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7 vs 8 pin skip vs full

Catfishclark89

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Say a feller has a good running 70-80cc saw. Cutting hardwoods. Running 28” bar. In terms of cutting speed. Would he be better off running a:
1.skip chain with an 8 pin rim
2. Skip chain with a 7 pin rim
3. Full comp chain with 7 pin rim
4. Full comp chain with 8 pin rim
And when I say good running saw I mean a machined and ported saw. Running 3/8” pitch .050 gauge. Any and all input appreciated
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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Just cause you can run a 8 tooth doesn't mean you should.

The 8 tooth is going to put more stress on the clutch, crank and bearings.

I'm far from a pro and I don't get much seat time behind a chainsaw. Take it for what it's worth. More or less making an observation to add to the discussion.
 

huskihl

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Skip is always slower on shorter bars. It’s easier to sharpen by 2/3, but the chain also goes dull exactly that much quicker. Unless you’re attracted to hitting rocks, in which that case skip would be better.

If you’re just bucking/down cutting, an 8 is faster on bigger saws or shorter bars. If you need torque and forgiveness to get through pinch/compression situations, a 7 is better
 
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davidwyby

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.325 will add more cutters the linear length of the bar..

…and they are smaller and easier to pull, so theoretically faster until chips become a problem depending on the wood, and they dull a little faster, especially if ground to fast angles. 23rspro.

Purty sure I have run .325” 24”, I know I have run 3/8”lp, but none of the smaller pitches in 28”. Green wood here chokes them, and dry wood dulls them.
 

Wilhelm

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My case, Turkey oak and often 24+" OD, 73-79cc, 24" B&C, round ground.
7 pin and full chisel full skip hands down.

I imagine even more so utilizing B&C setups over 24", though I can not comment on that as getting full skip is nearly impossible for me so I run full comp on 10 through 36".
I do my own hillbilly skip mod to the 36"/115DL loop though.
 

Wilhelm

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Stock, then new Dolmar PS-9010, no MM, not broken in, tuned quite rich.
I was stuck with the 23" hard nose bar she came with due to the OEM 14mm studs.
Went to my Stihl dealer and set her up with .325" & 3/8" just for the fun of it.

.325" , brand new Stihl RS , 9 pin



3/8" , brand new Stihl RS , 8 pin


My PS-9010 settled since then.
She got a MM & tune up, modded studs, full wrap - still prefers a 7 pin in hardwoods.
She'll pull my 36" B&C setup all day long, even the spare full comp loop - though the main hillbilly skip loop runs smoother.
 
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farminkarman

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In hardwood, like dead ash, I've found 7 pin with skip to work the best for me.
With the dead ash around here, I run 7 pin full comp with the rakers around 0.035” below the cutters. If I want to go faster then I run a square chain with the rakers at 0.040”. I tried some skip on my 36” setup and it didn’t seem to offer anything better than full comp, so I don’t see the point….at least for the saws I have.
 

Firewood Hoarder

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With the dead ash around here, I run 7 pin full comp with the rakers around 0.035” below the cutters. If I want to go faster then I run a square chain with the rakers at 0.040”. I tried some skip on my 36” setup and it didn’t seem to offer anything better than full comp, so I don’t see the point….at least for the saws I have.

I do alot of noodling to save my back, and I've found the skip to out-cut the full comp in that situation. I should have mentioned that in my post.
 

davidwyby

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I would definitely go 7 full
Here is a video from Julian:
I had forgotten all his testing. 8 pin doesn’t add as much as one would think. Especially on some longer bar tests he did IIRC. It does reduce dogging forgiveness. For felling I like skip 7 pin.

I was recently cutting in a west coast situ and wood…fibrous. The square skip and 8 pins they run work well in it. Severing and clearing chips is the need.
 
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