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60 and 70cc saw opinions

huskyboy

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You can figure out where a saw makes power in the real world pretty easily with a tach in the cut. Let it self feed with a sharp aggressive chain... the rpm it cuts at there is usually peak power. Next, lug it down to just about where it wants to stall and see what rpm that is. That’s close to where max torque is. Take max rpm and subtract your rpm the max torque was at. That’s your useable powerband width.
 

huskyboy

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For example; with a 28” bar the ported 365 I have here cuts at 10,200-10,500 self feeding with a aggressive chain in hickory. Stalling point is 6,800-7,000 rpm. It likes to cut at 9-10k with a medium load on it. That’s a 3,700rpm wide powerband. The powerband might be a little different with different bars... ie; with a shorter bar it would hold higher rpm in cut. But it’s a pretty close guess to the powerband you would get on a legit dyno.
 
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chipper1

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For example; with a 28” bar the ported 365 I have here cuts at 10,200-10,500 self feeding with a aggressive chain in hickory. Stalling point is 6,800-7,000 rpm. It likes to cut at 9-10k with a medium load on it. That’s a 3,700rpm wide powerband. The powerband might be a little different with different bars... ie; with a shorter bar it would hold higher rpm in cut. But it’s a pretty close guess to the powerband you would get on a legit dyno.
Can I send my saws to you to be hickory dynoed :D.
I have two hickory on the property here that I'm aware of, the big one is 7-8", probably won't be any hickory dynoing going on here anytime soon.
 

huskihl

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Can I send my saws to you to be hickory dynoed :D.
I have two hickory on the property here that I'm aware of, the big one is 7-8", probably won't be any hickory dynoing going on here anytime soon.
You can bring them up here. Saws love that 150-200 year old yard maple shît I’ve been cutting into cookies. Hard to get through it more than 5 or 6 times without sharpening
 

chipper1

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You can bring them up here. Saws love that 150-200 year old yard maple shît I’ve been cutting into cookies. Hard to get through it more than 5 or 6 times without sharpening
Thanks for the invite, I'd like to make it up that way.
That would do it, like I said in the 2175 video, it looks nasty.
I'm out of the ash I had, it did a great job although it wasn't as bug as that maple. Next up for me will be an elm stick, it's not the hardest wood, but it will slow a chain down if it doesn't like what you've done sharpening it.
 

huskihl

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Thanks for the invite, I'd like to make it up that way.
That would do it, like I said in the 2175 video, it looks nasty.
I'm out of the ash I had, it did a great job although it wasn't as bug as that maple. Next up for me will be an elm stick, it's not the hardest wood, but it will slow a chain down if it doesn't like what you've done sharpening it.
Custer had some kind of elm crotch last year at his place. The only chain that could make more than 1 cut was Raisman .404 semi/chipper. Lol. It was terribly hard stuff
 

Sawrain

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I agree that saw spec sheets are just a start, and that you need to run a saw, to see if the specs are real (like a Dolmar 115 weight), to see how it fits with your cutting style and conditions.

But to say accurate power figures and dyno plots of power are of no use is a short sighted view.

Outside of throttle response a saws raw cutting speed (chain/sprocket considered) will be completely reflected in a dyno plot.

Response, idling, starting will of course not, but people don’t normally argue about those things do they?

We know that power/cut speed isn’t everything, buts it’s the most often argued point.

This isn’t mean to to be directed at anyone directly and I already regret posting it.
 
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huskihl

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I agree that saw spec sheets are just a start, and that you need to run a saw, to see if the specs are real (like a Dolmar 115 weight), to see how it fits with your cutting style and conditions.

But to say accurate power figures and dyno plots of power are of no use is a short sighted view.

Outside of throttle response a saws raw cutting speed (chain/sprocket considered) will be completely reflected in a dyno plot.

Response, idling, starting will of course not, but people don’t normally argue about those things do they?

We know that power/cut speed isn’t everything, buts it’s the most often argued point.

This isn’t mean to to be directed at anyone directly and I already regret posting it.
I think we were promoting your point, not discrediting the dyno plot. That’s what I meant by having useful numbers at different RPM including peak. Area under the curve almost always wins
 

Orangeinthebarn

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So with the new saws like the 572 and 462 what is everyone's opinions on the best 60 and 70cc saws available new on shelves offered now days? Looking into purchasing one in the near future possibly.
If I had to purchase only a new saw off the shelf currently available it would be a ms462. I wouldn’t want any new 60cc.
 

huskyboy

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Well, I now have to eat my words, picking up a dealer demo 565 next week
572 is only around 70 bucks more I believe if I’m not mistaken. That’s the problem though... 365 was 150-200$ less than 372 just for reference. That made sense. Don’t know what husky thinking with the 565 pricing it that close to 572’s. I’m sure it’s a good saw though.
 

Ronaldo

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Nice saws. I do believe you'll like both of em. Oregon Vanguard chain on the 261. Not my favorite but it cuts wood.
Congratulations on a couple new cutters!

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
 

woodfarmer

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7583EDFB-4CBC-4B3F-B74D-C478173C223F.jpeg Well I put the 565 into some wood this morning, sugar maple 20” bar. It’s as smooth as advertised but doesn’t seem to have the low end grunt I was expecting. Maybe when it gets broken in.
Of course I’m comparing it to ported 2165 and a 2171, so I’ll have to dig out a stock 2165 and my ported 2159 and do some times cuts next week.
 
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