MS251 Meltdown

[Paul Fithian]

Our SIL's MS 251 siezed up when running. Brake was stuck and the clutch was locked.

It appears this one had a clutch drum needle bearing failure, allowed the drum to shift position, and melt a bunch of plastic nearby:


I was able to dig most of the junk out and clean it up, all looks good to reassemble


Saw fired right up and ran perfect, plug shows a good burn pattern also.

New OEM parts ordered. Any other advice before re-assembly?

 

[huskihl]

The damage is likely from extended periods of warm-up time on high idle with the brake applied

 

[bogieboy]

The damage is likely from extended periods of warm-up time on high idle with the brake applied

As a certified stihl tech.... this....right.....HERE......brake band and clutch bell blueing is the dead giveaway... if theres enough heat to turn the steel of the brake band blue, it got over 650°F... that doesnt happen unless the clutch is engaging, and trying to spin the clutch bell....

 

[Oldbuzzard]

The damage is likely from extended periods of warm-up time on high idle with the brake applied

Exactly. I see this routinely from a volunteer group that trains people to use chainsaws. I’m getting them to switch to 261s.

 

[huskihl]

Exactly. I see this routinely from a volunteer group that trains people to use chainsaws. I’m getting them to switch to 261s.

If they do it on a 251 it melts some plastic. If they do that same thing to a 261, the heat transfer through the magnesium will take out the seal as well as burning some plastic.
They need taught not to leave it on high idle

 

[Paul Fithian]

Thanks fellas!

Could this type of overheating happen if running and the bearing starts to degrade gradually, without the long term high idle with the brake on?

 

[sawmikaze]

I was gonna say..

Switching to a 261 doesn't eliminate the problem.

 

[huskihl]

Thanks fellas!

Could this type of overheating happen if running and the bearing starts to degrade gradually, without the long term high idle with the brake on?

Something smoked the bearing. But the bearing going bad didn’t cause all the black melted plastic. Even clutch slippage doesn’t melt plastic like that without the brake being on

 

[Paul Fithian]

Parts showed up yesterday and put it all back together. Found that the brake cover was contacting the clutch drum, caused by some melted scar tissue that had to be removed:



All back together with no interference, runs perfect



I advised owner not to let it idle or rev with the brake on

 

[Gearshifter]

Parts showed up yesterday and put it all back together. Found that the brake cover was contacting the clutch drum, caused by some melted scar tissue that had to be removed:
View attachment 417051
View attachment 417052

All back together with no interference, runs perfect
View attachment 417053


I advised owner not to let it idle or rev with the brake on

Love this site, post a picture and people know exactly what has happened and why .
The owner of the saw will probably tell u he hasn't done as people have stated in the posts above , but the evidence is clear

 

[Paul Fithian]

Love this site, post a picture and people know exactly what has happened and why .
The owner of the saw will probably tell u he hasn't done as people have stated in the posts above , but the evidence is clear

He already did!

 

[FergusonTO35]

Are those 251's decent other than user induced problems? Thinking about adding one to the arsenal since I use this size saw the most.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Are those 251's decent other than user induced problems? Thinking about adding one to the arsenal since I use this size saw the most.

Only trouble I have had with mine is that it tends to flood easily from a cold start after being primed and then pulled a couple of times on choke. Other than that, it runs perfectly after I get it started.

 

[Shane¹]

Are those 251's decent other than user induced problems? Thinking about adding one to the arsenal since I use this size saw the most.

How come you would get rid of the 261 and buy a 251? 261 is lighter and more power and a pro saw vs homeowner

 

[FergusonTO35]

I use saws of this size mostly. As it is, I don't even exercise my Echo CS-500P that much. I don't have to get rid of the 261 by any means.

 

[Tomos770]

How come you would get rid of the 261 and buy a 251? 261 is lighter and more power and a pro saw vs homeowner

As a Husq 450mk2 and 550xpmk2 user....

You dont need a power of 550xp to cut branches or to do chores around your home....

 

[FergusonTO35]

My 261 feels fairly heavy, more so than the 251's I've looked at. In fact its noticeably heavier and more bulky than my Echo CS-500P. Don't get me wrong, it is a great saw and I'm not going to let it go for less than I have in it. But it just sits while the other saws get used. Central KY has very little old growth forest, most of our trees aren't terribly big. A 50cc saw of any type will handle anything on my place, in fact a 40cc is ideal for most stuff I cut.

 

[bogieboy]

As a Husq 450mk2 and 550xpmk2 user....

You dont need a power of 550xp to cut branches or to do chores around your home....

What next... youre gonna tell me that because i live in an apartment, i dont need either of my ported stihls that i have for fun, an 044 and a ms661?

 

[Tomos770]

These two are too big saws for someone who is living in an apartment!

Try either to buy/rent a house....

Or change them for some top handle model...

 

[bogieboy]

These two are too big saws for someone who is living in an apartment!

Try either to buy/rent a house....

Or change them for some top handle model...

Oh, i got a muffler modded/timing advanced ms194t, mildly ported ms201t, a bone stock ms170, muffler modded ms280c, a br600, and an fs130 as well...

Perks of being a stihl mechanic....i get the "unrepairables" (which become considerably more affordable to repair with parts at cost, and free labor)