026 Build

[bikemike]

I swapped filters between my two 026', the one on this saw is a loose mesh, seems like nylon. You can see right through the filter, figures it would be less restrictive.

The band is contoured to the piston, I said cut but it was actually sanded the whole time. I used a broken hacksaw blade to clean the ridge at the cylinder wall.

Interesting observation about timing. Could this be why I'm running hot? Starts real easy, runs good and strong.

Very creative buddy. YeaH timing can bring up the temp. But that's a easy fix on that saw. They like a timing bump but not too much

 

[bikemike]

 

[drf256]

Compression is why it's hot.

 

[bikemike]

Compression is why it's hot.

That makes sense too more fuel air, friction

 

[Fruecrue]

Hot or not, I like it.
I'm into it about $88.
Make it a cool hundo if I pay myself $1/hour.

Lots of respect for anyone making a living this way!

 

[bikemike]

Hot or not, I like it.
I'm into it about $88.
Make it a cool hundo if I pay myself $1/hour.

Lots of respect for anyone making a living this way!

Yeah my oh26 woody pro 20 for the saw.
Hi way gaskets aND seals kit. Cheep. Still need rings snd a compression bump. But it holds its own. Haven't seen a stock 362 take it down yet

 

[drf256]

That makes sense too more fuel air, friction

Compression pre heats the charge. That's all it does.

 

[huskihl]

Doc nailed it above.
Tune the saw for how you use it. If you only make a few short cuts each time, it can be leaner because it won't heat up. If you're making back to back 20 second cuts, it's going to need more fuel on the H screw. The important thing is that you check it often at full throttle to make sure it still 4 strokes. If you're working it hard one day, the next day it will be running rich until it gets up to that previous temp.

If you're curious about the timing, advance it until it pops in the cut or yanks back on the starter handle while starting it. I've advanced mine almost a full key with 250 lbs of compression and it didn't exhibit these signs yet

 

[Fruecrue]

026 got 2-1/2 tanks of lovin' today in some willow. She's getting stronger. 460 got some run time too.
And plenty more to come!

 

[Fruecrue]

32" on the stock 460 was trucking through the willow.

 

[bikemike]

View attachment 66010
32" on the stock 460 was trucking through the willow.

No rest for the wicked

 

[Fruecrue]

Breaking in nicely.

 

[drf256]

Oil in cylinder?

That's a bit too much

 

[Fruecrue]

I've run about 3 tanks 45/1 red armor, first two at 14k, 3rd at 14,5.
Didn't open it or add any oil for the compression check.

 

[Fruecrue]

Doc, doesn't CFB have one of yours higher than this?

 

[drf256]

Doc, doesn't CFB have one of yours higher than this?

Right there fully broken in.

Your's will still climb

I'd back off the ignition timing a bit if you advanced it.

See how it runs. If its really lean at the end of a cut, and it was fat at the beginning, you have to be careful.

 

[bikemike]

Right there fully broken in.

Your's will still climb

I'd back off the ignition timing a bit if you advanced it.

I totally agree I'm betting your 8 plus degrees advanced. 5 maybe 6 degrees at the max seems to be the sweet spot on those piss revin Lil machines

 

[drf256]

If your comp tester has an end that takes up more volume than a plug end seated in the chamber, your comp is likely lower than what you're reading. I have that issue with my OTC tester and I believe it's a copy or the parent of the respected Snapon gauge you are using. The tip (ha ha, just the tip baby) takes up more chamber volume than a plug does.

The error is more % the smaller the chamber.

I take nearly .055 from my bands and cut it flat. Even though your band is larger because of the arc, my chamber looks smaller. I get the saws down to 104-106 ex roof depending on the jug. I bet you're lower than what it's reading on your guage, which is good.

I did an NWP jug the way you did yours and I wound up at about 210 psi.

Just porting banter. You did an excellent job there.

Just be careful in the Summer. Like Kevin said, you gotta continually be on top of tune when the compression gets near that.

This is where my 024/026 hybrid with an 044 carb wound up after a long cut in August. It was tuned to 16k going into the wood.

 

[drf256]

Here's 2 chambers. The non- decomp is a red lever chamber cut flat. Pushing around 240psi broken in. The other is the NWP that's done like yours is. Around 210 on build. I will check again in December after it's run for a season.

The NWP is 44.7mm and doesn't have the same zip as the oem 44mm saw. It does have that ugly recess by the plug that may be making the comp run lower than yours.

 

[Fruecrue]

Thanks for the input Doc, which you've had more than you know of on this build.
I see what you're saying with the blunt tip (I'll stop if it hurts, I promise) of the compression tester.
I have a habit of keeping a tach in my pocket, hopefully I can catch it if it does decide to run away (not a tip joke).
Any chance you know the diameter of the crank about midway up the key? I did some rough math this morning. If it's 1/2", .00436" off the key would equal 1 degree of timing advance. I'll have to measure at some point.