Case splitting using heat

[mdavlee]

I like to seat the bearings in the case first, but if that works for ya then carry on.

I've done it both ways. You can get the bearings on the crank with minimal side pressure warming them up and then if you need a little help use a deep well socket on the inner race. Just depends on what kind of mood I'm in. Case always gets baked in the oven.

 

[Deets066]

How do you know you have the bearings in the correct location when you put em on the crank first?

 

[jmssaws]

How do you know you have the bearings in the correct location when you put em on the crank first?

You mean how far on the crank?
That's why I put them in the case

 

[Deets066]

You mean how far on the crank?
That's why I put them in the case

So do I, others put em on the crank

 

[angelo c]

If your gonna try the celophane , make sure you place it just beyond the groove yet not where the seal will remain over it. It will be tough to peel off when under the seal. Make sure you remove the celo and give the crank a cleaning. Also "warm" seals will slide on easier. Sometimes we are working in sheds/ garages that are cold. Everything gets cold in them. The correct Stihl seal instal "sockets" are cheap and worth the price of a few farked up seals...

 

[VinceGU05]

Let them go on as far as they can.
Once all together and cooled down I get the crank a good hard smack from both sides and she's all good. Done them all like that besides the last couple which was the bearings in housings first method. Found it a bit easier this way.

 

[mdavlee]

How do you know you have the bearings in the correct location when you put em on the crank first?

Put the flywheel side in first. It seats into the case. When the case is put together the other one can't be too far out then.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

How do you know you have the bearings in the correct location when you put em on the crank first?

Good question as on the 661 Stihl recommend leaving the oil pump in as a stop for the bearing on the clutch side

 

[Stihl working Hard]

If your gonna try the celophane , make sure you place it just beyond the groove yet not where the seal will remain over it. It will be tough to peel off when under the seal. Make sure you remove the celo and give the crank a cleaning. Also "warm" seals will slide on easier. Sometimes we are working in sheds/ garages that are cold. Everything gets cold in them. The correct Stihl seal instal "sockets" are cheap and worth the price of a few farked up seals...

I haven't used or seen the seal instal sockets in action how does it hold the seal open to slide over the groove

 

[mdavlee]

Good question as on the 661 Stihl recommend leaving the oil pump in as a stop for the bearing on the clutch side

On a 385 you have to do that as well or put it on the crank first. With the integral seal I think some are better to put on the crank first and then slide that side of the case on. With it nice and warm it will slide on by hand anyway.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

On a 385 you have to do that as well or put it on the crank first. With the integral seal I think some are better to put on the crank first and then slide that side of the case on. With it nice and warm it will slide on by hand anyway.

Point taken Do you think the seal sockets are worth the money asked or do you feel the conventional ways are ok

 

[mdavlee]

Point taken Do you think the seal sockets are worth the money asked or do you feel the conventional ways are ok

I've only got one for the 1128 series. It works good but I've not had a problem putting them in with a socket either.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

I've only got one for the 1128 series. It works good but I've not had a problem putting them in with a socket either.

I have always used a tube socket the only issue I come across with and am very particular about getting the seal over the groove but it's always a pai in the a@@

 

[mdavlee]

Some of them are a pain.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

Some of them are a pain.

Ain't that the truth i hate the 028 flywheel side seal I have big hands in a small gap

 

[angelo c]

Point taken Do you think the seal sockets are worth the money asked or do you feel the conventional ways are ok

depends on the series. on a 200t. definitely. IMO critical because the seals are so damn expensive.

 

[Al Smith]

I use the plastic tubes that end mills,carbide cutters etc come in for the seals .No problem finding them because I work in an automotive factory .

The way they install engine seals in a factory is with a tapered expander made of metal,then a robot installs the seal .Same way they did it when it was installed my hand .You could probably make one if you were handy on a lathe .Might not be a bad idea if you did 100 saws a year which I doubt too many do .

On the 020/200t ,that by far in my opinion is the most user friendly saw Stihl ever made to work on .Slip fit bearings etc .I can have one down to the bones in less than 20 minutes .

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

To get seals over steps in the crank, I use electrical tape and 2-stroke oil. The tape can peel right out once the seal is over the crank lip. Seems simple, but it really helps the process.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I haven't done seals on a chainsaw, but for motorcycles forks they have plastic "bullets" or cones that fit over the end of the tube to keep the seals lip from being cut on the sharp edge.

I used a ziplock bag, saran wrap or electrical tape on the end with a bit of suspension fluid. If I was doing them often, I'd invest in that tool.

 

[Tor R]

I use a heat gun for splitting and a toaster oven for assembly. I use to freeze the crank but don't anymore.
I like to put the bearing in the case so it heat soaks.

its the way I split and put together my cranks also.
The only time I freeze the crank and mount PTO bearing on the crank is on 242/346/550. I use crank mounting tool if it's a saw with stuffer, I dont like to much heat on them.
All other Husky models is put together with the oven principe