064 pipe saw

[Definitive Dave]

I got this a few weeks back and finally had a chance to assemble it today.
Early Mahle 54mm 066 Cylinder was the donor Jug and it was built by Ridley Saws in California before he retired.


I added the D ring handle with padding and I still couldn't pull it enough to get the compression reading up but it felt ridiculously stout. I couldn't get more than 2/3 pull on it even drop starting.



I put a syringe of mix down the throat and pushed the decomp but couldn't get it to pop.
The decomp popped up at less than a foot of cord pulled out and I couldn't get a full pull.
At this point my shoulder is fine, I can drop start the mighty 084 no problem.

WJ6A carb with no choke, in restrospect I may have flooded it with too much prime.

I checked the coil and flywheel (which has no cooling fins) and they are both OEM unlimited for the 064.
I regapped the coil with the OEM Tool.

 

[Definitive Dave]

could not see a flywheel key before I removed the flywheel and it was stuck enough I had to use two wrenches to pop it off with the puller, never had one stuck like that before, and once off the key was in the crank
neither the key nor the key way appear to be filed or modified, though maybe it way press fit on in an advanced position over the key and then tightened?


It has spark but only if you pull it over very rapidly, I was only able to pull it that fast with the decomp valve removed.
Pulling over slowly it didn't feel smooth (not like a compression stroke) almost like something was catching or binding.
Time to pull the head

The scratches are likely from me checking squish with .031 solder but I go uneven readings (I wonder why)

 

[Definitive Dave]

dinner time, more later

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

I can't wait to see it run.
This would be a perfect one to use a poly flywheel.

 

[Definitive Dave]

No sign of damage from the decomp valve or plug.



On the upstroke the piston seems to catch right here.



Time to yank the carb and cylinder
No gasket and no sealant ?!?!
Vertical scratches on the intake and exhaust sides of the piston but the rings look fine.


Also some wear on the intake piston skirt

 

[Definitive Dave]

Seems like the crank is hitting the crankcase on both sides, maybe the case wasn't clearance well for the larger slug n jug??


The flywheel didn't rotate freely with the jug removed and I tracked it back to the flywheel not being symmetrical anymore.
The counterweight side opposite the magnets that were gapped dragged the coil on every revolution pretty badly.
With the coil removed it rotates fine.

Removing the pipe did not make it any easier to pull over.

All kinds of possibilities run through my mind at this point.
the big end bearing feels good but the piston can move laterally a lot and I wonder if it is actually catching on the crankcase at the bottom of the stroke.

 

[Definitive Dave]

I plan to reassemble with a new piston, piston pin bearing, oem carb, muffler, coil and flywheel and see if she will start that way before adding back the fast components one by one to troubleshoot.
Any other suggestions?

 

[mdavlee]

Was it set up for methanol? They run higher compression for it and may explain the compression deal. The crank wasn't stroked was it?

 

[dall]

dave it looks like your impulse hose has a crack in it as well about a half inch in check it for us also

 

[jmssaws]

I want one

 

[riverrat2]

should have indexed the flywheel where it was setting be4 u pulled it apart

 

[T.Roller]

Basketcase

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Did the crank slip on the pin? Are the weights pretty even looking?

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

 

[Definitive Dave]

Was it set up for methanol? They run higher compression for it and may explain the compression deal. The crank wasn't stroked was it?

The seller on AS said he ran it on regular fuel to test it out.
How can I tell a stroked crank and what is it (sorry I am a dummy on this)

 

[Definitive Dave]

dave it looks like your impulse hose has a crack in it as well about a half inch in check it for us also

I missed that but can change all the rubber as I rebuild, I noticed that when I clamped the fuel line it cracked too.

 

[mdavlee]

Does the crank look like it's been pressed apart or anything on the big end.

 

[Definitive Dave]

should have indexed the flywheel where it was setting be4 u pulled it apart

hindsight 20/20
When I pull it off again I will look for any marks to the inside in case it was driven on over the key.
I can go back to stock timing and advance from there.

 

[Definitive Dave]

Basketcase

me or the saw ?

 

[Definitive Dave]

Did the crank slip on the pin? Are the weights pretty even looking?

I will eyeball the crap out of it with the piston removed and I want to look into the crankcase and probably flush it, the pieces missing from the edge of the crankcase worry me a little too.