Show off your splitter

[Wood Doctor]

Adjust the unloading valve on the pump to make it stay in the low pressure side longer.

That seems really interesting because it does tend to drop into the high pressure side a bit too soon and slow the machine down. Good point. I will look into that. I never realized it was adjustable.

Then again, this pump must be almost 30 years old. I've thought about trying a 13 new gpm pump with the 6.5 Hp engine that I installed.

 

[Tiewire]

How do you adjust the unloading valve?

 

[94BULLITT]

How do you adjust the unloading valve?

There is a cap nut on the the pump that you remove. Then you can take a screw driver and adjust the valve. Clockwise increases the pressure for the High GPM. If you turn it in too much you will stall the engine before it switches to the high pressure. What I did was had the wedge about 8'' from the end of the stroke and kept running out to full stroke so it would shift into the other stage. I got it to where it would kill the engine then I backed it off to where it would not stall it so I had it at the max for my engine.

 

[Tiewire]

Thanks Bullitt I'll try that!

 

[dall]

There is a cap nut on the the pump that you remove. Then you can take a screw driver and adjust the valve. Clockwise increases the pressure for the High GPM. If you turn it in too much you will stall the engine before it switches to the high pressure. What I did was had the wedge about 8'' from the end of the stroke and kept running out to full stroke so it would shift into the other stage. I got it to where it would kill the engine then I backed it off to where it would not stall it so I had it at the max for my engine.

pictures or video please

 

[94BULLITT]

pictures or video please

I would but I sold my hydraulic splitter Sunday. I'm not sure if @Tiewire got it figured out and could help you out. Or if you feel trying it and have a question I may be able to walk you through it. Basically your are looking for the cap nut that has the screw under it. Turn it as much as you can without it causing the engine to die.

 

[Tiewire]

I should be splitting again Friday and trying to adjust un-loading valve. Will get back to you and let you know how it goes.

 

[Tiewire]

Adjusted screw under capnut by the suction hose today one turn at a time until it bottomed out. It never made any difference. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I don't believe so. Any suggestions?

 

[94BULLITT]

View attachment 40544
Adjusted screw under capnut by the suction hose today one turn at a time until it bottomed out. It never made any difference. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I don't believe so. Any suggestions?

You got it as long as you engine does not stall before it switches in the second stage with the screw all the way in. When you turn the screw in you are making it stay in the first stage longer. It will build more pressure in the 1st stage now. Before it may have been set at 400psi so when it hit something a little hard it would switch to the second stage and be slow. Now with the screw turned it may take 800psi for it to go into the second stage so now you can split something harder before it switches. It is not going to be night and day faster but it will make it a hair faster. It is a easy tweak to do to make it a hair faster.

 

[Tiewire]

Thanks Bullitt, if it's faster I can't tell. I'll pay closer attention tomorrow to see if I can see any difference. I was expecting a more drastic change and wasn't looking for a subtle change.

 

[94BULLITT]

Keep in mind mind that if you make 800-900psi in the first stage now, that still won't be a lot of tonnage but it is better than 500psi. I'm sure it will make a difference once in a while but it will probably be tough to tell or test.

Here is an example. If you have a 4'' cylinder with a 2'' rod.
500psi would be 6283lbs
900psi would be 11310lbs

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

I am just guessing at what you unloading valve is set at now and what it was before but you could have about doubled the amount of force you have in the first stage.

 

[Big_6]

Prince 2500psi cylinder,
Briggs & Stratton 9hp
Tine Power,
Pto pump: Model 888 Williams Machine & Tool, Omaha, Nebraska
in reservoir tank,
single valve unknown.
It's slow, but powerful!

Work in progress...

Balanced weight, 4 bolt hubs, 12 inch wheels, pressure guage installed, possibly not pictured...

Jacked up to working height!

 

[Gary Courtney]

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Sierrawoodsman]

My splitter has been a work in progress since I got it. I'm pretty happy with it now.
Specs:
13-Hp Honda (gx390)
22-gal/min barns 2 stage pump
25 gal reservoir w/level temp indicator (up graded this year)
Prince 5" Cyl & auto valve.
Custom 4 way wedge re-designed by a friend of mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Stump Shot]

My little Bark Buster in action.

Please do not tell me about the government report on this. I read it and think it's BS. If you don't like it, that's fine please just move along.

 

[mtnwkr]

This is an old Didier splitter I rebuilt last year. I ended up selling it to a buddy that needed it more than me and I still get to use it whenever I need to.

Before pictures, after sitting outside for many years. I gave it a quick powerwash to get most of the sludge off. Surprisingly the motor started up with fresh fuel and everything worked as it should.

Welded up a new tank from some scrap steel. Went from one gallon to four. Thats the biggest that would fit. Seems to do just fine and doesn't get too hot.

After..

Muffler mod to direct the exhaust up instead of at the operator.

I haven't found anything yet that this wouldn't go right through. It will just chug through and sheer off chunks that wont split.

 

[bigbadbob]

This is an old Didier splitter I rebuilt last year. I ended up selling it to a buddy that needed it more than me and I still get to use it whenever I need to.

Before pictures, after sitting outside for many years. I gave it a quick powerwash to get most of the sludge off. Surprisingly the motor started up with fresh fuel and everything worked as it should.
Welded up a new tank from some scrap steel. Went from one gallon to four. Thats the biggest that would fit. Seems to do just fine and doesn't get too hot.
I haven't found anything yet that this wouldn't go right through. It will just chug through and sheer off chunks that wont split.

Wow nice job right there!!

 

[Dolmar Junkie]

There is a cap nut on the the pump that you remove. Then you can take a screw driver and adjust the valve. Clockwise increases the pressure for the High GPM. If you turn it in too much you will stall the engine before it switches to the high pressure. What I did was had the wedge about 8'' from the end of the stroke and kept running out to full stroke so it would shift into the other stage. I got it to where it would kill the engine then I backed it off to where it would not stall it so I had it at the max for my engine.

I realize that this is an old thread,but thought this info might be as valuable to someone else as it was to me. The pump on a pressure washer is adjustable in the same manner. I thought mine was pretty weak for a 3500psi pump but after going to the manufacturers website and discovering this, I can cut a 2x6 in half now. I actually dialed it back down a little....

 

[MrWhoopee]

If it can be done with electricity, that's how I'm going to do it. The fewer gas burners, the better I like it.

 

[dall]

If it can be done with electricity, that's how I'm going to do it. The fewer gas burners, the better I like it.

do you think the electric is more efficient I don't