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Chain grinding and filing thread

Wolverine

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I use an old junk bar to hold the chain flat and file them with a 3/4" file. I'll C-clamp the bar to the table to anchor it down.
View attachment 131036
Would have never thought about it being done that way. I use the small sanding drum on my dremel. Usually a small stone for the straps, then flappy wheels for a smooth finish.
IMG_0761.JPG
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Wow you have some patience sir.
It's a 105DL loop and it took about an hour.
Would have never thought about it being done that way. I use the small sanding drum on my dremel. Usually a small stone for the straps, then flappy wheels for a smooth finish.
View attachment 131058
I have a good stone wheel set up for my flex shaft, but I can get rivets done faster and cleaner with a flat file.
 

srcarr52

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With the scarr upgrade on the rs2 i can get 10-15 degree cutters for milling ,has a little more adjustment over the stock slides .

You can get even less top angle than that but you’d probably need to dress the stone different. 10 is pretty decent for killing though.
 

Wilhelm

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Dolmar 099 chisel loop, round filed - my first ever attempt of grinding the rivet heads, only one side so far but will do the other side as well.
Work chain!

Factory stock:
DSC08075.JPG

Ground:
DSC08076.JPG

After bucking mostly fresh oak logs worth a tank full of fuel:
DSC08079.JPG

I took of about 0.5mm of width grinding the one rivet head side:
DSC08069.JPG DSC08071.JPG
 

smokey7

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I can see grinding/filing the rivits on a race chain but i fear that it would weaken the chain tok much on a work chain for my comfort. Ive broke a few chains witgh much less done to them. Nice work to all that's doing all this special stuff to chains. I will try some of it and leave some of it to the pros. Still want to try a square chain some day
 

Wilhelm

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Worth the effort?

Philbert
I can not see the the benefit unless the cutters were stoned to reduce drag .Stock cutters should be wider than the rivots .
I'm just trying something new to me, simply experimenting.

I never broke a Dolmar/Oregon loop although I wear them out till there are no teeth left - they are built really strong and I appreciate that.

Once the chains teeth are filed back close to the witness mark the generated kerf gets very narrow and one easily pinches the bar.
The stock rivet heads show a lot of drag marks, so I thought I'll try thinning them a little.
THIS IS NOT A RACE CHAIN, it's a regular work chain and I used it for three full tanks of fuel today, even bucked a rather large oak log with my 20" bar fully buried.
DSC08089.JPG

I'm just playing and having fun guys , I'm not out to win a race! ;)
 

Armbru84

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Be interesting to hear everyone’s order of business making fast chains. I’m in the habit of clipping heals and rakers first. Just reminded myself why. File slipped off the raker, dammit.
View attachment 130841

Then I do chassis & rivets saving the cutting edge for next to last. Last being stoning. Then test-n-tune.

Same for me.
 

Skeans1

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I'm just trying something new to me, simply experimenting.

I never broke a Dolmar/Oregon loop although I wear them out till there are no teeth left - they are built really strong and I appreciate that.

Once the chains teeth are filed back close to the witness mark the generated kerf gets very narrow and one easily pinches the bar.
The stock rivet heads show a lot of drag marks, so I thought I'll try thinning them a little.
THIS IS NOT A RACE CHAIN, it's a regular work chain and I used it for three full tanks of fuel today, even bucked a rather large oak log with my 20" bar fully buried.
View attachment 131797

I'm just playing and having fun guys , I'm not out to win a race! ;)

Sounds like a good way to get hurt or find out real quick what chain shot is, if a harvester chain from 20’ can shoot through roughly 1/2” AR2 windows what’s a driver going to do to you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

junkman

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I'm just trying something new to me, simply experimenting.

I never broke a Dolmar/Oregon loop although I wear them out till there are no teeth left - they are built really strong and I appreciate that.

Once the chains teeth are filed back close to the witness mark the generated kerf gets very narrow and one easily pinches the bar.
The stock rivet heads show a lot of drag marks, so I thought I'll try thinning them a little.
THIS IS NOT A RACE CHAIN, it's a regular work chain and I used it for three full tanks of fuel today, even bucked a rather large oak log with my 20" bar fully buried.
View attachment 131797

I'm just playing and having fun guys , I'm not out to win a race! ;)
I think it's great you are trying new things ,thats how we learn.
 

junkman

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Sounds like a good way to get hurt or find out real quick what chain shot is, if a harvester chain from 20’ can shoot through roughly 1/2” AR2 windows what’s a driver going to do to you?


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Is chain shot the scars i see around guys forearms from when broke chains wrap around them ?
 
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