Saw video thread

[huskyboy]

No, it’s stock timing, squish was .020, soory, I forgot some punctuation! Lol

Maybe advance it .020 and call it a day on it. Bet it gains. Some saws like advance and some not. I’m not the resident expert on 661’s but yeah.

 

[Bigmac]

Maybe advance it .020 and call it a day on it. Bet it gains. Some saws like advance and some not. I’m not the resident expert on 661’s but yeah.

I have been thinking about trying it, have done it to a couple 660’s, one like it and the other it wasn’t noticeable..I like to get some time one mods before I try something new so I can see the differences, she is about due for that mod!

 

[Bigmac]

Maybe advance it .020 and call it a day on it. Bet it gains. Some saws like advance and some not. I’m not the resident expert on 661’s but yeah.

Plus it’s only a flywheel key...worst case!!

 

[Dub11]

I did a base gasket delete and widened the intake and exhaust squish is .020 and a large single port on the muffler with baffling removed and max-flow, so not really ported but not stock either. Lol

Yeah I'd say that's ported.

 

[huskyboy]

I call that mild porting a “farmer jones” mod like Bob and Walt do in there series of videos lol.

 

[huskyboy]

Does a 661 have a cast key or separate one?

 

[MustangMike]

As Mason stated, timing advance will not help every saw, but it makes a huge difference on some. My brother's 460 was very lethargic with the muffler mod till we advanced the timing on it. I also take .020 off the key of all the Asian 660s I build, and it seems to work very well in conjunction with the Cross P+C.

I would give it a try on your saw. The M-Tron may take a bit to get used to it (like it did on my 362), but it paid dividends. Even though it is an integral key, you can always reverse it by just spinning the flywheel the other way before tightening it.

I won't say it looks pretty, but I often reduce the integral keys using a triangular file. Not pretty, but it works.

 

[huskyboy]

He can reset the mtronic too after he advances the timing. One I’ve been running had a starting hiccup that resetting fixed. 90secs idle with choke on then straight to off...90secs idle with choke in run position then straight to off I believe if I’m not mistaken. Then run the piss out of it.

 

[Dub11]

I call that mild porting a “farmer jones” mod like Bob and Walt do in there series of videos lol.

The way I look at it, if a spinny thing removes more than casting flash then its ported.

As Mason stated, timing advance will not help every saw, but it makes a huge difference on some. My brother's 460 was very lethargic with the muffler mod till we advanced the timing on it. I also take .020 off the key of all the Asian 660s I build, and it seems to work very well in conjunction with the Cross P+C.

I would give it a try on your saw. The M-Tron may take a bit to get used to it (like it did on my 362), but it paid dividends. Even though it is an integral key, you can always reverse it by just spinning the flywheel the other way before tightening it.

I won't say it looks pretty, but I often reduce the integral keys using a triangular file. Not pretty, but it works.

When I here of saws reacting differently to a timing advance it makes me wonder if you took like 5 flywheels for a certain saw and stacked them up if key way and magnets would line up?

 

[huskyboy]

The way I look at it, if a spinny thing removes more than casting flash then its ported.



When I here of saws reacting differently to a timing advance it makes me wonder if you took like 5 flywheels for a certain saw and stacked them up if key way and magnets would line up?

Not all coils are the same in there advance curves. Sometimes they’ve been changed over a saws production run.

 

[Dub11]

Not all coils are the same in there advance curves. Sometimes they’ve been changed over a saws production run.

Did Stihl do that too? It seems like Husqvarna could never settle on what they wanted lol.

 

[Leafy]

Not all coils are the same in there advance curves. Sometimes they’ve been changed over a saws production run.

And even production tolerance. These chainsaw coils seem to be very simple so 1% tolerance on all passive components can add up to a few microseconds and at 11k rpm that's quite a few degrees

 

[huskyboy]

Did Stihl do that too? It seems like Husqvarna could never settle on what they wanted lol.

I think the blue limited husky coils are more aggressive advance curve than the black unlimited ones but that’s only what I’ve heard.

 

[MustangMike]

I think you guys are both right, but it also depends on cylinder timing, etc.

Yesterday, I ran Asian Twin #2 with a 36" bar in Red Oak, and it ran very strong. I know I have taken a lot of ridicule for stating that this saw is stronger with less of a muffler mod, but all I care about is what happens when the trigger is down, and this saw runs better now.

At the NY GTG, Asian Twin #2 had a more aggressive muffler mod, and Asian Twin #1 was clearly the stronger running of the two (you ran Twin #1 Mason).

So I purchased a new Asian muffler and did a less aggressive mod, and Twin #2 is running much stronger. It is at least as strong as Twin #1 now. I am very pleased with the results. If I had not built two nearly identical saws with the only difference being the muffler mod, I would never have figured this out.

FYI for anyone interested that is building (or has) an Asian 660 w/Cross P+C (the saws also have base gasket delete and timing advance of .020). I take the stock Huztl Muffler and drill a 1/2 hole through the lower back of the baffle, and leave the rest of it as is. SIMPLE!

I'm not sure why it works, but I have to think that unburned fuel is escaping from the combustion chamber with the more aggressive muffler. I know the resulting intake # on these saws is often over 80, so that may have something to do with it.

 

[Dub11]

I think the blue limited husky coils are more aggressive advance curve than the black unlimited ones but that’s only what I’ve heard.

Yeah I need to read Bob's husky coil thread a couple more times lol. I was wanting to see production variances on the flywheels.

 

[Deets066]

I think you guys are both right, but it also depends on cylinder timing, etc.

Yesterday, I ran Asian Twin #2 with a 36" bar in Red Oak, and it ran very strong. I know I have taken a lot of ridicule for stating that this saw is stronger with less of a muffler mod, but all I care about is what happens when the trigger is down, and this saw runs better now.

At the NY GTG, Asian Twin #2 had a more aggressive muffler mod, and Asian Twin #1 was clearly the stronger running of the two (you ran Twin #1 Mason).

So I purchased a new Asian muffler and did a less aggressive mod, and Twin #2 is running much stronger. It is at least as strong as Twin #1 now. I am very pleased with the results. If I had not built two nearly identical saws with the only difference being the muffler mod, I would never have figured this out.

FYI for anyone interested that is building (or has) an Asian 660 w/Cross P+C (the saws also have base gasket delete and timing advance of .020). I take the stock Huztl Muffler and drill a 1/2 hole through the lower back of the baffle, and leave the rest of it as is. SIMPLE!

I'm not sure why it works, but I have to think that unburned fuel is escaping from the combustion chamber with the more aggressive muffler. I know the resulting intake # on these saws is often over 80, so that may have something to do with it.

I’m glad it works for ya Mike. But you aren’t goin to turn this into muffler mod and HD2 thing are ya?

 

[MustangMike]

Nope, just sharing info, like I hope everyone does.

 

[Deets066]

Nope, just sharing info, like I hope everyone does.

Just Razzin ya Mike

 

[huskyboy]

I think you guys are both right, but it also depends on cylinder timing, etc.

Yesterday, I ran Asian Twin #2 with a 36" bar in Red Oak, and it ran very strong. I know I have taken a lot of ridicule for stating that this saw is stronger with less of a muffler mod, but all I care about is what happens when the trigger is down, and this saw runs better now.

At the NY GTG, Asian Twin #2 had a more aggressive muffler mod, and Asian Twin #1 was clearly the stronger running of the two (you ran Twin #1 Mason).

So I purchased a new Asian muffler and did a less aggressive mod, and Twin #2 is running much stronger. It is at least as strong as Twin #1 now. I am very pleased with the results. If I had not built two nearly identical saws with the only difference being the muffler mod, I would never have figured this out.

FYI for anyone interested that is building (or has) an Asian 660 w/Cross P+C (the saws also have base gasket delete and timing advance of .020). I take the stock Huztl Muffler and drill a 1/2 hole through the lower back of the baffle, and leave the rest of it as is. SIMPLE!

I'm not sure why it works, but I have to think that unburned fuel is escaping from the combustion chamber with the more aggressive muffler. I know the resulting intake # on these saws is often over 80, so that may have something to do with it.

If I’m gonna be honest... I think the variable of two separate saws is too much and can interfere with the results your getting. If I bought 10 brand new 661’s I bet one will be a animal, one a turd and the rest about the same. You have to consider every little detail.

 

[RI Chevy]

Mike, I wonder if the 2nd saw that Al ported is running stronger because its breaking in? More tanks, stronger it gets? Maybe after about 10 more tanks, throw the bigger port muffler back on and see if it's stronger or not?
Just thinking maybe rings seated, and it loosened up due to more run time.
AKA saw broken in. ????