Who gets frustrated???

[Philbert]

Is there a link those vises are sold on?

Pay Pal Homelite410@gmail.com
Follow along http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/i-made-some-chain-vises.240935/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/all-in-one-stihl-bar-adapter.244840/

I like Sharp chain.

Very pretty chains!

I only use a file. . . .When filing, it is important to concentrate on the stroke and follow through as you file the tooth. . . . Look at the teeth before and after. Feel the tooth as you file slowly and get to know what it feels like when its sharp.

Very conscious, intentional, almost Zen-like approach! I am sure that you get good results like that!

Philbert

 

[Brewz]

Also, every sharpening method can give great results but you will need to practice.

Swapping between different types of sharpeners to find one that works will never end well. You will just be bad at lots of different ones.

Pick one you like and get good at it.

I chose a simple Oregon file guide and file early on and stuck with it because it's fast and convenient when in the bush and you hit some dirt.

I don't see any point being an expert with a fancy electric grinder in my garage when I hit some dirt and can't fix the chain with a basic file in the field.

I use one method that I can use anywhere, any time.

 

[cdixon]

I get so frustrated when I take the time to intensely sharpen a chain and it does not run well. I live in an area that has a lot of hard woods and am thinking about buying nothing but semi chisel from here on out as i hAve had bether luck keeping an edge on it versus chisel. Anyone else do that? I have almost every type of sharpening device known to man and find that the Oregon file guide works best for me but take too much time. I have a granberg file n joint, an Oregon jig just like the granberg, a timber tuff electric grinder, a husky roller guide, and a 12 volt oregon grinder.

If you had to buy one sharpening tool what would it be?

Stihl FF1 File guide Holder for use with the Stihl file guide. It's idiot proof. But cost twice what the Husqvarna roller file guides do. But you get the correct angle every time. Comes with a instruction data DVD. I own both. But the FF1 is awesome.

 

[Philbert]

Have you tried the FF1 on any non-STIHL chains?

Curious if / how it fits.

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[Crzybowhntr]

Stihl FF1 File guide Holder for use with the Stihl file guide. It's idiot proof. But cost twice what the Husqvarna roller file guides do. But you get the correct angle every time. Comes with a instruction data DVD. I own both. But the FF1 is awesome.

Have you tried the FF1 on any non-STIHL chains?

Curious if / how it fits.

Thanks.

Philbert

I`m interested, too.

 

[cdixon]

Mine is .325 and should work on standard Bars .050-.063. It won't work on .325 Narrow Kerf. The Full 3/8" will also work on non Stihl Saw Chains if you swap out the Stihl File for a 7/32" file in the Stihl File holder. It has a thumbscrew so the little bit of difference is file size is no issue. But you have to use the Stihl File guide with the FF1. They make the FF1 For 3/8 Picco/Low profile. .325 and 3/8" full pitch.

 

[CTYank]

I usually try to have at least 3 chains per saw with me, so that I can swap out in the field if they need more than a light touch up.

Doing storm damage clean up (lots of debris) we have run the Oregon type grinders off of portable generators. Trick is to have some way to set them up in the field (clamp to picnic table, mount on/in equipment trailer, on a step ladder, hitch receiver, etc.). The little Harbor Freight type grinders have small amp motors and will run off of an inverter, if they are acceptable to you, even for that use.

Philbert

Some time back I made a little mount-frame of tubafore for my $100 NT grinder. Made that frame so it's quickly clamped with a super-cheapie workstand, one like the POS "workmate". The grinder clamps to the frame with a couple deck screws. That grinder only draws something like 120 watts, but I've yet to try powering it from a wee 400W inverter. See what you've started?

 

[Philbert]

Some time back I made a little mount-frame of tubafore for my $100 NT grinder.

Fotos?

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[CTYank]

Fotos?

Thanks.

Philbert

Sorry for the delay, but I've been way too busy for a retiree. Anyhow, they're hopefully self-explanatory, chunks of tubafore, some gorilla glue, some pocket-holes, some deck screws. And a "Quick-Grip" clamp for backup.



Makes the whole thing very portable & flexible. Next: powering if from 400w inverter off solar-charged battery, if only as proof-of-concept.

Slapped one together for a bud who got one of these NT knockoff grinders. Sez it works for him. (I 'splained to him that the super-cheapie HF grinders just aren't worth the space or the trouble. Yes, I did provide him the obligatory chain-filing tutorial.)

 

[Wolverine]

Frustration... try the worlds best method.

I been using a file wrong all these years?!?!?

 

[jake wells]

i hand file no guide use full chisel in hard wood my chain doesn't dull any faster than semi chisel.

 

[Ronaldo]

Frustration... try the worlds best method.

I been using a file wrong all these years?!?!?

Seems like this method could be a bit hard on the file, similar to pulling the file backwards along the cutter, and thus bending the file cutters down???? Am I overthinking this? Yes, No Or Maybe.

 

[huskihl]

Seems like this method could be a bit hard on the file, similar to pulling the file backwards along the cutter, and thus bending the file cutters down???? Am I overthinking this? Yes, No Or Maybe.

Nope. Not overthinking anything. I'd say you're spot on

 

[Philbert]

Couple of guys promote the drill-file method. I have to assume that it works to some extent, because they claim that they are making the cutters sharper, and that it works for them.

If the cutting edges in a file are shaped like a 'V', then rotating the file might cut with the side of the 'V' (just speculating here). But that does not mean that you are getting as clean of a cut as pushing the file forward. Rotating can heat up the file and cutter. And if he only rotates in one direction, he is only getting half the life out of the file.

If he is happy with that, I would be happy to sell him files. But I don't think that it is efficient, or an improvement over conventional filing.
JMHO

Philbert

 

[Wolverine]

Agree Philbert. I thought it was quite comical.

 

[thedude74]

I have found that, persistence, creates patience.......
I've tossed aside many, I mean MANY chains.........
Only thing that causes frustration anymore is bowel movements.....

coffee and beans my friend!

 

[thedude74]

Used to have the same issue as well. Id run the chain till it was dull, resharpen it at an angle that may or may not have been correct, filed way too much off the rakers....wouldnt cut for crap....buy a new chain, dull it, repeat. Read many different articles bout how the pros do it.
Since, started filing the teeth 2 strokes with the file guide....at the correct angle after every tank of gas. 2 strokes on the rakers every 2-3rd tank.....been pretty happy with the results. Also if you have a lot of cutting helps to have a couple extra chains.....wear em down...file em back to sharp when at home...preferably with a beer or two. Did I mention the beer? Thats the important part!

 

[Marshy]

Wait.... You're supposed to file the chain? FML

 

[Dolmar Junkie]

Frustration... try the worlds best method.

I been using a file wrong all these years?!?!?

He needs a bigger drill, you know the kind that will spin you around and throw you down when it bites!
And it's also better to perform this method while standing on your head,so as to properly visualize the underside of the cutter. Your Welcome....

 

[Wilhelm]

I almost exclusively use chisel 3/8" and buck skidded oak, beech, hornbeam - both dead-dry and fresh-green.
I also occasionally cut cherry, acacia/locust, Willow and whatnot.
The hardest I ever cut is dead dry Cornelian cherry, followed by 8 years seasoned acacia/locust.

I have been using chisel tooth chains since I bought my Dolmar PS-6400 back in 2006., till then I only used round tooth 3/8" Low Profile on my little 40cc Sachs-Dolmar 105.

Truth be told, I learned how to sharpen a chain half way decent once I started using chisel and the reason is simple - if it ain't sharp it ain't gonna cut!
I am still learning!
I never managed to get equal left and right cutters, within a couple touch ups with a file my chain would start cutting sideways - to fix this issue I would break out the bar mounted file guide to even all cutters.
Only recently I started to flip my saw upside down in order to sharpen the right side cutters and it suits me nicely being a lefty.
Last year I wore out a TriLink chisel loop without ever having had it cut sideways, lest having had used the file guide on it - seems fine to me.

I have two semi chisel loops in usage right now, one is a carbide tipped Stihl Rapid Duro3 so it doesn't really count, but the other is a regular loop by TriLink which gets sharpened freehand with a round file.
Compared to the TriLink chisel loop I wore out last year, the semi chisel loop does not seem to be less prone to dulling but cuts slower, less aggressive no matter how much time I invest in sharpening it.

I use Stihl files, 5.5mm & 4.8mm for my 3/8" loops - they hold a nice edge for a good while.

I also have a generic supermarket grinder which is just collecting dust as I never liked the grinded loops.
They'd cut ok, but reverting the round ground teeth to round filed teeth was a lengthy, tiresome and annoying process - thus I simply stopped using the grinder altogether!

For what it's worth, different chain brands can also make sharpening easier, or more frustrating.
I generally only tended to use Dolmar branded Oregon loops and as such got used to them.
Then I bought some TriLink loops and couldn't get them to cut worth poop!
The difference, the TriLink loop top plates have a 5 or 10° up angle to which my muscles memory wasn't used to.
Also interesting, the Dolmar 099/Oregon 73 loops do not hold up well in dirty skidded logs, a few bucking cuts can render them dull.
The TriLink that I have on the other hand has proven itself ignorant to logs embedded in 1/2" of dry mud - just keeps on chugging, no kidding.
Although, in clean wood I'd rather utilize a well sharpened self feeding Dolmar/Oregon loop considering that the TriLink loop (I have) don't seem to self feed at all without heavy alterations.

From my point of view sharpening takes time, I seem to require about 15 minutes for a touch up, and at least half an hour for a real sharpening - free hand, 72DL loop.
It takes me about an hour to sharpen a 72DL loop with the bar mounted file guide - mostly because it is a clumsy system.

Can I sharpen a chain?
I can make a chain work for me, instead me working for the chain!
What do I consider to be a sharp chain?
A chain is sharp when it self feeds willingly, without the need of aggressively set rakers!
Do I intentionally set aggressive rakers?
Yes I do, but only for loops intended for my Dolmar PS-7900 - a 20" B&C setup simply isn't enough load for this saw, she's screaming for more bite while running a by-the-books loop!
What are other people reactions to "my" chains and sharpening method?
I've been told on numerous occasions that I have no clue - I used to take it personally the first couple times, but then I realized that their opinions don't matter as long as it works for me, each to his own!
Is it frustrating when a loop doesn't perform as expected after one spent a fair amount of time sharpening it?
Yes it is, but what's one gonna do about it except repeat sharpening till the chain cuts well - this will eventually ad to the learning curve and provide muscle memory!

Thank You for reading!

P.S.:
I've never had a loop sharpened by a shop.
I like to have ONE work chain per saw, if it is dull I'll grab the other saw or sharpen the chain.
I'm just a homeowner firewood hack.
I'm no pro at anything, I just make things work for me.