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Milling chain zero to ten degrees

Discussion in 'Milling' started by Lightning Performance, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    As it says 404 or 3/8.
    Zero or five or ten degree cutters.

    Anyone running zero degrees semi chisel cutters?

    Anyone running round ground chisel converted to a square ripping chain at zero degrees?

    Will they be about the same square or round ground at zero degrees on chisel cutters?

    I can only convert round ground to square with a file. No square grinders near by me.

    Thoughts?
    Pics?
    Raker/depth gauge heights your using?



    My long bar is 167dl of chisel skip 404 now being filed from round oe Oregon down to square @10 or 15*. Not sure yet if it will cut well @10* This chain is just for plowing through wood fast as possible.

    My full comp 404 Oregon chisel 117dl flys @20* with 0.035 drags.

    Drags are @ 0.040 and better off the roll on most of the 404 and 404H. The chain sucks for felling or anything like this. Just grabby with the high seven degree angle of attack. Not user friendly. Too much bite at even 25* on the top plate.

    The cookie slab chain I use is RS full 117dl and it goes through perfect off the roll.

    Have not used much 3/8 but 15* cutters and 0.035 drags had some nicer faces. 10* should be smoother but slower. Have not tried five or zero on 3/8" Not sure it can handle it. 114dl is long as I go with 3/8 for now.
    Most if my bars are sprocket tipped so they can pull 3/8 if need for high grade hardwood. At that point I might resaw with LP or a band.

    The beam tool should have the best finish on the face of the beam. Zero square in 3/8 or 3/8 lp @ 5-10* would be great and I do plan on trying it soon.... like this week. Thing is these chains need to also survive old oaks, crotches and locust. Cherry cuts like like butter compared to them. Maple is all over the place hard soft figured. Plays hell on 3/8.

    I know more than a few of you reading this are milling but never sign in to post. Get your ass in here.
     
  2. mdavlee

    mdavlee Hillbilly grinder

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    If speed milling is your goal stay around 20 degree top plate square.
     
  3. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    With a round file, a 0° top plate results in a 90° (or 0) side plate. Not sure it'll sever fibers on the side. Or if that'll matter. But if you were square filing a 0° top plate, the side could end up with a 20 or 30° angle still on it, depending on how much you rolled the file.

    I always figured most rough sawn lumber ended up going through a planer or sander if it mattered. I'd go 15-20 like Mike mentioned and get done quicker
     
  4. mdavlee

    mdavlee Hillbilly grinder

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    Milling chain was painfully slow to me. 40% longer cuts and way more fuel and heat into the saws.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
  5. Stump Shot

    Stump Shot Old *pretty boy dipstick of Quality Staff Member

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    Have only used milling chain and settled on 5 degrees as a combo of speed and smoothness of cut for my needs. The less angle the smoother the plank will be. Tooth and raker uniformity comes into play when a smooth cut is desired as well, it takes a good bit of time to file a good milling chain that is exactingly uniform. Planks cut with a good chain can be used as is without planing for a more rustic look. This is much better than a band mill can produce.
     
  6. Marshy

    Marshy WFO Cutting

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    I do 5 deg on my Foley then move the vice in/out to increase the steepness of the cutting edge side on the side plate.

    My theory on semi chisel is you have more cutting surface in the wood than you do with a full chisel square or round and that makes it slower.
     
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  7. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Oh goodie feedback :cool:

    Not too worried about the face finish right now, planning ahead. If I want them smooth it will take even longer to mill at zero with an even stoned chain. We know stoning the chain, which I have not done yet, will leave a better face. Just getting my ducks all in a row before tackling the real "money wood" for the least amount of waste.

    The big stuff over four feet wide will be a bit crowned and cupped. Even the fat belly has a bit of sag. That can be righted somewhat if I'm cutting under 46" wide with the 60" bar. The powerhead weight hangs some so it will take out the sag on the powerhead side and on the opposite side I'm gonna start running a double post. Hoping the vibes will be less not more with a triple contact point. If it works well I will be drilling the big bar for a direct bolt up mount with no clamp. Less chance of the bar moving with a defined mounting point imo. That should help when I get the big power head mounted and kicking ass.

    I'm dying to get the bigger saws in the mix. Still keep coming up short cause *s-word breaks in life and just won't fix it's self :confused:
     
  8. Leeroy

    Leeroy Well-Known OPE Member

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    I usually run square filed chain at 0-5 top plate for milling. Probably close to 80 side plate. Not sure on depth gauges but pretty low compared to a ripping chain.
    I happen to run semi skip for logging, so that's what I mill with. 3/8 .50 on an 066. Hardwood or pine. Fast and smooth finish in my opinion. I try to mimic a circular saw bit to some extent.
     
  9. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Do you know what angle is on the bottom of your top plate?

    I plan to go with much more "under the top" angle on the 404 than a 3/8" cutter will survive. Thin the 3/8 top plate and they get hot. 404 never does on my setup. Going to square file and thin down that top plate more. At some point the cutter will suffer. Should be faster with 404. Testing will tell the tale. If it does go faster the next step imo is to narrow the cutters and stone it. Guessing I should use full skip to test. Less cutters to ruin.

    3/8 0.050 is all my smaller bars up to a 28" ES. I do have one 3/8" ES WN in 0.050 to get a loop of LP on and try out a 114dl

    Was just staring at some nice red cedar up to 24"w in 4-6' lengths last weekend....could almost smell it. Soft wood to test that LP in off the roll. LP should go quick.
     
  10. Leeroy

    Leeroy Well-Known OPE Member

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    I'd guess 40
     
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  11. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    1. How many drive links on your chain?
    2. What brand?
    3. Did it stretch?
    4. Standard bar oil or veggie?

    My biggest worry about trying cheaper chains in 3/8" is stretch.
     
  12. Leeroy

    Leeroy Well-Known OPE Member

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    Think it's 84dl on a 24" 72 on a 20
    Oregon
    No stretching as I like to use chains that I've already used for felling and bucking.
    Only time I've used canola oil was milling clapboards off a 6" White Pine cant
    Ms460 w 16" b&c
     
  13. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Good news.

    I have to tackle some big uglies like white oak and locust to make more done as is boards smooth as possible for my outside use.

    All my chains go somewhere to be used first. I don't buy dedicated mill chains. The hundred plus drive links get stuffed in hardwood stumps, when possible, till they settle in or used for bucking.

    I have Stihl chains, Oregon and others like Archer. These are about the only two that don't continue to stretch much on the longer bars. Archer has not seen the big bar yet. It continues to stretch on my medium mill but maybe it needs more oil. When they do stay wet on the mill they settle in nicely on the big two brands. If it continues I know they need more oil or better quality oil. 404 is pretty much one run and it sets right with no more stretch. Hot days vs cold days messes with it very little. Long bar with a cold rig.... first cut it gets loose. Second cut it comes right back tight when the bar warms up and expands. This is true for most everything I'd guess running more than a hundred drive links.

    Never really run over a twenty eight bar for work. Thirty two sometimes on the 066. The Archer seems ok on that with 0.063 3/8" 105dl. Initially it stretches a lot imo.

    Most of the long loops are still at 20* or 15*

    Just re-ground a whole bunch of skip chisel and semi @10* to test. It all hit nails and spikes. All 404 0.063. Next up is trying the 3/8" 0.050 @10 then 0*.
     
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