346NE vs 353 Cylinder

[tallfarmboy]

Howdy all! It's been forever since I've been on here... Anyway, I've got torched 346XP NE that has a decent scratch above the exhaust port.... I've got a couple of AM 353/350 cylinders with the 45mm bore and removable transfer covers. I've done some woods porting with those cylinders and have made some awesome running saws.
My question is this... for firewood cutting, which cylinder would you prefer? The 353 45mm cylinder with flat top piston or the 44.3mm 346xp NE cylinder? I will probably do a little porting to either cylinder that I put on it. I was just wondering if I would prefer one to the other. This will be a firewood saw, not a limbing saw... if that helps.

Feel free to add your input.
TFB

 

[cuinrearview]

I'd still prefer the 44.3mm top. I just went pretty far with an OEM 350 jug, maybe I'll like that better, but the NE top is fast but still plenty torquey. The quad port 45mm Hyway cylinder is interesting too. I think it could really run with some grinding.

 

[wcorey]

In my own experience, a ported 350/353 cylinder, while pretty impressive, is still only just right on the heels of a muff modded non ported 346 ne.

 

[beaglebriar]

I like my 353 well enough for small firewood duty. Ported with a welded pop up it runs pretty good. 346 ported is an animal though.

 

[Spike60]

The 353 cylinder is garbage and should be avoided. It has always had some kind of harmonic vibration that caused it and especially the 350 to spit out the muffler bolts. And if you are looking at OEM top ends, the 346 kit cost $30 less than the 353 kit. Kind of a no brainer.

 

[1990Husky262]

The 353 cylinder is garbage and should be avoided. It has always had some kind of harmonic vibration that caused it and especially the 350 to spit out the muffler bolts. And if you are looking at OEM top ends, the 346 kit cost $30 less than the 353 kit. Kind of a no brainer.

I was told years ago at a husqvarna service school that the vibrations were caused by engine over speeding due to carb being set to lean. Witch makes sense to me because i always made sure when they went out the door they were adjusted to 13000 rpm and i would also retourq the bolts to and i never really had any issues with the muffler bolts falling out had other issues with them but not the muffler bolt problem on saws i sold. But i would see it on saws sold through lowes or dealers that didn't adjust. I have also noticed over the years when you get a saw in that is missing bolts or has a bunch of loose bolts if you run them and put them on the tach they are usually way to lean. Not saying i am right just what i have observed over the years

 

[Spike60]

I was told years ago at a husqvarna service school that the vibrations were caused by engine over speeding due to carb being set to lean. Witch makes sense to me because i always made sure when they went out the door they were adjusted to 13000 rpm and i would also retourq the bolts to and i never really had any issues with the muffler bolts falling out had other issues with them but not the muffler bolt problem on saws i sold. But i would see it on saws sold through lowes or dealers that didn't adjust. I have also noticed over the years when you get a saw in that is missing bolts or has a bunch of loose bolts if you run them and put them on the tach they are usually way to lean. Not saying i am right just what i have observed over the years

I think they were only supposed to go to 12,500 to begin with. Funny thing is I was at a service school where they told us to turn them down to 12,000, to get out of that vibe zone. But the fact that it was talked about at length during those years, and that they even came out with a muffler that had a 3rd attachment point, shows that this problem was widespread enough that they were trying to find a solution. It was very widespread IMO; way too many saws had this problem. But it was essentially confined to the two models with that 45mm jug. Hardly ever saw it on the 340/345/346 or the early 44mm 350/351. They never really got a handle on it. And...…….we still see it. Just did this fix on a Jonsered 2150 this morning with that top end.

 

[Nutball]

mufflers coming loose is a common issue even on RC airplane gas engines. Maybe the port metal expands too much around the steel bolts, plus the leverage of torque vibration tugging on a not well supported muffler stretches the bolts allowing them to loosen.

 

[old guy]

mufflers coming loose is a common issue even on RC airplane gas engines. Maybe the port metal expands too much around the steel bolts, plus the leverage of torque vibration tugging on a not well supported muffler stretches the bolts allowing them to loosen.

When I tighten those muff bolts I check them again after first startup & shutdown, many times they will tighten a little more, then I check them again after running the saw and have not had any come loose.
Last week I tore down a 372 that I put together, the T handle allan wrench twisted a long way around before the bolts snapped loose with a loud SNAP that hurt my old wrist. If you make em tight they will stay tight.