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385XP won't start

Riftweaver

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I have a new to me 385XP. I really don't know any of the history of it's previous life. It does appear to be in quite good condition.

It pulls over. It has compression (not sure how much because I haven't measured it). It has spark. I pulled the plug, grounded it and can see spark. It has fuel or at least looks like it. Obviously one of the afore mentioned is not proper but which one? Is there a spark tester to check the actual coil output? The plug does get wet but yet it won't even "pop" at all. The kill switch seems to work fine because I can halt the spark output with it.

Are there any known issues?

I'm good with trying anything.


Rift
 

Rotty781

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If you weren’t getting spark I’d say kill switch but if there’s spark I’m going with flywheel spun
 

Mattyo

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Does it pop at all with gas down throat?

Compression....fuel....spark ....timing. the basics. I had one similar and the flywheel had spun causing ignition timing to be off
 

Stump Shot

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I have a new to me 385XP. I really don't know any of the history of it's previous life. It does appear to be in quite good condition.

It pulls over. It has compression (not sure how much because I haven't measured it). It has spark. I pulled the plug, grounded it and can see spark. It has fuel or at least looks like it. Obviously one of the afore mentioned is not proper but which one? Is there a spark tester to check the actual coil output? The plug does get wet but yet it won't even "pop" at all. The kill switch seems to work fine because I can halt the spark output with it.

Are there any known issues?

I'm good with trying anything.


Rift

To answer your question, yes, there are numerous testers out there that give about a 5mm air gap for the spark to jump, this mimics what it has to do under compression. If it won't jump that far or is weak, colored other than a deep blue(white, orange, red) and doesn't have an audible snap when fired, then your coil is not putting out what it should.
To cut to the chase though, if your flywheel is good, then your coil is most likely bad being you have a wet plug. Assuming this is wetness is indeed flammable fuel and not old fuel that won't light.

Flywheel was my guess too. North Woods, isn't that @Stump Shot territory?

It's a big woods. :)
 

jacob j.

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It has fuel or at least looks like it.

Did you put fresh fuel in it or is it fuel that was in the saw when you got it? Have you pulled the muffler to confirm the piston is in good shape and the rings are free?

Have you eyeballed the diaphragms in the carb and made sure the impulse line is good and the carb is getting impulse?
 

Riftweaver

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Thanks for all of the reply's. I am waiting for the Husky flywheel puller to arrive to I can pull the flywheel and inspect. I have Stihl pullers but not Husky. I don't have a claw puller that would work either. I was an auto tech for many years but didn't need many types of claw pullers for that.

I did put fresh fuel in it. I also put a little right in the cylinder, never a pop. Also poured some in the intake and no joy either. Never did it even pop one time.

I can cause the spark to not exist if I flip over the kill switch. The switch should be ok.

Piston and cylinder are not scored. Supposedly it was freshly rebuilt with very low hours on it right before it was handed to me. I'll get to that story later.

As soon as the puller gets here, I'll get the flywheel off and I hope that is the culprit. It seems logical.
 

Duce

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Thanks for all of the reply's. I am waiting for the Husky flywheel puller to arrive to I can pull the flywheel and inspect. I have Stihl pullers but not Husky. I don't have a claw puller that would work either. I was an auto tech for many years but didn't need many types of claw pullers for that.

I did put fresh fuel in it. I also put a little right in the cylinder, never a pop. Also poured some in the intake and no joy either. Never did it even pop one time.

I can cause the spark to not exist if I flip over the kill switch. The switch should be ok.

Piston and cylinder are not scored. Supposedly it was freshly rebuilt with very low hours on it right before it was handed to me. I'll get to that story later.

As soon as the puller gets here, I'll get the flywheel off and I hope that is the culprit. It seems logical.
A cheap two long arm puller will work just fine.
 

angelo c

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Couple o long shots I done fought with...just for "left field" advice...

Take the plug out...turn saw upside down and pull on the recoil a few times. See if a butt load of fuel comes down( hopefully NOT down your face) should be black and sooty if it does. That'd mean it was flooded .
Also I had another tha showed the piston NOT scored on exhaust side but chipped and scored on intake ( filter was loose and ate something taking a chip out)
Not saying either are your issue, but when you've exhausted the "normal" look for "left field" stupid stuffs
 

Cooper264

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Get on the FT website, order a coil, cylinder kit, switch, flywheel, carb, filters, lines... The whole works.
Might as well buy a FT complete saw as a parts saw while your at it since its a huskie.

In all seriousness, check for flywheel issues and then head over to the fuel system then carb. If youve got some spark, your probably good to go in that department. It should get some sort of fire.

On the other hand, it is a huskie. If your in a pinch and need a working saw, throw a lit match in the plug hole and give er a few pulls. Should get some action.
 

stihl livin

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Get on the FT website, order a coil, cylinder kit, switch, flywheel, carb, filters, lines... The whole works.
Might as well buy a FT complete saw as a parts saw while your at it since its a huskie.

Didn’t you learn your lesson with the ft crap when trying to fix the 066. Oem is you best option. Ft maybe for some plastics but when it comes to important pieces go oem.
 
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