- Local time
- 11:34 AM
- User ID
- 193
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2015
- Messages
- 4,563
- Reaction score
- 17,644
- Location
- Oregon

Man...that is snappy!!Here it is with less muffler opening
Man...that is snappy!!Here it is with less muffler opening
If opening the muffler to much slows the saw down, I think you've either went to high and wide with the transfers, or not high enough with the ex. Muffler restriction is never a good thing for performance.It doesn't take a special size,just less than 2 giant openings
I've never seen one do this and I've had 4 in the last 2 months.
I threw parts at 2 of them till they were fixed but I don't know what fixed it for sure.
It runs as good as any I got here but absolutely stops at 13.4
I've had 4 different 066's that all stop at 13.4
Lots of coils and carbs and lots of different ignition advances but still won't go. I can take a carb off a saw that will go to 15k and it's the same thing, 13.4
Once a saw stops 4stroking you can still generally keep gaining rpm but these completely stop at 13.4 and 4stroking up to that point then it's over.
I'm thinking it's the muffler opening to big but I haven't tried it yet.
My 064 hybrid that would tune to 14.5 done it and I changed everything twice and it fixed it.
My 064 did the same thing and I finally found a small airleak,and I mean exactly the same thing down to the exact rpm.
It's fixed but I can't find a airleak on the saw in the video,with a lot of air in it under water I can't find one.
Nope.
I'm convinced it has a airleak even if I haven't found it yet.
I think it's a crank seal that only leaks at high rpm.
I'm sorry for taking up your time and I should have taken your advice and plugged some dumaflauchy in the carb.Threw parts at it till it was fixed.
Tried coils and carbs.
Had a air leak.
Can't find the air leak?
So to conclude, the air leak was in the muffler.![]()
I'm sorry for taking up your time and I should have taken your advice and plugged some dumaflauchy in the carb.
I definitely did change parts on my 064 till it was fixed, it's faster to eliminate trouble when you have 10 of the same saws that work fine to swap parts around on.
I wouldn't have considered the muffler but it's the only thing left I didn't change,I'm sure I can put it on another saw and it work fine just not this one.
Again I'm sorry for not taking your advice about fixing the carb problem.
I'll jump in on that. Had several different types of engine do just that. They also had different carb manufactures. The only thing we found out was that the no go carbs had bad flow characteristics above a given RPM. There was no "fix". If it don't flow it won't go. Jet changes did nothing. Adjustments did nothing. Found this one time on a small 2smoke carb. Many 4smoke small engines have this problem. Most times the carb was just too small to feed the new build. That's all I have for ya.Anybody ever have a saw that won't go past 13.5k? Run strong and idle good but no matter what it won't go past 13.5 or even 4stroke at 13.5
Screw the carb screws shut and it won't go past it. I've had 4 saws like that and fixed 2 but don't know what I did to fix them. I figure it's a airleak but can't find one in a bucket of water. Anybody?
yesListen at it the first time I check rpm,it's fat at 13.3 but I heard it start leaning and let off. Anybody else hear that?
I got the factory port opened out to the deflector and a stock dp cover on it and it will tune over 14.5 it's 14.3 here
On our build it just killed it at 5400rpm. We think the low pressure pocket enhanced the poor conditions of the loops end cycle. We were also @ 65mph when it came up. We changed the prop to go bigger. Same thing at 68mph. It stayed all through a 25px4 @72mph. Made you say Whaaaaat? 5400wtf? Whaaaat... Change the damn tac. OK done. Same same Scratch head again... Rinse repeatSo does it only effect no load tune? Or is it also weaker in the wood ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk