2012 372 xtorq tuning problems

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I've got a 372 that I can't get to tune right curious on ideas. All parts I've replaced are OEM. Which includes carburetor coil metering hose bushing oring on oil pump side piston and a ngk bmr6a gapped at .25 high setting tunes like a dream low side i can back the screw completely out then thread on enough so its not falling out the saw will cold start with screw like that plus i can flip it on its sides or top or do a dump test and it remain idling the same even with screw in to almost 1 turn out. Carburetor walbro rwj4 has been taken apart and cleaned and metering lever is set properly. Any ideas where to go next?

 

[cuinrearview]

I've got a 372 that I can't get to tune right curious on ideas. All parts I've replaced are OEM. Which includes carburetor coil metering hose bushing oring on oil pump side piston and a ngk bmr6a gapped at .25 high setting tunes like a dream low side i can back the screw completely out then thread on enough so its not falling out the saw will cold start with screw like that plus i can flip it on its sides or top or do a dump test and it remain idling the same even with screw in to almost 1 turn out. Carburetor walbro rwj4 has been taken apart and cleaned and metering lever is set properly. Any ideas where to go next?

Yer plug is cold, and I'm not sure what a coil metering hose bushing is on a 372. Slow down and start over. Use more punctuation and grammar. Please.

 

[Woodwackr]

Plug should be BPMR7A if NGK and gapped to .020
Start both screws to 1 turn out and adjust from there. If either needs more than a 1/2 turn there is something stuck in the carb.

 

[Czed]

Not all carbs can be saved do you have another to try?

 

[Czed]

I've got a 372 that I can't get to tune right curious on ideas. All parts I've replaced are OEM. Which includes carburetor coil metering hose bushing oring on oil pump side piston and a ngk bmr6a gapped at .25 high setting tunes like a dream low side i can back the screw completely out then thread on enough so its not falling out the saw will cold start with screw like that plus i can flip it on its sides or top or do a dump test and it remain idling the same even with screw in to almost 1 turn out. Carburetor walbro rwj4 has been taken apart and cleaned and metering lever is set properly. Any ideas where to go next?

I put motoseal on the inside of the boot and a little on all intake surfaces to eliminate the possibility of air leaks.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Plug should be BPMR7A if NGK and gapped to .020
Start both screws to 1 turn out and adjust from there. If either needs more than a 1/2 turn there is something stuck in the carb.

The bpmr7a and 6a are identical, the difference between the 2 is 6a burns a little bit hotter. Husqvarna recommend 6a to me when i contacted them. Same plug and gap that I use in all my saws.

I put motoseal on the inside of the boot and a little on all intake surfaces to eliminate the possibility of air leaks.

Sorry was extremely exhausted and running out of day light so I was rushing. I think I might have figured out the problem. I didn't mean metering hose I ment impulse hose. The Carburetor is a brand new walbro rwj4. I pulled it apart and cleaned everything. Old friend who taught me how to work on carbs told me to always pull the carburetor apart and clean everything and check metering lever is set right. Because there is no guarantee dust didn't find its way into the carb when in the warehouse. As for the problem I think it might be the oil pump mounting bolts lack sealant. I know I'm new to saws and 2 strokes in general but that seems like such a *s-word design. Why have the oil pump bolt holes go through the crank case? What the hell does that benefit? My most frequently spoken words when working on cars is, I *f-wording HATE engineers!! Looks like it's going to be the same with saws..

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

So I have tried it since adding sealant to the oring on the clutch side and to the oil pump screws. no good. I even tried the brake clean method that I saw bell hopper do. Nothing. Tried a new plug also. I currently am dead broke at the moment and won't be able to afford a pressure pump/vacuum tester until the 21st. I've still got a lot of wood that needs to be cut and I'd rather not do it with my dad's electric. I don't know if I read this one post right but does the blue coil really make tuning the saw that difficult? Should I try the black one as long as I keep a tach on it for the high revs? Or will the black one not work on a xtorq? Sorry for all the questions I'm just frustrated.

 

[Michael Rupley]

I feel your pain man. Why did you replace so many things? What does it do that is so out of tune? You seem to have a low speed but high speed is lacking. Is the fuel filter clean? How about the pulse hose? Is it kinked, split or loose on the barb? Does it have the old mix? Clean out the original carb and set it at 1 1/4 on both needles. Put that on and try. The 372 is one of Huskys best saws. It is worth messing with.

 

[mrxlh]

So what exactly is the saw doing abnormally, or what is the saw not doing?

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

So what exactly is the saw doing abnormally, or what is the saw not doing?

It is idling like a bag of popcorn in the microwave. Spartic as hell. Brake clean tested all the seals nothing changed. New carburetor and plug,tried 3 different coils 1 black unlimited 2 blue limited. Pressure and vacuum tested. Can't get the fricking thing to idle right

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I feel your pain man. Why did you replace so many things? What does it do that is so out of tune? You seem to have a low speed but high speed is lacking. Is the fuel filter clean? How about the pulse hose? Is it kinked, split or loose on the barb? Does it have the old mix? Clean out the original carb and set it at 1 1/4 on both needles. Put that on and try. The 372 is one of Huskys best saws. It is worth messing with.

I'll apologize first for this comment because I know I'm freaking out and would just like something to go in my favor. But Ya I know it's why I keep putting so much time into trying to figure it out. I'mpulse hose is new, fuel filter is clean, both new and old carbs have been cleaned and metering lever set to what the walbro gauge calls for. Like I said to the post below this one it idles like a bag of popcorn in the microwave. High speed jet tunes just fine low doesn't have a smooth idle no matter how far in or out I turn the screw. I feel like this is going to be something so stupid when I find out what it is. I replaced so many things because I'm an amateur *pretty boy! I had all these new parts because I was going to slowly turn a holzfforma pro into a OEM 372. But then out of the blue this saw shows up in my life 250$ running but running lean. I bought the saw used which dude before me I feel like never did any maintenance other than air filter and spark plug. There was caked sawdust everywhere. I did a very small port job to it but nothing crazy mainly used that opportunity to clean all the carbon. As for fuel I use only fresh VP non ethanol with Husqvarna XP oil 40:1

 

[Woodwackr]

I'll apologize first for this comment because I know I'm freaking out and would just like something to go in my favor. But Ya I know it's why I keep putting so much time into trying to figure it out. I'mpulse hose is new, fuel filter is clean, both new and old carbs have been cleaned and metering lever set to what the walbro gauge calls for. Like I said to the post below this one it idles like a bag of popcorn in the microwave. High speed jet tunes just fine low doesn't have a smooth idle no matter how far in or out I turn the screw. I feel like this is going to be something so stupid when I find out what it is. I replaced so many things because I'm an amateur *pretty boy! I had all these new parts because I was going to slowly turn a holzfforma pro into a OEM 372. But then out of the blue this saw shows up in my life 250$ running but running lean. I bought the saw used which dude before me I feel like never did any maintenance other than air filter and spark plug. There was caked sawdust everywhere. I did a very small port job to it but nothing crazy mainly used that opportunity to clean all the carbon. As for fuel I use only fresh VP non ethanol with Husqvarna XP oil 40:1

dumb question...did you install the H and L screws back into their correct holes when reassembling the carbs?

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Yes. I'm pretty sure the longer one would have snapped off by this point with how many times I've tried to start over on it. I mean from seated.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Hold up did this site censor my cussing? That's funny

 

[mrxlh]

It is idling like a bag of popcorn in the microwave. Spartic as hell. Brake clean tested all the seals nothing changed. New carburetor and plug,tried 3 different coils 1 black unlimited 2 blue limited. Pressure and vacuum tested. Can't get the fricking thing to idle right

Ok now that we know what the problem is, make sure the divider is installed correctly in the intake boot, if not it will never idle correctly and some came from the factory not installed properly. Swap to the correct spark plug and set the low jet 1 turn from seated. Back off the idle stop screw until the throttle lever is not touching and just adjust it until makes contact.

Get the saw started and let idle level for several seconds, tip it forward, if it stumbles turn the l jet in a tad, repeat until it runs normal while tipping forward. Adjust idle with a tach to 2800 RPM.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I've done all this. I've even got a 2nd intake boot and air filter holder that I've gutted to see if that makes any difference. To no avail. Spark plugs I've tried 3 ngk bpmr7a,bpmr6a and a e3 all tested with different gaps starting at .020. ignition coils have been set at the factory recommended air gap. Could a leak in the gas tank cap or maybe the vent cause this kind of problem??

 

[Czed]

I've done all this. I've even got a 2nd intake boot and air filter holder that I've gutted to see if that makes any difference. To no avail. Spark plugs I've tried 3 ngk bpmr7a,bpmr6a and a e3 all tested with different gaps starting at .020. ignition coils have been set at the factory recommended air gap. Could a leak in the gas tank cap or maybe the vent cause this kind of problem??

Leaking base gasket will

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I've replaced that twice now 1st time dry 2nd time with moto seal. The 1st did cut out when I sprayed brake clean on the clutch side. I just got another carb rebuild kit a complete one. not 1 with just diaphragms and gaskets this one had metering float pin thingy lol the lever and spring and with new screen. I just installed all of in so maybe but idk

 

[Czed]

I've replaced that twice now 1st time dry 2nd time with moto seal. The 1st did cut out when I sprayed brake clean on the clutch side. I just got another carb rebuild kit a complete one. not 1 with just diaphragms and gaskets this one had metering float pin thingy lol the lever and spring and with new screen. I just installed all of in so maybe but idk

Send it to one of these guy's to get ported
Tell them it ran fine when it left your house.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Nah I couldn't ever bring myself to do something like that...... The Carburetor rebuild helped a bit. I tilted the saw chain down nothing then on clutch side nothing then flywheel side nothing. Not untill now did my smart ass ever decide to tilt it handle to the ground it leaned out when I did that.