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Can’t get C1 chain to cut

pbillyi69

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so you moved the new chain from one saw to another and it cut on one but not the other?
 

pbillyi69

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does the 670 have more power than the 266? it has been 35 years since i have ra
 

Woodslasher

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Carlton chains and I don't really get along, but give it way more hook. The Carlton chains I've gotten have tons of hook and they seem to love it. I'd like to see how wide/tapered the cutters are from a top view. If they are a consistent thickness the sides of the cutters might be dragging more. I'd definitely try clipping their heels too, especially if they aren't really tapered.
 

pbillyi69

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i have never liked carlton chain but they were bought out by blount just like oregon so i would think that both will become junk
 

davidwyby

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I juggled two bars and 3 chains (c1 and Oregon) around on the two saws and couldn’t replicate the issue.
 

huskihl

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NOW I have a real mystery, ha! I put the new loop on the 670 and it cut fine and smooth. I mean not great but ok, way better than on the 266…so now why???

Can’t really blame it on the husky screws falling out because they’re both almost the same saw. Lol.

What is C1?
 

davidwyby

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Can’t really blame it on the husky screws falling out because they’re both almost the same saw. Lol.

What is C1?

Yeah…these ole huskies are cool but the new saws outpace them so they sit too much and then when I go to use them it seems like there are always kinks to work out like an old truck. I might sell my 266s as well as my 630 and 670.

I dunno. Came in Total boxes. Says C1 on the DLs.
 

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Yeah…these ole huskies are cool but the new saws outpace them so they sit too much and then when I go to use them it seems like there are always kinks to work out like an old truck. I might sell my 266s as well as my 630 and 670.
That's kinda odd, my 272, 181, and 2100 have yet to give me grief from sitting and the same goes for my brother's 281 and 2101. Mebbe it's the desert temps coupled with sitting?
 

davidwyby

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That's kinda odd, my 272, 181, and 2100 have yet to give me grief from sitting and the same goes for my brother's 281 and 2101. Mebbe it's the desert temps coupled with sitting?
I’d say yes, I had trouble with that in the past, but now they stay in a climate controlled shop and if they sit, they get non ethanol fuel.

but I have some used ignitions that are weakish and I haven’t tested them all thoroughly, and just haven’t ever run them consistently enough to get the kinks to rear their heads…

@Stump Shot is the 5mm spark jump the end all test? Cuz swapping them around and trying to feel which ones run best sucks.

I tell you what, my favorite saw on the low Maint, reliability scale is my 2159. I’m gonna like having two. Easy to tune and rarely if ever needs it. The Dolmar 6100 is right there too except for being a bit of a pain to tune with the limited coil. I don’t take it up and down the hill any more. 2166 is close but has a weird inconsistent idle thing, I need to carb kit it. 395 is solid, but don’t use it as much because it’s heavy. 3120 is close but has the inconsistent 4 stroke rpm I need to get back to. But it’s an old saw that’s been around the block. You’ll have to run it sometime. It and lately the 7900 impress me the most with their power(torque), but of course the 395 is right up there too. Heck the little 2159 has been pulling an 8 pin lately…angry little beaver….
 
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Maintenance Chief

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Bar rails can be a major factor in how a chain will cut also, a little burr or lop sided rail has a huge impact on how that chain tracks through the cut.
I keep 4-6 saws in the shed just for regular firewood duty that get used anywhere between teens and 100° . Besides using a quality carb kit I think the best thing I did was start adding marine grade Stabil to the fuel, I get very consistent tune and running between 3 different brands . Sometimes I go a couple of months without firing one up and don't get any weird issues with them like I used to.
 

davidwyby

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I think it might have been something weird with a bar/sprocket/saw/chain combination. I’m sure it will come up again when I need it. What was weird is it did it twice on the low raker chain and then the new one and then disappeared. The last time I used that chain was on one of these saws but I don’t remember which or which bar and I fought it in the field until I finally gave up and put an oregon on, problem solved…should have kept better notes.
 

Stump Shot

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@Stump Shot is the 5mm spark jump the end all test? Cuz swapping them around and trying to feel which ones run best sucks.

Yes and no depending on how you are looking at the issue.
If it won't jump a 5mm gap, OR is not a bright blue color(white/pink/orange or light pale blue) making an audible snap, it's junk.
There are other tests, it could be ran on a Merc-O-Tronic 79 tester and see if it pass/fails.
Rotary makes a simple two colored neon tester that works pretty good, otherwise most all other testers are 5mm.
Note on 266/670 two piece coils, when one goes out(original) the other should be replaced at the same time as it will fail shortly after.
Don't waste your time with Chinese coils even if they spark(weak) they won't for very long. There were some out for a while made by Magnetron in South America, these were good units. Otherwise pay the man at the Husqvarna counter what he wants and be done with it.
I have a pile of old 2 piece 61/266/630/670 coils and triggers that are junk. Even when resurrecting an old saw they just seem to fade out and quit having not given much service. Just seems the age has caught up with them.
They are not like 281/288xp type 2 piece setup, those seem to go on near forever it seems like and rarely go bad.
Another note, if when replacing coil and trigger nothing seems to work, check the flywheel by replacing with another. I've had two 266 flywheels go bad and make me kinda crazy trying to figure out what was going on. Just what happened to them I couldn't say. I've heard the magnets can be reversed possibly if it receives a hard blow to it.
 
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