Anybody Ever Make Their Own Skip Chains?

[Wilhelm]

Yes. Yes you would. This is clearly an improvised, 'kludge' approach. The question is how much would it matter in a practical sense, or would it create any unique hazards?

Philbert

I haven't noticed any inappropriate side affects when it comes to handling and cutting performance.
I also haven't had any unique hazardous behaviour.

Don't over think it guys, at those chain speeds it don't matter whatsoever as long as it is a work chain!

 

[jakethesnake]

I have some full comp chains spun from odds and ends. They have two rights and two lefts in a row. Hasn't seemed to affect anything. There's also specific drive counts that end up with two rights or two lefts.

 

[Philbert]

I was taught that a 'perfect chain' is a loop where the number of drive links is divisible by 4; that is the way you end up with a perfect L-R-L-R sequence (full comp chain). Otherwise, you will have an extra L, extra R, extra space, etc. Does not make a practical difference.

But we also know that if the cutters on one side (or the depth gauges on one side) are significantly different than the other side, the chain will pull to one side, and even cut in a curve.

Skip-tooth chain has extra spaces: to reduce the number of teeth in the cut (reducing load on the saw), and, to help clear chips when cutting larger diameter wood. Some people also like filing fewer teeth!

Semi-skip chain always seemed to me like it was for people who could not make up their minds. But in another thread, someone suggested that keeping the R and L cutters as close pairs helps to keep the chain from wandering in the kerf, while the extra spaces provide the benefits of full-skip chain? Not sure if this is accurate, but an interesting idea.

This 'Cowboy Skip' chain would just be an improvisation. I would not try to make one if I had a loop of full-skip chain available (except to try it!).

Philbert

 

[jakethesnake]

I have a 272 I run a 32 on when I actually need it. It's really sorta rare I ever need that but I use skip as I don't know how much the saw would really like full comp. making a skip for that might make sense

 

[Wilhelm]

I was taught that a 'perfect chain' is a loop where the number of drive links is divisible by 4; that is the way you end up with a perfect L-R-L-R sequence (full comp chain). Otherwise, you will have an extra L, extra R, extra space, etc. Does not make a practical difference.

Many "standard" DL count loops have an uneven number of teeth.
Most Stihl loops in my area have an uneven tooth count.
It makes no notable difference in real world operation!

For example: A 3/8" 115DL full comp loop intended for a 36" bar with D009 mount features two right or left cutters in a row, and an extra space between them.
Doesn't seem to make any notable difference.

But we also know that if the cutters on one side (or the depth gauges on one side) are significantly different than the other side, the chain will pull to one side, and even cut in a curve.

But usually only if the entire left or right handed tooth row is completely off set.
A single or two teeth not matching the rest, even when in a row, will not make the chain cut crooked.

Skip-tooth chain has extra spaces: to reduce the number of teeth in the cut (reducing load on the saw), and, to help clear chips when cutting larger diameter wood. Some people also like filing fewer teeth!

Semi-skip chain always seemed to me like it was for people who could not make up their minds. But in another thread, someone suggested that keeping the R and L cutters as close pairs helps to keep the chain from wandering in the kerf, while the extra spaces provide the benefits of full-skip chain? Not sure if this is accurate, but an interesting idea.

To clarify, "Skip tooth" or full skip features the same amount of extra spaces between both left and right handed teeth - that would suggest optimal chip clearance capabilities.
It also suggests that the entire loop, both cutter sides, behave the same.

"Semi skip" or half skip features one extra space followed by no extra space at all!
That would suggest that one cutter has extra space for chip clearance while the next cutter following it does not?!
Meaning, one cutter side is getting plugged by chips possibly even lifted off the wood by them and creating additional drag?!

This 'Cowboy Skip' chain would just be an improvisation. I would not try to make one if I had a loop of full-skip chain available (except to try it!).

Philbert

If the "Semi skip" geometry is a proven working thing, then I don't see any opposing reason why a homemade "Sorta-skip" wouldn't be real world condition certified as well.

W.

 

[davidwyby]

Morning gents.

Dug up this old thread doing research. I have 3 loops of 28" full comp. In fibrous tamarix aphylla, I have had trouble with bars and chains (and tip sprockets) choking/binding on chips/fibers. In harder Eucalyptus or sticky gummy dead dry pine, trouble with the saw pulling the chain. I'm wondering if some cowboy skip might help. What was the conclusion? Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[CR888]

A lot of fibre/chip binding issues that you get from certain wood species get minimised or disappear when you go from 050 to 063 b/c setups. Just my experience. Are you running 050 bars and chains?

 

[davidwyby]

A lot of fibre/chip binding issues that you get from certain wood species get minimised or disappear when you go from 050 to 063 b/c setups. Just my experience. Are you running 050 bars and chains?

Makes sense.

I am, but I have one .063", I will try it. Thanks!

 

[Wilhelm]

I don't see why .063" vs .050" gauge would make any difference.
If the fibers/chips get between the chains DL's and bar groove then there is most likely a chip clearance issue to begin with.

You say You have three loops?!
Take the most worn one, make a "hillbilly skip chain" and give it a try.
I'd recommend only removing the top plates of every third tooth and leaving the side plates and rakers to act as scoring and chip clearing teeth.
What can You loose giving it a try?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Are your chains full chisel and or hungry, semi chisel and hungry
. I say this because I’ve had a couple of chains where the chips just filled the bar rail, then it jammed. This was because it was to hungry and the amount of chip couldn’t be cleared.
I stuffed the chain in a bag and put another on. I,m sure the chain will get used then I will know why it’s been in the bag for so long.

Try Swapping chains and or maybe make them less hungry.

 

[Thumper88]

I’ve done it. I cut every 3rd tooth off on a 110 DL Oregon Square ground chain on a 34” bar. Ran it on my 462 on a big maple. It worked well enough, no crazy vibration or anything

 

[davidwyby]

 

[jetsam]

I was gonna say clear out the gullets, but they look good in that picture.

Check the gauge on that bar and see if it's bent out some?

How is the tension on the chain?

Does a worn down chain with longer gullets do better?

 

[davidwyby]

Yeah, I sharpened that one carefully with a Husky roller and then touched gullets up more by hand. Depth gauges are set at "hard".

I will check the bar.

I have tried tighter and looser with neither better.

Possibly, I will try that Saturday - and full skip.

It seems maybe the issue is the fibers in the bark. More bark=more choke.

 

[Wilhelm]

Buried bar tip?
Don't!
It's a chip clearance issue, nothing wrong with Your bar or chain.
You can counteract the binding by letting the saw turn as high as possible, while maintaining a healthy load.
The couple future times You file Your chain don't touch the rakers, higher rakers = less chips = higher chain speed = lesser chance of binding.

On second thought, it's the chain!
I'll take that EXL off Your hands free of charge and You get Yourself some quality Archer or TriLink.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

^^^

 

[davidwyby]

I knew there was a reason for "too long" bars...

@Benwa

 

[Wilhelm]

View attachment 285779 View attachment 285780

My 9010 23" B&C setup did the same damn thing in a large diameter turkey oak log with the bar tip buried.
It helped to cut deeper from "around" then pull the saw over to the logs front and let her eat through the log on her own pace.

No binding whatsoever on two smaller diameter turkey oak logs the same day - the bar tip was not buried bucking up those logs.

 

[jetsam]

I'd say back off the raker filing, then. If you leave them alone for the next several sharpens you should see an improvement as the angle of attack gets lower and the chips get smaller.

 

[davidwyby]

Today I put the 42 inch bar on the 395 in order to do some milling, so I put the eight pin sprocket and 30 inch bar with full skip chain from the 395 on the 2166 and it did fine in the same wood and didn’t choke like the full comp 28 inch did. Bar tip protruding.