unionvillecountryboy
Super OPE Member
Ok, saw ran great and saw was taken apart to replace clutch springs. Disassembled further than needed to assess the rest of the saw. That's where I found the aftermarket cylinder I speak of in another thread.
The saw was leak checked, small leak somewhere not holding vacuum or pressure, but no bubbles. it's not crank seals they are good, carb boot good also. Cylinder bolts weren't as tight as they could be, so those are now very tight. Compression pulls at 165 and holds vacuum on leak check.
Saw is reassembled. When starting at home it won't start. Set H and L one turn out and LA at previously recorded 4 turns out.
Saw starts but dies when throttle squeezed, very boggy all the time. Tonight I messed around with it and found where it idles and throttles up best. L is 2.5! Turns out and LA is 1.5 turns out to get snappy throttle response and 2700 idle. I tried multiple combinations of more and less turns out on each screw but the above is best. 2.5 turns out on L seems really rich right?
Hit the throttle all the way for max rpm, at one turn out it hit 14k very fast and was still climbing. Turned it a quarter turn out and checked sever al times to get max rpm down. Wound up at 3 turns out and gave up. At 3 turns out max rpm is 4800, at an 1/8 turn leaner max rpm is 14k.......... is the carb screwed or what? I'm lost. I know this can be a good saw, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm frustrated to say the least.
I have a new oem cylinder just waiting to go on, but I'd like to get it running right first.
The saw was leak checked, small leak somewhere not holding vacuum or pressure, but no bubbles. it's not crank seals they are good, carb boot good also. Cylinder bolts weren't as tight as they could be, so those are now very tight. Compression pulls at 165 and holds vacuum on leak check.
Saw is reassembled. When starting at home it won't start. Set H and L one turn out and LA at previously recorded 4 turns out.
Saw starts but dies when throttle squeezed, very boggy all the time. Tonight I messed around with it and found where it idles and throttles up best. L is 2.5! Turns out and LA is 1.5 turns out to get snappy throttle response and 2700 idle. I tried multiple combinations of more and less turns out on each screw but the above is best. 2.5 turns out on L seems really rich right?
Hit the throttle all the way for max rpm, at one turn out it hit 14k very fast and was still climbing. Turned it a quarter turn out and checked sever al times to get max rpm down. Wound up at 3 turns out and gave up. At 3 turns out max rpm is 4800, at an 1/8 turn leaner max rpm is 14k.......... is the carb screwed or what? I'm lost. I know this can be a good saw, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm frustrated to say the least.
I have a new oem cylinder just waiting to go on, but I'd like to get it running right first.
