Square ground angles, please

[PA Dan]

But that’s going into the angled profile of the wheel also, correct?

Edit
Top plate… what you see looking down at the top of the chain. My bad

The on that's easy to put the angle finder on.

 

[dall]

Can you pick out which one was @Armbru84 ?

One was @dall but the tag came off so not sure which any more.

One is ATOP.

One was Ben.

i think mine was the top one i never worry about the intersecting of the corners

 

[Armbru84]

Can you pick out which one was @Armbru84 ?

One was @dall but the tag came off so not sure which any more.

One is ATOP.

One was Ben.

I would guess mine was the 3rd but who knows.

 

[PA Dan]

That would have been my guess too!

I would guess mine was the 3rd but who knows.

 

[davidwyby]

Yup, I do know that one for sure

 

[iamsham78]

I’m a little late to the party but these angles have worked well for me in hardwood, they’re hand filed but cut very smooth and fast. Rakers are at 0.30”

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I’m a little late to the party but these angles have worked well for me in hardwood, they’re hand filed but cut very smooth and fast. Rakers are at 0.30”

Nice looking teeth! No wonder they “worked well”

 

[av8or3]

Here’s the latest from me. I’ve switched over to the CBN wheels for my grinding and I think I’m happy. I use Diamondwheel’s 4 3/4” diameter 3/16” for round grind and gullet/raker removal and I sprung for one of Cowlitz River Rigging’s CBN Square grind wheels. At $300 it was a bit of a risk considering I had no idea what angles were set up in the wheel. It’s also an electroplated wheel so the abrasive is only skin deep. I was reassured it would be good for “hundreds of chains” and could be plated again for half the original cost.

When talking with the fellow at Cowlitz I was told the wheel would only work on the Simington swing arm, not on a Silvey RSII. After using it on the Simington I think the Silvey certainly could be set up to use it.

I went from one extreme to the other when trying to find a suitable grind and found the best (so far) by moving the chain in as far as possible and lowering the chain holder as low as you can go.

Here are the results on a 3/8 .063. I was able to get this with very little material removal. It went very fast. There were a few cutters where the side plate didn’t fully develop and a few where I just nicked the chassis. I was having trouble getting the chain to lie flat in the holder (new .063) and I think that contributed to those exceptions.
The wheel is 6 3/4” in diameter and is steel (heavy). There is NO dust and no dressing the wheel. That contributes to the speed of the operation. I back my grinder up to my gunsafe and the iron filings bounce off the door and fall to the floor where I can vacuum them up.
It’s great. The absence of the dust and no dressing is what I’m happiest with. The grinding is at least as good as with a stone wheel and maybe could be better with more experience .

I’m very happy with all this. I will probably move it over to the Silvey and give it a try. I’ll measure the distance from the chain holder to the bottom of the wheel and lower the slide on the Silvey to match. It should run fine.
Edit: I was so pleased with the outcome I forgot to mention a big CON concerning the Cowlitz wheel. It didn’t fit my 1” arbor. It should have, it’s advertised as having a 1” hole. It came in at .980 as best as I could measure. Wasn’t too big a deal for me as I have access to a lathe, and was able to get it just right. But for someone who does not and paid $300, I recon it’d be a big deal. I called Cowlitz and was told they were aware and were working to get it fixed with the manufacturer.

 

[Squareground3691]

Here’s the latest from me. I’ve switched over to the CBN wheels for my grinding and I think I’m happy. I use Diamondwheel’s 4 3/4” diameter 3/16” for round grind and gullet/raker removal and I sprung for one of Cowlitz River Rigging’s CBN Square grind wheels. At $300 it was a bit of a risk considering I had no idea what angles were set up in the wheel. It’s also an electroplated wheel so the abrasive is only skin deep. I was reassured it would be good for “hundreds of chains” and could be plated again for half the original cost.

When talking with the fellow at Cowlitz I was told the wheel would only work on the Simington swing arm, not on a Silvey RSII. After using it on the Simington I think the Silvey certainly could be set up to use it.

I went from one extreme to the other when trying to find a suitable grind and found the best (so far) by moving the chain in as far as possible and lowering the chain holder as low as you can go.
View attachment 404605
Here are the results on a 3/8 .063. I was able to get this with very little material removal. It went very fast. There were a few cutters where the side plate didn’t fully develop and a few where I just nicked the chassis. I was having trouble getting the chain to lie flat in the holder (new .063) and I think that contributed to those exceptions. View attachment 404607
The wheel is 6 3/4” in diameter and is steel (heavy). There is NO dust and no dressing the wheel. That contributes to the speed of the operation. I back my grinder up to my gunsafe and the iron filings bounce off the door and fall to the floor where I can vacuum them up.
It’s great. The absence of the dust and no dressing is what I’m happiest with. The grinding is at least as good as with a stone wheel and maybe could be better with more experience .
View attachment 404608
I’m very happy with all this. I will probably move it over to the Silvey and give it a try. I’ll measure the distance from the chain holder to the bottom of the wheel and lower the slide on the Silvey to match. It should run fine.

Keeper going,

 

[300DMMAG]

Thanks everyone for all of the great information

 

[chipper1]

I would guess mine was the 3rd but who knows.

That's what I'd guess, it looks .

i think mine was the top one i never worry about the intersecting of the corners

Really, not a stihl chain lol.
Corners(inside) matching all depends on the brand/style of chain and how aggressive you're making it in my experience.
I would have guessed yours was the bottom and you left the raker high for him to set as needed.

View attachment 392467View attachment 392468View attachment 392469View attachment 392470
This is .404 by Jeff. I think these angles look best for the junk I cut.
View attachment 392471

Can you pick out which one was @Armbru84 ?

One was @dall but the tag came off so not sure which any more.

One is ATOP.

One was Ben.

Top I'd guess was the ATOP.
Which one worked best for you.

 

[dall]

That's what I'd guess, it looks .

Really, not a stihl chain lol.
Corners(inside) matching all depends on the brand/style of chain and how aggressive you're making it in my experience.
I would have guessed yours was the bottom and you left the raker high for him to set as needed.



Top I'd guess was the ATOP.
Which one worked best for you.

i run alot of oregon chain
i ordered a roll of stihl chain back 3 years ago and never got it

 

[chipper1]

i run alot of oregon chain
i ordered a roll of stihl chain back 3 years ago and never got it

Fricken stihl .
That really does suck though.
I like the x-cut chain, maybe that's too far right for you though lol.

 

[dall]

Fricken stihl .
That really does suck though.
I like the x-cut chain, maybe that's too far right for you though lol.

x cut is what oregon rebranded style ?

 

[dall]

Fricken stihl .
That really does suck though.
I like the x-cut chain, maybe that's too far right for you though lol.

you must buy chain and when dull throw it away if it has to be something special

because once you touch a cutter with a file or grinder the name or style means nothing

 

[chipper1]

x cut is what oregon rebranded style ?

No, it's new husky chain, good stuff.
Very fast cutting out of the box and it's quite hard so it holds up great initially and when converted to square.

you must buy chain and when dull throw it away if it has to be something special

No, not me, I'm pretty frugal. That's why I have all the grinders and scads of files and gizmos, that's how you save a buck lol.

because once you touch a cutter with a file or grinder the name or style means nothing

I 100% disagree with this statement.
Shoot me your address and I'll send you some nice vanguard chains .

 

[dall]

No, it's new husky chain, good stuff.
Very fast cutting out of the box and it's quite hard so it holds up great initially and when converted to square.

No, not me, I'm pretty frugal. That's why I have all the grinders and scads of files and gizmos, that's how you save a buck lol.

I 100% disagree with this statement.
Shoot me your address and I'll send you some nice vanguard chains .

im all good thanks anyway

i still dont think husky has their own chain dept same way i dont think stihl does either

 

[davidwyby]

That's what I'd guess, it looks .

Really, not a stihl chain lol.
Corners(inside) matching all depends on the brand/style of chain and how aggressive you're making it in my experience.
I would have guessed yours was the bottom and you left the raker high for him to set as needed.



Top I'd guess was the ATOP.
Which one worked best for you.

Atop was fast but not smooth, a little aggressive, probably human error.

Dall’s worked well on my XS 346

Ben’s I don’t remember

I have two Cole chains a 20” play, almost comp and 24” kinda play…I think it was the fastest 24” but it’s been a long time. There are vids of them on my XS 2166 in pine on my YT. Everyone that has seen those vids was impressed. Green pondo

 

[Wilhelm]

Not going to do a multi quote!

Chain brand & model does matter!
Archer & TriLink ground the same way as Stihl, Oregon/Dolmar, Carlton, Husqvarna doesn't cut nearly as well as the later!!!

Vanguard is great chain, I got several loops from the US and even purchased some intentionally!
Wore down a couple.
One of the best chains I ever encountered.

For me X-Cut is better than Stihl RS!

 

[Wilhelm]

Round ground Vanguard loop on my PS-6100 MMWS in Turkey Oak, not factory stock/ground, true 20"/72DL B&C