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XP_Slinger

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So on to MM thoughts. I'm thinking I will just cut away the baffle underneath the screen and call it good. It seems like that would let the muffler flow quite a bit better. Had the thought of pointing the deflector forward also but I'll see how I like it with just that baffle removed. I'm not inclined to put another port on the left side of the muffler because I don't wanna cut my cover.
 

T.Roller

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So on to MM thoughts. I'm thinking I will just cut away the baffle underneath the screen and call it good. It seems like that would let the muffler flow quite a bit better. Had the thought of pointing the deflector forward also but I'll see how I like it with just that baffle removed. I'm not inclined to put another port on the left side of the muffler because I don't wanna cut my cover.
 

XP_Slinger

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Picked up my last couple parts from the dealer this morning. Decompressor, flywheel nut, choke lever grommet, throttle arm grommet and a spark plug. I'm glad he has that dead 281 there for me to pull these little parts off of. I'm actually thinking of buying the whole thing just to have the cases and all that other stuff on the shelf. It's really a savable saw....hmmmmmm.:cool:
 

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This 281 has turned into a gold mine. It appears to be a fairly low hour saw. Check out how nice this crank is! Even though the crank that was in my 288 is fine, I'll be using this one instead just because it doesn't look like it has much time on it.
IMG_0570.JPG IMG_0571.JPG
 
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XP_Slinger

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So @RIDE-RED 350r and I were pondering over the best method of installing the clutch side crank bearing. Both of us are used to dealing with cases that have a shoulder that the bearing seats against, and as you guys with experience know there is no shoulder on the clutch side and the seal is in the pump housing not the crank case.
We had 2 ideas, first was to install the pump and press the bearing until it seats against it as it is designed. The difficulty in this is that there is no flat surface to set the case on while pressing the bearing in place. A little heat would help but I don't want to damage the o-ring on the pump housing either.
Second idea was to press the bearing in from the outside but then we're left with finding the correct seating depth by feel based on where the old bearing was. I have that 281 case split for reference but to me this is still not ideal.
Can anyone share their method for pressing the clutch side crank bearing to the correct depth? Sorry for the long winded post and I hope I've illustrated what we're thinking clearly enough so you guys know what I'm thinking on this. Thanks!
 

rattler

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So @RIDE-RED 350r and I were pondering over the best method of installing the clutch side crank bearing. Both of us are used to dealing with cases that have a shoulder that the bearing seats against, and as you guys with experience know there is no shoulder on the clutch side and the seal is in the pump housing not the crank case.
We had 2 ideas, first was to install the pump and press the bearing until it seats against it. The difficulty in this is that there is no flat surface to set the case on while pressing the bearing in place. A little heat would help but I don't want to damage the o-ring on the pump housing either.
Second idea was to press the bearing in from the outside but then we're left with finding the correct seating depth by feel based on where the old bearing was. I have that 281 case split for reference but to me this is still not ideal.
Can anyone share their method for pressing the clutch side crank bearing to the correct depth? Sorry for the long winded post and I hope I've illustrated what we're thinking clearly enough so you guys know what I'm thinking on this. Thanks!
I have a spark oil pump that I mount on the case half heat and seat the bearing against the oil pump or that's how I do it

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XP_Slinger

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I have a spark oil pump that I mount on the case half heat and seat the bearing against the oil pump or that's how I do it

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Why didn't I think of that! I have a another pump housing too! I also just had the thought to remove the oring, install the housing and then use some propane heat to loosen the the case a bit to ease the install. Thanks rattler! For sharing your method and getting my dang brain firing on all cylinders. Lol
:beer-toast1:
 
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