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385XP won't start

Riftweaver

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More diagnosis.

Flywheel is pulled and it did not spin. The integral key is intact and in the crankshaft keyway.

Piston is scored, but......

I contacted the original owner. Here is some history on the saw. He purchased it new. Supposedly he accidentally poured drain oil in the fuel tank one time, without knowing it. (He had drain oil in a fuel can, not sure why) He started the saw back up and it ran a little bit and locked up. He took it to the dealer and they repaired it. (no clue as to what they actually did) He got the saw back and ran about 1 tank through it and it locked up again. He went and bought a new saw.

He gave me the saw as a project. I have a few other saws and 60 acres of woods. He said it locked up as the recoil was pulled out and wrapped around the handle. I found the spring loaded tabs on the flywheel to be locked up and I free'd them and the recoil started working properly. It would still not start and I started to dive into it.

Aside from the scored piston, I was able to check compression with a gauge. Good or bad news, I only have 80psi after five complete pulls of the starter rope. I believe I should have 110-120 minimum. So that goes along with the scored piston.

I have been told that the 390 piston and cylinder is a bolt on replacement for the 385XP if I wish. As long as I may have to replace the jug and can, should I just go that route?

Do we have any reputable Husky dealers on this site that I can either buy from or get a price check from? I have a good relationship with my Stihl dealer but am really wondering if my Husky dealer is raking me over the coals. I haven't checked prices for this yet but I have another part I could use as a "for instance".


So yes, fuel and spark won't do squat without good compression. I had compression, just not enough.


Let me know what you all think.
 

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Riftweaver

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How do you remove large amounts of aluminum from the cylinder bore without doing damage to the bore plating?

Piston is 100% fubar with the rings.
 

huskihl

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How do you remove large amounts of aluminum from the cylinder bore without doing damage to the bore plating?

Piston is 100% fubar with the rings.
Can only speak for myself. I dab muriatic acid in the transfer with a q tip and then do a little sanding. And repeat a couple times until I’m either happy or throw it away. The plating it pretty hard and doesn’t sand through easily. But the acid removes the bulk of the transfer without sanding at all
 

Riftweaver

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Sorry for the pics off my phone.

I was able to remove all of the transfered aluminum out of the cylinder without damaging it. There are a couple of "scratches" that are going to be permanent. I wanted to ask the experts and see what kind of input you have.

You should be able to blow thg he pics up and see the scratches. One is down on the extension just to the left of the cut out. The pic that is deeper into the bore has a few up at the very top.

What say you?
 

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Canadian farm boy

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Sorry for the pics off my phone.

I was able to remove all of the transfered aluminum out of the cylinder without damaging it. There are a couple of "scratches" that are going to be permanent. I wanted to ask the experts and see what kind of input you have.

You should be able to blow thg he pics up and see the scratches. One is down on the extension just to the left of the cut out. The pic that is deeper into the bore has a few up at the very top.

What say you?
I vote to run it. That jug cleaned up pretty good. Those scratches shouldn’t hurt anything as long as they aren’t through the plating.
 

Riftweaver

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So I wanted to stop back in and say thanks to those who posted on this thread.

I fired this saw up last night. I know it looks like it's been a while since I started working on this saw and it has been. I just work on it on the side when I can and it's not an issue.

I cleaned the cylinder up with the mandrel and emery cloth method. I Scotch-Brite'd the bore as well. The piston was replaced with an OEM one. The base gasket was deleted and I verified my squish at 0.023". Carb limiters were removed, vacuum and pressure tests were done, muffler mod and a few other little trinkets were replaced to make sure everything was up to snuff.

Last night I fired her up. It took about 6 pulls on choke because there had been zero fuel in it for some time. Everything seems to work very well and I am quite pleased.

I'll get a compression reading after it breaks in a bit with 4-5 tanks. I can already tell it's quite stout. Maybe I will grab a pic or two of the saw as well. She's a looker for sure. She could probably jus about pass off as a brand new 385XP.
 
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Czed

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So I wanted to stop back in and say thanks to those who posted on this thread.

I fired this saw up last night. I know it looks like it's been a while since I started working on this saw and it has been. I just work on it on the side when I can and it's not an issue.

I cleaned the cylinder up with the mandrel and emery cloth method. I Scotch-Brite'd the bore as well. The piston was replaced with an OEM one. The base gasket was deleted and I verified my squish at 0.023". Carb limiters were removed, vacuum and pressure tests were done, muffler mod and a few other little trinkets were replaced to make sure everything was up to snuff.

Lest night I fired her up. It took about 6 pulls on choke because there had been zero fuel in it for some time. Everything seems to work very well and I am quite pleased.

I'll get a compression reading after it breaks in a bit with 4-5 tanks. I can already tell it's quite stout. Maybe I will grab a pic or two of the saw as well. She's a looker for sure. She could probably jus about pass off as a brand new 385XP.
Glad you got it fixed.
 
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