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Case splitting using heat

Stihl working Hard

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I use a heat gun for splitting and a toaster oven for assembly. I use to freeze the crank but don't anymore.
I like to put the bearing in the case so it heat soaks.
so for assembley you heat the cases with the bearings in then put the crank in at room temperature is that correct
 

Stihl working Hard

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I use a heat gun for splitting and a toaster oven for assembly. I use to freeze the crank but don't anymore.
I like to put the bearing in the case so it heat soaks.
What is the downside to putting the crank in the freezer then installing it back into hot bearings in pre heated cases
 

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It takes time to freeze the crank for minimal benefit
If it won't go on with the crank at room temp there is something wrong of your case/ bearing is not hot enough
Awesome Tony thanks up until now I used to heat the cases with the bearings in then freeze the crank for a couple of hours then assemble that's the beauty in this thread Iam continually evolving with my saw rebuilding methods thanks again awesome thread:headbang:
 

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Awesome Tony thanks up until now I used to heat the cases with the bearings in then freeze the crank for a couple of hours then assemble that's the beauty in this thread Iam continually evolving with my saw rebuilding methods thanks again awesome thread:headbang:
Yeah it's just time consuming and is not required.

I have a different 038 to put together but don't have bearings yet. Will get them leter this week
 

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Yeah it's just time consuming and is not required.

I have a different 038 to put together but don't have bearings yet. Will get them leter this week
Was also wondering what you use to slide the seal over the flywheel side of the crank to stop the seal catching the groove and tearing the seal or pulling out the spring.I have always used a piece of rolled up microfish was wondering on a new technique bar using a oem seal installer
 

angelo c

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Was also wondering what you use to slide the seal over the flywheel side of the crank to stop the seal catching the groove and tearing the seal or pulling out the spring.I have always used a piece of rolled up microfish was wondering on a new technique bar using a oem seal installer

Celophane and 2 stroke oil
 

Brewz

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Was also wondering what you use to slide the seal over the flywheel side of the crank to stop the seal catching the groove and tearing the seal or pulling out the spring.I have always used a piece of rolled up microfish was wondering on a new technique bar using a oem seal installer
This is something I struggle with also.
Will give the cellophane and oil a go for sure
 

jmssaws

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so for assembley you heat the cases with the bearings in then put the crank in at room temperature is that correct
I heat the cases in a oven without the bearings.
Once hot I put room temperature bearings in the hot case and let the bearing soak for a few minutes then put the room temperature crank in.

I wear a pair of welding gloves and put it together with my hands,if you can't put it together with your hands you aren't getting it hot enough.

I use a toaster oven at 300 degrees for 10 min or so and there's no reason to freeze the crank.
 

jmssaws

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90% of the time the flywheel side seal is damaged from being drove in crooked

I get several saws that people have rebuilt and couldn't get lined out so they give up and send it to me, 99.9% of the time the new flywheel seal is the problem.
If it gets just a little crooked it will bend the lip and leak. I've ruined several myself. See them that aren't set deep enough and the flywheel eats it too.
 
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