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davidwyby

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The other day I tipped a 48” back weighted oak. Gave me the opp to test wedges and their bangers. I noticed the forester hard head seemed to drive the best. @Woodpecker do you (or others) have a brand that seems better? I want to get another one or two.

IMG_7831.jpeg

@chiselbit
 

Woodpecker

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The other day I tipped a 48” back weighted oak. Gave me the opp to test wedges and their bangers. I noticed the forester hard head seemed to drive the best. @Woodpecker do you (or others) have a brand that seems better? I want to get another one or two.

View attachment 429270

@chiselbit
I’ve had the best luck with the hard head brand plastic wedges. They are tough as nails. I broke several forester hard head knock offs. The plastic on those was super soft and the steel insert only went in like an inch. Complete garbage!
 

Philbert

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Hard Head made full, ‘T’- capped wedges, and ‘Hard Head Junior’, wedges with only a steel insert, to reduce weight.

I like the idea, but they kept pulling my pants down.

Some of you guys wedge harder than me, so they can be a good choice.

IMG_7714.jpeg
Hard Head, with ‘T’-shaped cap.

IMG_7713.jpeg
Hard Head Junior, with metal inset only.

Philbert
 

Woodpecker

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Hard Head made full, ‘T’- capped wedges, and ‘Hard Head Junior’, wedges with only a steel insert, to reduce weight.

I like the idea, but they kept pulling my pants down.

Some of you guys wedge harder than me, so they can be a good choice.

View attachment 429334
Hard Head, with ‘T’-shaped cap.

View attachment 429335
Hard Head Junior, with metal inset only.

Philbert
I didn’t know they made the junior version. Good share.

Typically when I’ve had the regular hard head wedges first fail that “T” part will break off. The insert in the wedge still remains and the wedges still last a long time after.

The Junior version is a good idea and very likely a great compromise for extended work in the bush because the regular hard head wedges are fairly heavy compared to regular plastic wedges.
 
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