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064/056 mag11 build

Chainsaw Jim

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Always the same bar and chain.
I'm fresh out of 98cc 064's to compare it to so my 066 will have to do.
I said in the beginning that if I could beat the 066's here with it then I've done good,I ain't yet but I'm getting closer.

When I'm comparing I'm not looking for the fastest bar and chain setup, I'm looking for one that will load one as hard as I can.
It wasn't directed at you, I got lasy and didn't feel like replying to the half dosen or so people that were asking the chain questions.
my stupid keyboard!!! the letter next to the left side shift button quit working.
 

jmssaws

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It wasn't directed at you, I got lasy and didn't feel like replying to the half dosen or so people that were asking the chain questions.
my stupid keyboard!!! the letter next to the left side shift button quit working.
It's kool Jim, I didn't mean it to sound in a derogatory way.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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What do you think deeter,can a 064/056 beat my 066?
I think with the strange transfer design and the intake dumping on one side of the cylinder might be to much to overcome.

If the transfers weren't so high from the factory it would be easier.
my original plans for the 056 intake was to fill weld the outside to give enough area for grinding it out even. I never got a chance to try it because it turns out my 056 mag II was modded with a 54mm top end before i got it. I tore it down to build a race hybrid and discovered it wasn't only a 54mm cylinder modded to fit the 56mm bolt pattern, it also had a golf piston with a broken ring that fell apart when I pulled the jug. How it never hung up is a mystery to me because i was bucking some 30-35' dry maple when I last ran it. Thats why I'm using a 394 cylinder instead of the 056 on my hybrid build.

Since the transfers are so high you might want to take the exhaust up a degree or two for more rpm's, but I'm assuming you already know this.
 

Four Paws

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If the transfers weren't so high from the factory it would be easier.

Fill the uppers with JB weld and start over.

my original plans for the 056 intake was to fill weld the outside to give enough area for grinding it out even.

Since the transfers are so high you might want to take the exhaust up a degree or two for more rpm's, but I'm assuming you already know this.

I think JB weld on the exterior of the intake would be a solid alternative to welding, and would hold up.

I also feel this saw needs more blowdown...higher exhaust and lower transfers.
 

jmssaws

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The intake has jb weld on it so I could try and straighten it up some and I did some but the problem with that is the transfers aren't square in the bore so when you widen the intake or try to straighten it you have one transfer you can't do much with and the other is a mile away from the ring end,one upper you can make a foot long if you want and the other you can't do much to.
Another problem is trying to get a accurate read on the transfers,you can only see through the plug hole and if you push a ring up the dome piston will throw it off a little, best I can tell there between 117 and 119.
I'm not gonna raise the exhaust until I get the big carb and boot on it and see how it runs. I know with the extra cc it can be higher but I'm still going to wait.
 

jmssaws

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Fill the uppers with JB weld and start over.



I think JB weld on the exterior of the intake would be a solid alternative to welding, and would hold up.

I also feel this saw needs more blowdown...higher exhaust and lower transfers.
Everyone that grinds on saws has raised the transfers to much and killed one,remember that blah feeling it had well that's exactly how this saw feels,I haven't raised them at all,they were very high stock and short blow down is hurting it.
 

drf256

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J, ever think of going assymetric with the transfers because of jug design? Maybe you can tighten one and loosen another tunnel?

Do you have any wash on the piston to examine?

I was thinking it needed more exhaust too. Is the arch on the roof flatter or more arced than usual?
 

paragonbuilder

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J, ever think of going assymetric with the transfers because of jug design? Maybe you can tighten one and loosen another tunnel?

Do you have any wash on the piston to examine?

I was thinking it needed more exhaust too. Is the arch on the roof flatter or more arced than usual?

I like the way you think Doc!


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drf256

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I like the way you think Doc!


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Morning Dan.

Measure another stock 262 jug when you've got it in your hands. Take a look at the wash on the piston also. I've had at least a few where the stock jug had different upper heights from side to side. I've also equaled them out with porting and found piston wash to be assymetric.

The flywheel side tunnel is smaller on the 262.
 

paragonbuilder

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Morning Dan.

Measure another stock 262 jug when you've got it in your hands. Take a look at the wash on the piston also. I've had at least a few where the stock jug had different upper heights from side to side. I've also equaled them out with porting and found piston wash to be assymetric.

The flywheel side tunnel is smaller on the 262.

I look closer when I get to mine. I wonder if that was on purpose, or to accommodate some other design characteristic?


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drf256

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I look closer when I get to mine. I wonder if that was on purpose, or to accommodate some other design characteristic?


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Sorry for the Hijack Jason.

Dan, I think it has to do with the flywheel tunnel having that indent.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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I'd consider raising the exhaust darn near 8 degrees. it ended up about 2 degrees lower than stock 064 after grinding out the squish by 2mm. the transfers should have ended up about 3 degrees higher after squish cut since they started out 8 degrees higher than stock ks 064.
 
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