wanted to tie into. 12" to 16" timber. Not full timing it, just wanted some boards for a remote deer blind I am building. Feel free to tell me I am crazy. Only the truth.

You might have a clearance problem with a 20" bar and the larger wood. I have a 24" bar I mill with and only get about 18" effective cutting width with it. YMMV
 
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