Wonkydonkey
Plastic member
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- May 14, 2017
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Good poast, 
Depends on size of engine and port shape. Wider ports need less duration.
For 90cc saws I like Intake in the 158-164 area, Exhaust around 156-160, Transfers somewhere near 112-120.
On the other end. For 25cc I like less intake (136-142), less exhaust (144-150) and similar transfer (110-116).
Some of the new Stratos have strange transfer durations and it’s important to note the cold air duration vs fuel mix duration on the intake side. The fresh air may open at the port at very different time than it feeds the transfers. For example I just timed a 550mk2 at fuel mix duration 148, Fresh air at intake 154, piston to transfer 140.
Figuring out what I want with those is specific to my changes and the individual model. Mostly I just leave them alone.
I feel Intake duration is the most significant for case pressure. Width doesn’t matter as much as timing because the real issue is piston position when the intake closes. The earlier the case is filled and the intake closes, the better. I like short intake duration and a wide port.
Transfer height effects pressure, but will still move nearly the same volume, maybe more at longer durations as rpms increase. In general, longer transfer durations seem beneficial regardless of effect on case pressure.
For exhaust a low roof (shorter duration) adds force to the down stroke and add a slight bump in pressure right before the transfers crack. That translates to higher transfer velocity, improved scavenging, and saw with some extra torque. I like shorter exhaust durations with very wide ports. But if there is too little duration the saw will just be a slow grinder. I try to set my exhaust at a happy balance. Usually with slightly more duration than stock.
Every model has its peculiarities. I probably go against my own habits 30% of the time.
…
Not sure why I wrote all that. I get carried away sometimes.
Another thought .A well known builder of hot saws especially reworked 3120 Husky's is of the opinion the fan blast helps the performance .Fact he was sent a new one to rework somebody had shaved the fan and sent it right back to him .Who am I to debate that with somebody who has forgotten more than I know or may ever know .
However based on that theory if the air box was tight and the fan blast was enough it could raise the air pressure going into the carb .In effect acting some what like a turbo .That's only a guess on my part .
They are stout. But the "old" versions will make more power after both are modified.
My buddy did that with his Yamaha Apex 4 stroke snowmobile.
He added some fan kit to the engine That goes to the intake.
Made 2 psi at 10,000 rpms.
I drove the sled. It has power.
The second one you mentioned just sounds scary, lol!I had an 800cc Polaris sled with an aftermarket whirligig that stuffed more air in it, at only 7psi worth… it had powa!
Now I have a KTM 450sxf snowbike with a Garret GT20 spiny thing under the seat. It makes 110hp somehow.
I had an 800cc Polaris sled with an aftermarket whirligig that stuffed more air in it, at only 7psi worth… it had powa!
Now I have a KTM 450sxf snowbike with a Garret GT20 spiny thing under the seat. It makes 110hp somehow.
The second one you mentioned just sounds scary, lol!
How much case compression is that getting?I had an 800cc Polaris sled with an aftermarket whirligig that stuffed more air in it, at only 7psi worth… it had powa!
Now I have a KTM 450sxf snowbike with a Garret GT20 spiny thing under the seat. It makes 110hp somehow.
7 psi from a spinning thing? That’s awesome.
I need one on my 600...
Would you happen to know the name of said fiddle spinner?
Lots of talk about forced induction here, let’s think of other ways to add oxygen to the charge…nitrous and nitromethane come to mind. Would a turbocharger make more power on a saw?