But are the transfer entrances well refined from the factory?
I have never seen a set of lowers that wouldn't benefit from case matching.
Have never ever seen case-side transfers that looked "well refined" they're always some "easy to CNC circle/oval" cut into the sides...couldn't agree more Re case-matching in fact just un-doing my saw after '1st round porting' the motoseal left behind made it clear it wasn't lining-up perfectly (I'm being anal but still it's nice to get things 100.0% when possible!)
Wish I did before&after benchmarking of just the porting of my lowers because instinct keeps telling me that
that, not the remedying of bad port-shape or even the muffler port-matching, instinct keeps saying the majority of gains came from just allowing 100% of the case-side transfer 'well'/basin to make its way into the cylinder, didn't use my calipers but looked like it was at least 1/4mm off-kilter (I'm totally OCD about my tightening-down procedure FWIW but always appreciate tips!! Actually uncertain how requisite it is for me to go back in after usage[how much?] and re-tighten the cylinder bolts, wanna avoid it (of course) if possible but will do so if it's considered normal/routine for a block sealed w/ gasket-maker and/or any block that was opened up!)
Even the smallest Stihl saws tend to be paired up with .063" gauge chains.
Changing B&C gauge alone will make no difference in saw performance.
Chain pitch is a completely different story though.
Cheers
That's funny/serendipitous because just yesterday-morning I was working w/ someone I rarely work with and he had good but
small Stihl stuff and I couldn't help him on chains on either because both were .043's (and am guessing quarter pitch, was a polesaw and an older 193t) But yeah 63 gauge seems worthwhile
at some point of length (and abuse-level!), for my purpose I was gonna stick to 0.050 because this
is for a saw that it will NOT reside on very often, this B&C set will sit un-used most of the time, it's a longer bar than the powerhead wants that I'm getting before I can get a g660 or find a salvageable 394 or something, so for right now it will probably get used like once or twice a week, as my powerhead won't be able to pull it with much authority!!
That said, as much as I want to just rush and order right now* after reading your post, I'm unsure if you get my specific concern Re
changing a particular saw from 0.050" setups (bar-and-chain both at 50 gauge) to 0.058" setups
and then back, I don't even want the added heft of the 58gauge on my 'daily driver' bar and chain setup for this saw, the 58 gauge
does give me more confidence on a longer (28"+) bar's integrity especially if buying less-than-perfect (am not getting a Sugihara this time around
) but I just can't help but think
my sprocket will wear funny, maybe even be more prone to throwing chains off-track, if I'm swapping what the sprocket sees from 50 to 58, back&forth, routinely -- which is inherent to this plan as I'd keep it at just the OEM bar-length if forced to choose one or the other, am simply looking at it going
"will be buing a longer bar shortly anyway, and since this powerhead *can* theoretically move it, I'll surely find-use sooner or later" 
I have seen this mentioned quite a few times now. What exactly is a 10mm 044? I know what the 044 is. Nit so much on the 10mm.
Thanks.
10 mm wrist pin on tbe piston.
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Why would that be a worthwhile # to know? I mean, more-worthwhile than a million other things? IE bore&stroke are the 2 most-important after displacement, followed by squish &compression, no? Always kinda figured the wrist pin was just gonna be whatever the manufacturer felt necessary to meet strength-requirements ;P
Thanks. I’m toying with getting a 28” 572, and this was one of my concerns.
Why not consider 58 gauge? Maybe they aren't as popular, they seem more common in off-brand stuff I think it was "Laser" branded bars that were 58 gauge after they past 28" or 30"....saw a youtuber recently talking about his love for Sugihara lightweights, some of the best bars as far as I understood it, but he acknowledges/warns that they DO flex under load if you're not very careful....I don't want a bar that feels 'dainty' not at that type of length/leverage, would certainly want 63g if going with a 36" b&c but see 50g used on stuff well over 30" so have to imagine that 58g is plenty fine up to 30/32"...I dunno would love others' thoughts on this!
My biggest fear is just as-mentioned above Re using different gauged driver-links on my saw's sprocket, swapping back&forth between them, will make them 'alter' the sprocket-grooves caused by the other chain's DL's....I know it'd even-out over time but expect a fair chance of skipping/chattering chain if its DL's are overcoming grooves that are >10% different gauge!
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Think I probably
WILL order 58 gauge B&C now (28-32" probably 32"), will see how my sprocket likes it, have a couple ideas both on 'fixing' the problem as well as taking advantage of upgrading to the 620 rim-drive setup if I actually did ruin my 590's sprocket beyond good-usefulness, though their sprockets seem
very tough relatively speaking they seem to groove slower than other brands IME!
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When buying bars online at a good shop, there's a whole bunch of bar-mount types.... When you go to ebay/amazon, guys seem to sell 2 types: "stihl type" and "husqvarna type", and the seller-feedback scores are very high so it's not like their product isn't fitting....I know my bar-mount's max size is 28" but want a lil longer, am adept enough at making 'custom spacers'/washers for fitment, have various types of grinders / step-bits for the drill, am not afraid of doign work - even a lot - to a bar,
only that the bar can actually fit properly AND take the appropriate size(ie number of DL's) chain as its length would commonly take! Have to imagine "husqv type" is the right choice here am gonna try to find some pics online to see if I can scale/proportionally see what is gonna work / what will not!
