325 chains.. is this just how they are? Or is something wrong?

[Philbert]

I noticed you mentioned you got rid of your granberg file guide after you got a grinder. Do you do all your sharpening with that now? I thought folks who know how to sharpen by hand tend to poo-poo grinder results.

If you follow that thread, you will read that I reconsidered those guides: I now have more than a dozen of them! A bunch of different versions.

I have also tried and collected a variety of other guides, grinders, sharpening devices, etc. Just became a personal interest.

Different people have different needs: I sharpen a lot of chains for volunteers who clean up storm damage. Used hard. I use a grinder for those, but touch up chains in the field with a file (yes, it can be done that way).

Some people get offended if you don't sharpen like they do. I don't care. Find something that works for you. If you ask for advice, I am happy to share my comments.

Key thing is to know what you are trying to accomplish: what a 'sharp' cutter should look like. If you know that, you can get there lots of ways. If you are not getting those results, it might be time change what you are doing, or ask for advice.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Not to start a grinder-vs-hand filing debate, but.........

Yeah. Separate thread.

Philbert

 

[Deets066]

View attachment 155741

Here is some hook. Maybe too much?

This is “too much”

 

[Deets066]

These ain’t bad

 

[J. Loe]

View attachment 155756
These ain’t bad

Those for softwood cants?

Looks pretty hooky for hardwoods no?

 

[huskihl]

With semi, (chipper is worse yet), if you want any hook at all you have to keep the file low in the gullet. I never really noticed this until I set up my round grinder to make a really nice looking full chisel cutter. The 1st time I ground semi I had no hook. Now when I grind semi, I lean the grinder over 5° further and grind a little deeper into the gullet

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Not to start a grinder-vs-hand filing debate, but.........

I have an Oregon 620 grinder that I impulse-bought 2 weeks ago, still new in the box. I was going to return it because I was having a hard time justifying it, thinking hand results would be better. Maybe I should learn to use it and give it a shot instead of all these file guides?

I know that hand filing will produce more of a razor edge, and that makes sense for a knife. But for a cutter that's flying through hardwood, that paper-thin edge is gone in seconds. I would think getting the cutter shape right (and consistent!) is more important, and a grinder is pretty decent at that.

Best Answer

 

[Deets066]

Those for softwood cants?

Looks pretty hooky for hardwoods no?

Not for cants, gunna see what happens in frozen red oak.
Not the top pic

 

[J. Loe]

Not for cants, gunna see what happens in frozen red oak.
Not the top pic

Send it!

 

[XP_Slinger]

OP...think of the cutters as you would any knife you sharpen. The pic of the blunt, no hook cutter you posted early in his thread will cut and likely last a long time but it will not cut fast. Just like a knife, a wider bevel will last longer but not cut as well as a finer bevel. Big difference in the chain is having to align 2 different angles. Pretty much understood by all in here but figured I’d draw that parallel.

Just as important, if not more so, is the raker depth. You can have the best cutters in the world but if your rakers aren’t right it will cut like *s-worde. Too tall and you have to push hard, too short and it will chatter and stall the clutch. If the chain isn’t feeding the way you want it to (having to push) take a couple strokes of the rakers. A gage is handy but not completely necessary. Experiment until you find the feel you’re looking for, small changes go a long way on the rakers. With all the filing you’ve done on your cutters, it’s going to feed worse than it did before.

Some have already said it and I agree, that semi-chisel chain isn’t helping you if you’re wanting speed.

 

[Wood Chopper]

If you follow that thread, you will read that I reconsidered those guides: I now have more than a dozen of them! A bunch of different versions.

I have also tried and collected a variety of other guides, grinders, sharpening devices, etc. Just became a personal interest.

Different people have different needs: I sharpen a lot of chains for volunteers who clean up storm damage. Used hard. I use a grinder for those, but touch up chains in the field with a file (yes, it can be done that way).

Some people get offended if you don't sharpen like they do. I don't care. Find something that works for you. If you ask for advice, I am happy to share my comments.

Key thing is to know what you are trying to accomplish: what a 'sharp' cutter should look like. If you know that, you can get there lots of ways. If you are not getting those results, it might be time change what you are doing, or ask for advice.

Philbert

Well said Philbert. It wasn’t until recently that I made improvements because of reading from knowledge here that I finally knew what I was looking for and had a goal to aim for. Are use my two and one filed occasionally but I think I can finally free hand better


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[concretegrazer]

Not to start a grinder-vs-hand filing debate, but.........

I have an Oregon 620 grinder that I impulse-bought 2 weeks ago, still new in the box. I was going to return it because I was having a hard time justifying it, thinking hand results would be better. Maybe I should learn to use it and give it a shot instead of all these file guides?

I know that hand filing will produce more of a razor edge, and that makes sense for a knife. But for a cutter that's flying through hardwood, that paper-thin edge is gone in seconds. I would think getting the cutter shape right (and consistent!) is more important, and a grinder is pretty decent at that.

A ground chain can be just as sharp as a filed. It all depends on the operator. Pick your method and learn it. Heck be like Philbert & learn them all.

 

[RI Chevy]

I use the 2in1 file. But not for every touchup.
I use the 2in1 about every 3rd or 4th sharpening. I use tge regular guides and fre file. All depends on what the cutter looks like. I also go by feel when the saw is cutting. If it doesn't self feed goid enough I go 1 or 2 strokes on the raker.
Really just user preference and experience.
Others on here are much more adept than I.

Anyone who wants to throw away throw away their 2in1 files, send them to me please.

 

[Steve]

I use the 2in1 file. But not for every touchup.
I use the 2in1 about every 3rd or 4th sharpening. I use tge regular guides and fre file. All depends on what the cutter looks like. I also go by feel when the saw is cutting. If it doesn't self feed goid enough I go 1 or 2 strokes on the raker.
Really just user preference and experience.
Others on here are much more adept than I.

Anyone who wants to throw away throw away their 2in1 files, send them to me please.

Ok, you got me. I didnt throw mine away. I returned it. Them things are 50 bucks!

 

[Basher]

I use the 2in1 file. But not for every touchup.
I use the 2in1 about every 3rd or 4th sharpening. I use tge regular guides and fre file. All depends on what the cutter looks like. I also go by feel when the saw is cutting. If it doesn't self feed goid enough I go 1 or 2 strokes on the raker.
Really just user preference and experience.
Others on here are much more adept than I.

Anyone who wants to throw away throw away their 2in1 files, send them to me please.

Once you reach the stage where you can feel what the chain is doing you are well on your way to actually tuning the chain for the wood and conditions being cut in. Some never learn the art even though they make/made their living with a saw, very dependent on ones expectations and abilities.

 

[Basher]

I know many cutters that use guides, they suck at free hand filing but the guides give them better cutting chains than they can do free hand so guides are useful to them. I set up each new guy to hand filing with a clamp on guide, it helps get them started and with lots of patience and time an odd one actually becomes quite good at free handing. Anyone can attain good results if they practice and have the attitude to improve constantly.I really cannot see anyone getting real good though if they don`t actually cut with a saw under all weather conditions in varying types of wood.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Once you reach the stage where you can feel what the chain is doing you are well on your way to actually tuning the chain for the wood and conditions being cut in. Some never learn the art even though they make/made their living with a saw, very dependent on ones expectations and abilities.

Exactly, well said. I knew a guy who thought that a chain making dust rather than chips was fine. Saw didn’t last long.

 

[Basher]

Exactly, well said. I knew a guy who thought that a chain making dust rather than chips was fine. Saw didn’t last long.

Yes, I have seen way more dull saws run than sharp well cutting ones and I worked in an environment where saws made guys their living. Good cutting saws were not the total norm but as long as the poor cutting saws could be pushed hard enough to lets say grind their way through a cut then that`s what they did.

 

[RI Chevy]

I use this setup in the field. Really helped my sharpening technique.

 

[rumatt]

Pick your method and learn it. Heck be like Philbert & learn them all.

Hah. That's probably going to be what happens.