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044 Paperweight

BonScott46

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Well I was breaking down a good sized birch stem when my favorite 044 cut out. Pulled it apart today and what I found gave me the sads. The crank is also locked up.
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pwheel

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Worth rebuilding? The locked-up crank is a head-scratcher.
 

Mastermind

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Smooth out the rough edges, and replace the piston. You'd be surprised how unnoticeable those gouges will be to performance. Yes, at low rpm compression will be effected, but at 11,000 rpm, dynamic compression will still be plenty high
 

BonScott46

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I had another surprise when the cylinder that was supposed to be attatched with gasket sealer seperated from the case with zero effort and no signs of any residue…i have run the saw for 100-200 hours and no air leak symptoms at all. That left me scratching my head.
 

Mastermind

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I had another surprise when the cylinder that was supposed to be attatched with gasket sealer seperated from the case with zero effort and no signs of any residue…i have run the saw for 100-200 hours and no air leak symptoms at all. That left me scratching my head.

I've had the same thing. That's why I stopped using 518, and Hylomar Blue.
 

president

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Smooth out the rough edges, and replace the piston. You'd be surprised how unnoticeable those gouges will be to performance. Yes, at low rpm compression will be effected, but at 11,000 rpm, dynamic compression will still be plenty high
good to know,I,ve discarded many jugs that were in better shape
thanks!
 

BonScott46

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10mm or 12mm? I may have a jug
Thanks but this saw will most likely sit for a while or turn into a parts saw depending on if I can free the crank. Luckily I happened upon a low hour not running 12mm 044 on ebay last year that just needed the air filter cleaned and carb rebuilt. It doesn't run the same as this one had some port work but it is a solid saw.
 

BonScott46

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Well, as the bottom end i locked up at bottom dead center, I can't get the wrist pin out far enough to get the piston off. I guess I will pull the seals and see if it is something in the main bearings.
 

Stump Shot

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Well, as the bottom end i locked up at bottom dead center, I can't get the wrist pin out far enough to get the piston off. I guess I will pull the seals and see if it is something in the main bearings.

The way I see it, the cases need to be split to get to a final analysis.

I'm wondering whether part of the circlip got jammed between the crank & the case.

Likely scenario, or a piece of shrapnel from somewhere else possibly.
That outcome of course would depend on the clips original direction of departure. ;)
 

mainer_in_ak

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Back to Dirko.

Hello from Alaska, I have had issues with various sealants as well,in reallycold weather. When a saw is setting at 40-50 below zero, then are run to operating temp. Crazy heat up cool down fluctuation.

Mostly in snowmachines and chainsaws.

Some will find this improper, but I once lost the seal on a Bearcat 340 upper and lower case halves. The backfires were so severe, it would blow the mikuni roundslide carb right wide open. I was 47 below zero. I kept it at about 15-20 mph and it got me home.

I used right-stuff gasket maker, knowing fully well it was not the best choice for resistance to gas. BUT, it said "rated to -65 below zero" on the tube.

That repair is still holding up.

I've since used Right-Stuff on 3 chainsaw builds. I ported an echo cs-530, a stihl ms 310, and an echo cs 6700. All three are running great.

On the echo cs 530, I tore a felt walbro carb gasket, I even repaired that with right stuff. It has no carb issues.

Another time, I got caught in sweepers with a hunting rifle slung across my back. The forearm was torn off the barrel. I sealed it in place with right stuff. A gunsmith had a bear-of a time separating the forearm from the barrel to re-finish that ugly thing. He had to CUT the forearm off the barrel!

Anyhow, it's good stuff and I use it for bush repairs every year, often being many miles from any road or town.

Another top notch sealant in extreme cold is yamabond.

Last three saws sealed with right stuff:
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