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026 Carb's

leadfarmer

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You guys ain't going to believe this this thing fired off at 6 pulls, probably not started in a month and a half I did have the rear cover off though there is very very slight movement on the lever
 

leadfarmer

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Back to sanding
365175dadb5f1f28ec427ee68d966b82.jpg
 

Deets066

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When you push the control lever down to choke, and let off, does the lever come back up a bit? Mine does, and the choke gets a slight gap in it
I'll have to look at that
 

Brewz

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Had the 026 out today and burnt a couple of tanks in it cutting 12 - 14" thick rounds of knarly hard Ironbark into halves and quarters so I could lift them.

The little saw ran really strong with the 194 carb. I cant say it was better or worse than the 394, but it was really strong.
Started to get a bit of 4 stroke crackle around 14900 RPM so that's where I ran it.

I could lean on it hard and it just kept on cutting.
When noodling, it pulls so much timber out under load that it cant clear properly from the sprocket cover which is annoying, as it cloggs and jams the saw, but with a bit of a change in method, I had it noodling nicely.

I ended up swapping back to the 066 work horse as I have a LOT to cut up and the 066 was faster, and running 404 chain, needed less sharpening in the very hard wood.
The 026 is going to be dynamite in smaller timber though, which is what I want it for.

Now when I clean the saw up from today's work, I will swap the metering spring to the spring from the 394 carb and see what it does.
There is plenty more of that ironbark to noodle up yet.
 

KcChiefs2019

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With the popularity of these little saws and the amount of people putting a lot of work into them, I thought a thread based around the carbs would be a good idea.

I would love for people to post up their carb experiences, pics of the insides of the various alternatives for this saw.
Also, I would love to see some pics of what is needed to be done to fit the 044 carbs up to them.
 

KcChiefs2019

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Although my account isn’t brand new this is first time I really have ask a question. Hope I’m doing this in the right place. So onto it... Has there been any pics or details wht needs to be done to the 044 carb to fit the 026??
 

Basher

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is there any tricks to make a 026 start easier ?

I have done up a lot of 026`s, a lot. The one thing I have found is to shim the area between the master control lever where it contacts the lever on the airfilter shaft to make the choke flap to actually close tight and stay that way until the engine starts, most of mine do with less than five pulls over. My favorite starts first pull every time, no matter how long it sets between getting out cutting.
 

Sawrain

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I have done up a lot of 026`s, a lot. The one thing I have found is to shim the area between the master control lever where it contacts the lever on the airfilter shaft to make the choke flap to actually close tight and stay that way until the engine starts, most of mine do with less than five pulls over. My favorite starts first pull every time, no matter how long it sets between getting out cutting.

Interesting that, there must be some secrets, I have an old beat up 064, it often pops first pull cold, doesn't actually start, but goes close, way closer than any other saw I have or have used, I do wonder what magic combination exists inside.
 

backhoelover

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I think the primer system nowadays just primes the carb full, and recirculates the fuel back into the tank. It doesn't actually squirt fuel into the cylinder any more

you are correct only the walbro wz squirts fuel
 

Wonkydonkey

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I enjoyed reading this thread,
I did even know it existed till it got dragged back up..
What an interesting theory about the metering spring, :campeon: I may have to shim a spring abit to see if and what it does the next time I have one a part;)
 

Glennmac

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I wonder if one could slide a small piece of Tygon over one of the choke levers either on the master switch or the air filter to get a little more "throw" out of the choke to make it close nice and tight
 

Boomhower

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Interesting thread. I have a 026 that ive owned since the mid 90’s that will crank on the third pull every time no matter how long it has sat. The carb and filter was recently replaced and even though there are some other small issues with tuning it still fires 3rd pull. Other 026’s I own are a pain to start taking 8-10 trys.
 

82f100swb

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The last three 026's I built start on the first pull if you manage to flip the choke off quick enough... Only thing they have in common really is squish at .020 and WT194's on them all. Last build was machined squish band and pretty hot port timing, previous were just squish set only and much more conservative timing.
 

Glennmac

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The last three 026's I built start on the first pull if you manage to flip the choke off quick enough... Only thing they have in common really is squish at .020 and WT194's on them all. Last build was machined squish band and pretty hot port timing, previous were just squish set only and much more conservative timing.

Just curious about your mods... I plan to open mine up this winter. How much do yours add to your saw’s output? Do your best to put it in terms I can understand. Never had ported a saw before. Wondering what I’m missing. Is it like adding 10cc’s? I would consider that a huge gain.


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Deets066

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Just curious about your mods... I plan to open mine up this winter. How much do yours add to your saw’s output? Do your best to put it in terms I can understand. Never had ported a saw before. Wondering what I’m missing. Is it like adding 10cc’s? I would consider that a huge gain.


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A good port job isn’t just like adding 10 cc. They run entirely different. Throttle response that just makes you want to blip the throttle constantly, lol. And hold higher rpm in the wood.
 
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