.325 pitch on 357

[old guy]

The last few years I've picked up several 50cc saws with 18'' & 20'' bars & chains, most have been changed to 16''s. So what to do with the long bars?
I thought I would set up a 357xp to use them up. My 550xp came with a 20'' & a new .325 chain, I figure the 357 outta pull that no problem, but the smallest .325 rim available to fit 357 clutch is 9 pin which I have but the chain is too short to put that together.
So I pull the clutch & drum, rim & oil pump drive out of a 346, all this bolts rite on the 357, I bought an 8 pin rim & threw that on as this 357 should be strong enough to pull it. Today I was doing splitting and needed to noodle some gnarly stuff so out came the 357 & it worked really well, it seemed to put it rite on the power band, for a little while, then it seemed sluggish, the chain looked still sharp, then I noticed it was also dry, no oil.
Disassembly showed that the 346 drum bearing rurface was about 1/16'' shorter than the 357 drum, not allowing the splines to properly engage the oil pump. I bored out a washer to take up the space, we will see how that works.

 

[Ktoom]

I just went through this same scenario. I did just like you, I took the clutch drum/oil pump gear off of my 2153 and put it on the 357xp. If I remember correctly, the worm gear is shorter on the 346/2153. I ended up ordering a different clutch drum to start. Then order the smaller oil pump gear that is made for the 357xp. After that I could run the 7 and 8 pin rims.

 

[old guy]

My worm gears seem to be the same thickness but the clutch drums are a little different. HL has an after market drum listed for 351- 353- 346- 357-59, I got one coming.

 

[Ktoom]

Yea, I remember the clutch drums were a different thickness as well. Im trying remember my observations, but its been a while lol. I believe the worm gear opening on the 346, where the crank goes through, was a different diameter and not a tight fit like the 357 gear.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Good info, I run 18" 3/8 on my MMWS 357xp, just put a Sugi Hari on it, I like a 18" better, just need an 8 pin yet, my dealer was out.

 

[Locust Cutter]

A 357xp with a 7-pin running 3/8" chain should cut similarly to an 8-pin rim running .325". .325 may run more smoothly, but 3/8" may be more forgiving in certain circumstances. If I was doing more small limbing I'd be inclined to do .325 but in 6"+ wood, I think I'd go with .375.

 

[Derf]

Why not just put an extra link in the chain?

 

[old guy]

Why not just put an extra link in the chain?

I did give that some thought, but the object is to use up several bars & chains on this saw, the reality is if I used this one saw for all the little cutting I do any more it will take 10 years to do that.
So this then is an effort at education and to keep busy and maybe pass on anything I might learn.
When this chain stretches a little I will give it a try on the other clutch with the 9 pin.

 

[Dub11]

Thought about shorting the bar up to run the 9 pin?

 

[old guy]

Thought about shorting the bar up to run the 9 pin?

Yeah, wouldn't take much, the stud was at the end of the slot too, would have to file that, I don't remember about the adjuster hole.

 

[Dub11]

I did that to a small mount husky bar it was 20" .058ga .325. That had seen better days it was closer to .063 so I clean it up and cut down the tail so I could run a 74dl .063 .325 that I had an abundance of.

 

[XP_Slinger]

So how did the .325 compare to 3/8 in the cut? I've considered doing the same thing with my 357 but always wondered if it would be worth the effort. I've been running a square filed chain on mine and I really like it. You said it put the saw right in its power; was that an improvement over 3/8? Thanks

 

[Spike60]

The 357 and 2156 were available from the factory set up for .325. In fact, when the 2156 first came out, Tilton only sold it with .325. I have a 2156WH with this set up. But the 357 was far more popular with 3/8, so eventually Tilton added the 3/8 option.

There is a specific drum and oil gear that is available for saws on that chassis and should be used if you want to run .325. I think the factory set them up with 7's, but running an 8 with that set up is really the best way to go. That is a real nice combo IMO.

The .325 vs 3/8 debate doesn't even matter here, as the idea is to make use of those 18" and 20" .325 bars and chains. So, the original idea makes a lot of sense. But I think you'll need the proper OEM parts for everything to work correctly.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Bob that's why you ARE the man! Thanks for clearing that up for us, good to know there are specific parts available. He ships fast to fellas!

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I happen to have a 9 pin .325 rim in my bag of tricks. It is quite large, and I suppose pretty tough for a 20. May be OK on the 18? Is this saw ported?

 

[Spike60]

Bob that's why you ARE the man! Thanks for clearing that up for us, good to know there are specific parts available. He ships fast to fellas!

Thanks Dustin; but I goofed up a little on this one.

I did a little research on this. The clutch drum needed is in fact the same as used on the 346, so the one ordered from Hyway should work. What's different is that it allows the use of the small spline 7 and 8 pin rims. It's the oil gear that is specific to the 357 chassis that is needed to make this conversion work properly. Part number for that gear is 503 912 703

 

[Dub11]

I happen to have a 9 pin .325 rim in my bag of tricks. It is quite large, and I suppose pretty tough for a 20. May be OK on the 18? Is this saw ported?

I got a 9 pin too meant to get the small but I ordered standard. Going to put it on my 670see how it does.

 

[old guy]

Spike60, thanks for the information, I did take that set up off & saw that oil pump drive was not rite.
I did find another bar & chain on the wall that fit the nine pin rim and did some noodling, this is a stock saw & the gearing seemed just a bit much.
Thanks again for the part #, my dealer is only a mile up the road, I'm sure he wonders where I get all these part#s.

 

[davidwyby]

The 357 and 2156 were available from the factory set up for .325. In fact, when the 2156 first came out, Tilton only sold it with .325. I have a 2156WH with this set up. But the 357 was far more popular with 3/8, so eventually Tilton added the 3/8 option.

There is a specific drum and oil gear that is available for saws on that chassis and should be used if you want to run .325. I think the factory set them up with 7's, but running an 8 with that set up is really the best way to go. That is a real nice combo IMO.

The .325 vs 3/8 debate doesn't even matter here, as the idea is to make use of those 18" and 20" .325 bars and chains. So, the original idea makes a lot of sense. But I think you'll need the proper OEM parts for everything to work correctly.

I just melted/stripped the second plastic worm since I’ve owned mine. I looked up the IPL and saw the different PNs for the 3/8” vs. .325”. I checked and it looks like I have all 3/8” parts on the saw and was running 3/8” when it smoked but I had been running .325” -9. Can you enlighten as to what and why the different parts for the different chains…and why mine might be going thru worms? Thanks

oh, I’ve also had an issue with one shoe of the clutch tipping to the inside and locking the drum up. New clutch Assy and it has some light drag in a couple spots.

 

[davidwyby]

I have a 359 now too and the clutch on it tings like a 288…