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Bar oil

Al Smith

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I find it amazing that anybody would pay 32 bucks a gallon for bar oil .Then again I've been shocked at how many would pay 16 a quart for designer country club rated canned fuel .I've got an idea some of those replies are just for the amusement purposes which are indeed laugh inducing .
 

Bjorn

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Screenshot_20240624_163130_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

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blades

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Was in Menards fri 6.99 on the shelf sticker
 

Firewood Hoarder

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One of my cnc turning centers (fancy computer controlled lathe) at work has a waylube catch container. I have to empty it about once every two weeks. On a few occasions, I strained that "used" oil through a coffee filter and run it as bar and chain oil. More trouble than it was worth, really, but I was pinching pennies at that point in time
 

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Way lube makes good bar oil but you will have a heart attack at its cost. Makes that super pricey non dino stuff look cheap.

It was already through a machine once, so it was free in my situation. Far, far cheaper to buy dedicated bar oil
 

blades

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During the real warm months I add some way oil to the various bar oils as most seem to be too thin. My dolmars are stingy on oil to start with even wide open, and I always open up the ports on the bars as well. My Stilh 084 has auto oil feed + a manulal plunger. But I don't use that beast all that much. Most of time it wears a 42" bar with a 60" once in awhile in 404 x.063.
Due to 3/8 x.050 issues , various makes of chains, I am playing with 3/8 x .058 and .063 this summer on the Dolmars.
 

EFSM

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I am playing with 3/8 x .058
I personally don't see the point of 058 chain. At least with Oregon chain, the rivet width is the same as 050, but the bar rail is narrower because of a wider groove.
 

Wilhelm

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WTF is "bar oil"!?

Stupid crap like this?
IMG_20240513_155831.jpg

It is true!
Repeat a lie often enough and people will believe it unconditionally!
Good thing I am me, not people.

This B&C oil hoax amazes me whenever I see it brung up.
 

Bjorn

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This is a very good, mineral oil. I usually bye the thicker VG 150 oil.20240703_173136.jpg
 

jblnut

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I'm still running my swill pail deluxe mix of random new atf, engine oil, and some gear oil all sloshed together. When that fails I have 6 gallons of tractor hydraulic fluid, and when that's gone I'll have to see about buying some real bar oil. In the meantime, my cheapazz stuff works just fine.
I have a 5gal pail that I drain all my oil jugs into and it gets any leftover oil and mystery oil I get in random lots at auctions. I add a gallon of actual "bar oil" in and fill the pail until it's full and start another one. I'll go through roughly 5 gallons of oil a year in the saws and generate roughly that much as well so it works great.

In the colder times (0-10F) I'll run ATF and 0-30w engine oil. Anything slippery works well.
 

blades

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If I could buy just the the tackifier agents I would go that route, but I haven't been able to as yet. Likely bar oil is just various oils left over from runs modified to apx 30w for summer use with tackifiers added. ( 10or 5 for winter ) The various veggie oils tend to harden up and plug up systems unless flushed after use in my experience. So I am not keen on those.
 

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If I could buy just the the tackifier agents I would go that route, but I haven't been able to as yet. Likely bar oil is just various oils left over from runs modified to apx 30w for summer use with tackifiers added. ( 10or 5 for winter ) The various veggie oils tend to harden up and plug up systems unless flushed after use in my experience. So I am not keen on those.

Could just add a partial bottle of the STP motor treatment of some of the Lucas oil treatment to utilize those tackifiers.
 
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