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Anyone see any reason not to just dump this?

davidwyby

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Ok, let me see if I can describe this well: I wanna fell it but the owner, my buddy, employee is nervous about dropping it and wants to piece it down with the man lift.

House is N of the tree. Limb/trunk 1 on the right is dead, leans NE towards the camera across the corner of the house. Limb 2 on the left is taller, big, live and heavy. It leans SE, the direction the tree needs to go.
Limb 3 behind limb 1 leans SW in the direction of the drain field.

66D44317-BD84-4F61-91A8-1623D424B127.jpeg


1 on the left, 3 in the middle, 2 on the right.

A92AC00E-5F82-4F23-8C9F-252F5B208915.jpeg
 

Thumper88

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Id double rope it, with either a truck, equipment or two big comealongs, pull it slow while silmetanously putting in the backcut. Pound in wedges as you cut and just pull it over. Ive pulled trees with more lean and more weight headed 180 degrees away from the lean.
 

Maintenance Chief

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A good 3/4" rope and a directional pulley is what I use on probably 1/3rd of the trees I cut ( I don't climb) .
Always cut it like there ain't no rope and you be fine , gap face cut witb plenty ofhinge and she'll ride the stump to the ground.
 

Int1968

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As long the leaning arm doesn’t end up on the bottom or cause an unplanned roll. I’ve seen large trees with big mature crown have the butt end up many feet in the air once on the ground. (just something to be aware and plan for). Pretty much all the trees we take down/fall are with ropes, powerline reasons and wedges aren’t allowed.

Taking down with a lift seems needless. I’d rope it
 

Thumper88

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Wedges are smart just for added safety rather than trying to tip the tree over with them.
I always try to keep my wedges slid in tight when Im pulling one with a rope or cable just in case it breaks, that way it wont set back on the saw and it should reduce the likely hood of it coming back across the stump and breaking the hinge if the rope snaps and it sets back hard
 

sawmikaze

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Throw into the furthest crotch back and pull your line through and tie a clove hitch a little bit above your felling cuts.

When you tension your rope make sure it's snug on the stem it's through.

Abra Cadabra.
 
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sawmikaze

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Throw into the furthest crotch back and pull your line through and tie a clove hitch a little bit above your felling cuts.

When you tension your line make sure it's snug on the stem it's through.

Abra Cadabra.

This was assuming you have a line and throwballs..

Obviously you have ropes..
 

sawmikaze

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I always try to keep my wedges slid in tight when Im pulling one with a rope or cable just in case it breaks, that way it wont set back on the saw and it should reduce the likely hood of it coming back across the stump and breaking the hinge if the rope snaps and it sets back hard

That's why If I pull trees over I take no chances, just leave your working rope in the tree and tie a clove above your felling cuts and your pulling on the whole tree instead of just the top, it literally can't go wrong.
 

davidwyby

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I don’t have good rope…I just use winch cable. I was thinking another line just above the cut tensioned with a come a long.

Not really necessary in this situation, but to keep tension longer, I thought about attaching a weight to the middle of the cable and then pulling tight to lift the weight. Or, I’d like to build a “speed winch” like a water ski winch. Only a few hundred pounds of pull, but a lot faster fpm.
 

davidwyby

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I truest wedges with strong live trees but all bets are off with dead, hinges break…dead leaners get pulled!

this’n is all weighted the right way, cable just for safety, I imagine it will fell itself when the back cut gets to hinge area.
 

Int1968

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Never heard or seen a separate rope just above the cut, Masdam rope pullers are inexpensive work well. They are slow but because the rope is so elastic you can usually put enough tension that everything comes over on the backcut, without out more cranking. A lot of times working along power lines we won’t or can’t isolate the line so it gets run down to a clove or running bowline tied above your notch, just remember youve doubled the load on the crotch or union the rope is running through. Your truck weighs enough if you have someone who’s a competent driver. Everything we do at work has to incorporate eye to eye breaks when rigging, if your worried.

as others have said looks like it wants to go and I imagine it will with a deep notch.

I think your overthinking it.
 

Stihl036

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I don’t have good rope…I just use winch cable. I was thinking another line just above the cut tensioned with a come a long.

Not really necessary in this situation, but to keep tension longer, I thought about attaching a weight to the middle of the cable and then pulling tight to lift the weight. Or, I’d like to build a “speed winch” like a water ski winch. Only a few hundred pounds of pull, but a lot faster fpm.


Rope stretch can be used to advantage where cables with less stretch can become slack as soon as the trunk moves. When roping down sections of trees rope stretch greatly reduces the amplitude of shock loads.
 
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