High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

064 crankrod knock?

huskyboy

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i have been looking at the new west crank via internet. it seems like a decent option.
anyone have experience with am cranks?

not sure if i trust buying a used oem crank on ebay.
Not a 064 but... I bent a aftermarket tecomec crank on a 372 within short order. I tried to save money, but it bit me in the long run. If the saw is going to be used hard OEM only for crank and cylinders. Aftermarket pistons are usually ok, just inspect them for flaws. You kinda get what you pay for with the rotating important parts of a saw.
 
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oaky

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a new oem ones 300$ and unknown condition used ones are about 100$.

im guna try this new west crank from wolfcreek. think its made in taiwan.
$60
 

Al Smith

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Another option for a wallered out bearing pockets .They used this stuff at work for repairs on blind ended bearing pockets on machine fixtures .I've had good luck with it
 

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srcarr52

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what u guys think of this lower rod bearing..

theres no up and down play

Can you get a better video where we can see the small end side of the rod so we have something to gauge the movement by? From the video I don't think it's that bad. I don't think there are any AM 064 cranks out there, some may say it will fit but they won't.

I usually spin the crank around the other way and wiggle the rod between the crank throw so I have something to gauge by. If it hits both crank throws it's usually a good indication it's junk, but some cranks just have extra tight crank throw clearance to the rod so it's not always the case.
 

Scotty Overkill

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i have been looking at the new west crank via internet. it seems like a decent option.
anyone have experience with am cranks?

not sure if i trust buying a used oem crank on ebay.
That's the one I bought, so far it's been fine.....

This particular 064 isn't a show queen, it's been used and used very hard over the years, so with the repairs I made by dimpling the case around the bearing sleeve, it turned into sort of an "expirimental" saw, I figured I'd give the AM crank a go.
 

oaky

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jez louise, you guys were telling me the crank was junk now your saying it looks okay.
 

oaky

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well i ordered the new west crank anyway, itll be nice to compare the “wiggley-ness” side by side. if the am vs oem wiggles about the same ill just return the am.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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Most cranks have play like that. As mentioned above, it’s nearly impossible to make a conclusion from a video. I almost go by feel on them... it also helps to look closely at the needle bearing while moving it.

I would run it based on the evidence and your observations.
 

Scotty Overkill

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Some of the telltale signs in mine.that the crank (particularly the connecting rod) was shot were up-down slop, excessive side slop, and there was bronze-colored metallic flake all through the bottom end/muffler.

The ridiculous "knock" when running was just the tip of the iceburg......

I've seen just connecting rods for sale on ebay, but I'm not sure how to go about replacing just the rod........anyone ever do that to one of these cranks?
 

Al Smith

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D Cahoon tried to press apart a crank once .A 50 ton press would not do the job .I have no idea how Falicon does it .Having said that it would not be a job for a novice .I would guess it's a heat shrink fit using an induction heater .For all I know they might use the same thing to get them apart .
 

mdavlee

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Adam Clarke did some and said 100 tons and some heat will do it. He said it was a bit scary putting that much pressure on it.
 

Spladle160

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I'm hearing a whole lot of, So and so did or said. Surely some folks have tried for themselves right? Doesn't look that hard. I'lvegot a harbor freight press, my just have to try and press a junker.
 
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mdavlee

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I'm hearing a whole lot of, So and so did or said. Surely some folks have tried for themselves right? Doesn't look that hard. I'l got a harbor freight press, my just have to try and press a junker.

If I had a 100 ton I might try it just to see but I’d have to ruin a crank first[emoji23]
 
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