044#1 - I Have Questions

[MustangMike]

Thanks for the advice, I want torque, so I left the original (longer skirt) piston in. I'm not porting it, but it is a KS jug.

 

[Moparmyway]

Mike, the 044's love to leak at the seal spacer to shaft interface on the clutch side down by the oil pump. You can seal it with an O ring, just install the O ring before you put spacer on, and you can coat the inside of the spacer along with the outside of the shaft with grease

 

[drf256]

I'm unclear how a longer piston skirt makes more power? Closes the intake a few degrees sooner?

Mike, looks like you're on your way towards getting her going again. That's good stuff.

Did you advance the timing, or will you be leaving it alone?

By any chance, did you take any timing numbers on the stock jug?

 

[Deets066]

I'm unclear how a longer piston skirt makes more power? Closes the intake a few degrees sooner?

Mike, looks like you're on your way towards getting her going again. That's good stuff.

Did you advance the timing, or will you be leaving it alone?

By any chance, did you take any timing numbers on the stock jug?

If he was porting it, he could have dropped the jug farther with longer skirts and it would help his intake number

 

[mdavlee]

The .029 would be 2 degrees. With the gasket drop it would have added 3 to the intake. Not going to hurt anything on those. Intake is probably still 72-73 that way.

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks for the O ring advice, but too late. Hopefully it will work with the new seal.

I did not take timing #s. With everything I got going on here, I just want to get it running again. Still want to do some cutting before Tax Season starts, and I use this saw a lot.

I had advanced the timing on that saw (20/1000) right after the CT GTG. So it has all new rubber & seals, HD-2 filter, dp muff cover, timing advance and base gasket removed, and a factory KS jug. Should be about as good as you can get w/o porting!

The ports on this jug looked good. The finish was not as nice as on that 046-D Mahle jug, but better than the Stihl 046 jug. I was going to remove some of the casting flaws but the port was already very close to the edge of the piston skirt, so I decided to just leave it alone. It runs just fine, and I don't want to risk messing it up.

 

[MustangMike]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!

I don't mind telling you I was a bit nervous, I've never done seals or deleted the base gasket before, but now it is done and she fired right up, idled smoothly, and felt very strong. I just had an old cut up piece of wood to noodle, but it seems like it did not want to stop!

I think I'm gonna like this thing set up this way! But the biggest relief is that it idled smoothly, I never complained about how it ran!

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Good stuff Mike. I'm glad you got it going again. There something really satisfying about fixing something yourself and having it work better then it ever did before. Good job sir

 

[Cutforfun]

Thanks for the O ring advice, but too late. Hopefully it will work with the new seal.

I did not take timing #s. With everything I got going on here, I just want to get it running again. Still want to do some cutting before Tax Season starts, and I use this saw a lot.

I had advanced the timing on that saw (20/1000) right after the CT GTG. So it has all new rubber & seals, HD-2 filter, dp muff cover, timing advance and base gasket removed, and a factory KS jug. Should be about as good as you can get w/o porting!

The ports on this jug looked good. The finish was not as nice as on that 046-D Mahle jug, but better than the Stihl 046 jug. I was going to remove some of the casting flaws but the port was already very close to the edge of the piston skirt, so I decided to just leave it alone. It runs just fine, and I don't want to risk messing it up.

The new seals will not take the place of the o-ring around the crank and spacer for the oiler.

 

[MustangMike]

The new seals, etc., seemed to have corrected the problem, and that is all I cared about. The fact that it seems even stronger now is just a bonus!

Can't wait to use it for a while to get a better handle on how strong it is.

 

[Moparmyway]

The new seals will not take the place of the o-ring around the crank and spacer for the oiler.

Hey !!!!!
Lookey who showed up !!
Welcome !!

 

[jmssaws]

Sounds like it was fat to me but I'm not a thorough reader.

 

[MustangMike]

Sounds like it was fat to me but I'm not a thorough reader.

You mean the tune??? Based on how clean the muff cover was (on the inside), and plug, I would say not.

Besides, how would replacing the seals and all the rubber fix that??? I didn't have to touch the carb.

 

[Ironworker]

Good job Mike.

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks Numa, I think you will be impressed when you squeeze the trigger on it at the next GTG!

 

[Cutforfun]

Hey !!!!!
Lookey who showed up !!
Welcome !!

Really liking this place, lots of saw related threads and not all the crap.
Mike , the o-ring is not something you want to overlook. You can pack it with grease if you want(so I have heard). eventually you will have an airleak if you do nothing.

 

[MustangMike]

Even if it never had one??? I mean, the saw is 22 years old, if I get half that on the new seal I'll be happy.

 

[Cutforfun]

What makes you think you never had the o-ring?

 

[jmssaws]

You mean the tune??? Based on how clean the muff cover was (on the inside), and plug, I would say not.

Besides, how would replacing the seals and all the rubber fix that??? I didn't have to touch the carb.

I'm not a thorough reader.

 

[MustangMike]

1) Unless it completely broke and vanished, it is not there.

2) It did not come (and was not suggested) with the seals.

3) I think I have seen that it was only on some saws, but that if you have problems you can add it to others.