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HUSQVARNA 395 break in, what does everyone do?

Socalmisfit

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What’s up guys, got my 395 today and was wondering how everyone breaks them in. First time with a new saw, and a bug step from a 455 lol. Thanks
 

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Socalmisfit

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I appreciate all the feedback guys, first time I get to run a saw this big. Like a kid on Xmas morning, I’ll run it like a 2 stroke is suppose to be run WOT. Here’s another question, anyone run 927 through these saws? I know they say not to run it in the newer 2 stroke dirt bikes but it smells sooooooo good. ;)
 

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I would avoid anything with castor oil except in race only applications. 927 says it reduces carbon and gum formation, not prevents. There are oils that remove carbon.
 

Czed

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I appreciate all the feedback guys, first time I get to run a saw this big. Like a kid on Xmas morning, I’ll run it like a 2 stroke is suppose to be run WOT. Here’s another question, anyone run 927 through these saws? I know they say not to run it in the newer 2 stroke dirt bikes but it smells sooooooo good. ;)
Your saw your choice
There's literally hundreds maybe thousands of appropriate
Proven oils for 2 cycles
But sure go ahead
Usually not recommended oils carbon
Heavily
But it's easily fixed
Just time and money.
 

Maintenance Chief

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As far as break in I run the saw a little fat on 32:1 then 40:1 after the first tank. Bucking easy stuff for the first 2 tanks then go to regular use.
Piss revving it in the yard to look AWESOME may not be great till about 10 tanks.
 

huskyboy

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I would run at least 40:1 as mentioned above. Your going to have to retune the saw for 40:1 or 32:1 because it will be lean due to the change in the air/fuel mixture ratio. This is because it was tuned for 50:1 from the factory. 12,500rpm no load is a good starting point. You want it to four stroke (burble) as soon as you lift on the saw and clean up in the cut. Do you know how to tune a saw? Your going to need the splined carb tool to tune it, same one as your 455 rancher uses. Also, do yourself a favor and check all the screws after the first couple times you run the saw to make sure they are tight.
 
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Nutball

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They do say in chainsaw manuals to avoid unnecessarily high rpms for the first few hours. But then Stihl has the dealers fire it up and hold full throttle for a solid 30-60 seconds before they sell it to you.
 

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They do say in chainsaw manuals to avoid unnecessarily high rpms for the first few hours. But then Stihl has the dealers fire it up and hold full throttle for a solid 30-60 seconds before they sell it to you.
I've never had my stihl dealer do that.
 

Socalmisfit

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I would run at least 40:1 as mentioned above. Your going to have to retune the saw for 40:1 or 32:1 because it will be lean due to the change in the air/fuel mixture ratio. This is because it was tuned for 50:1 from the factory. 12,500rpm no load is a good starting point. You want it to four stroke (burble) as soon as you lift on the saw and clean up in the cut. Do you know how to tune a saw? Your going to need the splined carb tool to tune it, same one as your 455 rancher uses. Also, do yourself a favor and check all the screws after the first couple times you run the saw to make sure they are tight.
I understand the basics of it. I don’t have a tach, but I can tune it in the wood. Right makes it lean, left makes it rich. Tuning the top like u said four strokes on the top, and is clean (2 stroke) in the wood. From what I understand bottom end is for response, all the way right until it wants to stall out then back off. U want it to have good throttle response. Idle so the chain doesn’t move. Running it 40:1 it may be past the limiter adjustments, so I do have the 21 spline tool. If u can go into a little more detail I’d appreciate it, but that’s what I get from reading.
 

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I understand the basics of it. I don’t have a tach, but I can tune it in the wood. Right makes it lean, left makes it rich. Tuning the top like u said four strokes on the top, and is clean (2 stroke) in the wood. From what I understand bottom end is for response, all the way right until it wants to stall out then back off. U want it to have good throttle response. Idle so the chain doesn’t move. Running it 40:1 it may be past the limiter adjustments, so I do have the 21 spline tool. If u can go into a little more detail I’d appreciate it, but that’s what I get from reading.
You got it pretty good, I think you’ll do fine. You seem to have a good understanding.
 
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