Socalmisfit
Well-Known OPE Member
- Local time
- 8:16 PM
- User ID
- 14622
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2020
- Messages
- 171
- Reaction score
- 189
- Location
- California hi desert
Good oil whatever you like 32 or 40/1What’s up guys, got my 395 today and was wondering how everyone breaks them in. First time with a new saw, and a bug step from a 455 lol. Thanks
Yeah put it on the board as a comparison for my buddies that don’t use saws lol.If it can ride a skateboard, it's already broken in.
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Says 5 hrs in my Koehler, I’ll go with 5 just to be on the safe side.Just make sure to change the oil after the first 10hrs.
How about 927? Anyone running that through their saws?Well, however many hours one gas can gets you, then try a different oil till you've tried them all, then come argue about what's best in the oil thread.
Your saw your choiceI appreciate all the feedback guys, first time I get to run a saw this big. Like a kid on Xmas morning, I’ll run it like a 2 stroke is suppose to be run WOT. Here’s another question, anyone run 927 through these saws? I know they say not to run it in the newer 2 stroke dirt bikes but it smells sooooooo good.
I've never had my stihl dealer do that.They do say in chainsaw manuals to avoid unnecessarily high rpms for the first few hours. But then Stihl has the dealers fire it up and hold full throttle for a solid 30-60 seconds before they sell it to you.
I understand the basics of it. I don’t have a tach, but I can tune it in the wood. Right makes it lean, left makes it rich. Tuning the top like u said four strokes on the top, and is clean (2 stroke) in the wood. From what I understand bottom end is for response, all the way right until it wants to stall out then back off. U want it to have good throttle response. Idle so the chain doesn’t move. Running it 40:1 it may be past the limiter adjustments, so I do have the 21 spline tool. If u can go into a little more detail I’d appreciate it, but that’s what I get from reading.I would run at least 40:1 as mentioned above. Your going to have to retune the saw for 40:1 or 32:1 because it will be lean due to the change in the air/fuel mixture ratio. This is because it was tuned for 50:1 from the factory. 12,500rpm no load is a good starting point. You want it to four stroke (burble) as soon as you lift on the saw and clean up in the cut. Do you know how to tune a saw? Your going to need the splined carb tool to tune it, same one as your 455 rancher uses. Also, do yourself a favor and check all the screws after the first couple times you run the saw to make sure they are tight.
You got it pretty good, I think you’ll do fine. You seem to have a good understanding.I understand the basics of it. I don’t have a tach, but I can tune it in the wood. Right makes it lean, left makes it rich. Tuning the top like u said four strokes on the top, and is clean (2 stroke) in the wood. From what I understand bottom end is for response, all the way right until it wants to stall out then back off. U want it to have good throttle response. Idle so the chain doesn’t move. Running it 40:1 it may be past the limiter adjustments, so I do have the 21 spline tool. If u can go into a little more detail I’d appreciate it, but that’s what I get from reading.
I admit I've only heard about it being done, it's to calibrate the MT.I've never had my stihl dealer do that.