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Bearing Replacement Idea

67L36Driver

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Friend uses the propane tank off the fork truck at work. Prop the bearing on the fence and open the valve on the tank. Wayyyyyy out in the back of the parking lot. And, no smoking.

Yikes!
 

angelo c

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Friend uses the propane tank off the fork truck at work. Prop the bearing on the fence and open the valve on the tank. Wayyyyyy out in the back of the parking lot. And, no smoking.

Yikes!

wonder if/what CO2 would do...cheaper and easily available...( soda fountain fuel)
 

panteliss

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The magnesium Mg have melting point at 650 celsius or 12oo fahrenheit

SO temperatures of 200, 300, 400 celsius WILL NOT DAMAGE IT
 

panteliss

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During me recent frustrations with my Husky 288 rebuild, I ran into the exact same thing. Kinda 'forced' me to go consult the Service Manual. I had always heated cases to 300 F .... the SM said to heat them to 300 .... Centigrade (about 400 F).

Made all the difference in the world ... bearings literally dropped in.

300 celsius are 572 fahrenheit not 400
 

Hoggwood

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A cooling bath is also a very effective and quick way to cool/shrink. A slurry of dry ice and ethanol or acetone will stabilize at around -70 and -80 Celcius respectively. Used it in the lab many times.

Although I have not used it in this application, it ought to reduce the size of bearings and cranks quickly if they are placed into the bath.

Curious also, if it may be used in helping introduce a solvent type penetrant more effectively into stuck pistons etc. For example, warming the cylinder externally while pouring the super-cooled penetrant into the spark plug hole. Large temperature differential between cylinder and top of piston might create enough room in situations where simple aerosol penetrants are not enough to "break free" the surface tension.

Check local supermarkets that carry fresh seafood. Sometimes overnight shipments contain dry ice and can be had for free if you ask.

Just thinking out loud.
 
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mdavlee

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Grocery store near me sells dry ice. Pretty cheap really. I heat case halves to 350° F in the big oven. Then as soon as the bearings are in put a heat gun on them to warm the bearing up.
 

Magic_Man

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Grocery store near me sells dry ice. Pretty cheap really. I heat case halves to 350° F in the big oven. Then as soon as the bearings are in put a heat gun on them to warm the bearing up.
Smart, so you heat the case half, drop in the bearing, then use the residual heat in the case plus a heat gun to heat the bearing and drop in the crank.
 

Duce

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Asked local Husqvarna tech how he puts case halves together. Showed me his process and it works. Used a vise to set bearing on and taps crank on with a flat punch with dimple, goes on easier than I thought. Holds crank, clutch side up first (in vice) and heats case with map gas, slides right on, hits it with air and turns it over. Sets gasket on case, heats flywheel side case and drops on, hits it with air. Installs bolts, trims gasket and is done. I have used this method several times and works well. No longer makes my wife mad, used oven and freezer before that.
 

panteliss

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I dont understand why must use oven you just need the heat to the position that the bearings must go so just a heat gun or a map gas will finish the job
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Ran across these recently on YouTube by Tree Monkey..., evidently from somewhere here at OPE? Searched here and couldn't locate them. Was hoping to find out if the oil he used was anything special or just clean motor oil.

Guess my main question is why are folks so hell bent on installing bearings in the cases instead of on the crank in the first place..., at least in most situations. I realize some installations use the oil pump on the PTO side to determine the desired 'depth' in the case bore, but if it's on the crank correctly in the first place the oil pump should bolt right up anyway.

Just doesn't seem like it could get much easier than this regardless of one's method of heating the halves for final assembly. Looks to me like it takes all of about five minutes.


 
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