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1988 Ford F-150 Resto Thread!

Steve

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Update on the truck. Have about 3500 miles on it since completion. Now that it has warmed up outside the truck is running warm with the AC on. Never overheats but runs about 215-220°f. Tried a few things with no change. Started looking at ipls and found the water pump pulleys are different on an AC equiped truck. Went to the salvage yard yesterday and got a pulley and needless to say there was a huge difference in diameter. Noticed two 300 trucks that have ac had a seven blade fan vs. Five so got a fan too. Put a new fan clutch on there aswell. Once the rain quits and the sun comes out its supposed to be stupid humid and hot. We'll see how she does now.


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Dustin4185

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That is the problem. I was pushed into another truck during a rear end collision. I just robbed parts off another truck and mine started running warm as well. Compared parts and realized I went from a 7 blade to 5 blade fan. I kept my big pulley though.
 

Dub11

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You know thats the "engineer" type *s-word that drives me nuts! Why not just install the more better stuff from the get go to streamline manufacturing in the first place.
 

Steve

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You know thats the "engineer" type *s-word that drives me nuts! Why not just install the more better stuff from the get go to streamline manufacturing in the first place.


Cause you get more mpgs with less parasitic drag. Even in 1988 epa was on peoples cases. Trust me, manufactures would love just manufacture one part number across the board for all vehicles.
 

Bigmac

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Cause you get more mpgs with less parasitic drag. Even in 1988 epa was on peoples cases. Trust me, manufactures would love just manufacture one part number across the board for all vehicles.
That is true, my 81 gmc has a 3 blade fan and gets great mpg, I need to concert my 03 to electric! I was watching YouTube and they dyno’ed a bunch of different fans on a sbc and there was a 40hp difference between some!! My camro had emission stuff on it in 68!
 

redline4

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Update on the truck. Have about 3500 miles on it since completion. Now that it has warmed up outside the truck is running warm with the AC on. Never overheats but runs about 215-220°f. Tried a few things with no change. Started looking at ipls and found the water pump pulleys are different on an AC equiped truck. Went to the salvage yard yesterday and got a pulley and needless to say there was a huge difference in diameter. Noticed two 300 trucks that have ac had a seven blade fan vs. Five so got a fan too. Put a new fan clutch on there aswell. Once the rain quits and the sun comes out its supposed to be stupid humid and hot. We'll see how she does now.


View attachment 187499 View attachment 187500 View attachment 187501 View attachment 187502

Are the radiators the same between an a/c truck and a non a/c truck?
 

Steve

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Are the radiators the same between an a/c truck and a non a/c truck?

Yes and no. Aftermarket books say 2 core for ac and single core for non ac. Every truck i see with an original radiator has the single core with ac. I was getting low cooling through it. Truck already had the 2 core in it. Put the single core in it thinking that the pump couldnt supply enough volume to push it through the 2 core. No change either way hot or cool. Today with the new fan and pulley it stayed where it is suppost to! I believe i got it right. Will put the 2 core rad back in next week and see how it does now that i got the coolant flowing properly.

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When it gets warm it stays on the M almost to the A.
 

Dustin4185

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I put a two core in my 1995 after the accident and the fan rubbed a hole in it when I turned on a woods road. Went back to the single core.
 

Steve

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Updated on my cooling system. Took the truck last week on a 400 mile day trip to pick up a kayak i found on Craigslist. Drove half the trip on the interstate sustaining 70mph plus for 45 minutes before exiting for some back roads to get to anothe interstate to travel again 70mph plus for 30 minutes. Had the AC on the entire time. Temperature gauge barely touched the "R" on the gauge wich is right at 205 when checked with my real gauge. Temp is right where it should be.

So the combination im running is a 5in water pump pulley, 7 blade fan, and 2 row radiator with proper shroud. Even today at 100 degrees temp stayed perfect and the AC vent temp was 52! I can live with that.

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Kiwioilboiler

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Read the whole thing while you had a nana nap there @Steve . Fantastic tale of a real world build mate.
As if to prove my engagement, here comes the obligatory off camber Kiwi question....your truck would be considered pretty rare here.

So they are 4wd, with an independent front end. But the front diff head is mounted to a long swinging arm hinged on the opposite chassis rail, and criss crosses with another swinging arm mounted to the opposite chassis rail?

So,.....camber by eccentric bushes in the cross chassis swinging arms, and maybe caster by threaded rod adjustment on a triangulated bar from outer end of arm diagonally back to the frame?

Adam.
 

Steve

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Read the whole thing while you had a nana nap there @Steve . Fantastic tale of a real world build mate.
As if to prove my engagement, here comes the obligatory off camber Kiwi question....your truck would be considered pretty rare here.

So they are 4wd, with an independent front end. But the front diff head is mounted to a long swinging arm hinged on the opposite chassis rail, and criss crosses with another swinging arm mounted to the opposite chassis rail?

So,.....camber by eccentric bushes in the cross chassis swinging arms, and maybe caster by threaded rod adjustment on a triangulated bar from outer end of arm diagonally back to the frame?

Adam.

Camber and caster is both set with a single offset bushing in the swing arm. To set it you first start with a zero degree bushing that sets the upper ball joint in a parallel position in the bushing bore. Sweep for measurements, then you see how much change you need for each angle. The bushing you use is offset for the approximate change. Twisting the bushing in the bore can change both angles slightly to fine tune. It's a balance act between the two.


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Mastermind

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Read the whole thing while you had a nana nap there @Steve . Fantastic tale of a real world build mate.
As if to prove my engagement, here comes the obligatory off camber Kiwi question....your truck would be considered pretty rare here.

So they are 4wd, with an independent front end. But the front diff head is mounted to a long swinging arm hinged on the opposite chassis rail, and criss crosses with another swinging arm mounted to the opposite chassis rail?

So,.....camber by eccentric bushes in the cross chassis swinging arms, and maybe caster by threaded rod adjustment on a triangulated bar from outer end of arm diagonally back to the frame?

Adam.

My 83 F350 is mu
My 8
Camber and caster is both set with a single offset bushing in the swing arm. To set it you first start with a zero degree bushing that sets the upper ball joint in a parallel position in the bushing bore. Sweep for measurements, then you see how much change you need for each angle. The bushing you use is offset for the approximate change. Twisting the bushing in the bore can change both angles slightly to fine tune. It's a balance act between the two.


View attachment 301776

How about my 83 F350 2wd? Same setup?
 
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