HELP! Rakers on safty chain.

[Jscb1b]

So I've got a safety chain that would not cut wet doggie doodoo if it was steaming hot. I have the bar and chain tool from Stihl. It has cut outs in the middle for setting your rakers. The rakers are flush with the notch in the tool. All the chain makes is sawdust. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Are you using the correct round file to sharpen the chain so it has a bit of hook. ?

Maybe the raker file guide is the wrong one for the chain ?

How much has the cutters been filed back and did cut better before (ie when new)

Can you post some pics ? As I think it would help solve the issue

 

[Shane¹]

Pictures would definitely help

 

[Wilhelm]

Even with too high rakers a sharp chain should cut with pressure.
I am guessing Your cutters aren't as sharp as You think.

Yes, pictures would help.

 

[davidwyby]

Safety chain cuts ok…until the rakers get down to the “extra” safety rakers…just needs more file/grind action. I take the chain off the bar, fold it, and touch the safeties to a bench grinder. Sometimes I grind the front edge into a chip sweeper instead of a ramp.

 

[HumBurner]

Safety chain cuts ok…until the rakers get down to the “extra” safety rakers…just needs more file/grind action. I take the chain off the bar, fold it, and touch the safeties to a bench grinder. Sometimes I grind the front edge into a chip sweeper instead of a ramp.

Exactly.

While obnoxious, I've found the same. Be a little more aggressive with the file and be SURE the two "teeth" of the depth gauge are even. It's very easy to have a hair of a ridge left on one but not the other. They have to be completely even.

 

[blades]

Simple solution - don't buy nanny state chains

 

[HumBurner]

Simple solution - don't buy nanny state chains

To be fair, one can improperly file a standard depth gauge as well, leading to the same problems.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Simple solution - don't buy nanny state chains

To be fair, one can improperly file a standard depth gauge as well, leading to the same problems.

And after a few years accumulating saws, bars and chains, a guy tends to end up with a bunch of these "safety" chains. Might as well figure out how to make them cut halfway decent rather than go out and buy new stuff, even if it's a little better.

 

[ZERO]

Safety chains can cut just as well as the normal stuff.

Assuming one knows how to sharpen properly to have a clean side and top plate with a nice working corner it boils down to two variables:

The depth gauge static or progressive has to be opened up to where the raker and the safety raker clear the plate. If not done, safety raker gets in the way and the gauge floats on top of it causing an incorrect setting.

Second, as we discusswd in "bunch of random pics of cutters" when opening up the gullet and filing back the safety raker, we open up the "breathing room" chips expunge more freely not bogging the saw down.

Down the line I can take better pic and post as I am working away from my saws.

 

[Wilhelm]

Low Kickback "safety" Full chisel Dolmar branded Oregon, .325".
Fresh ground and rakers set today.



With this thread in mind I did what I do quite often, removed the "safety feature"!
Lets be honest, a chainsaw is anything but safe, same can be said for a well sharpened full chisel chain - it is a joke really.

DL bumpers ground off


Actual rackers ground to a round attack surface for less drag, to reduce shock loading the chain, and it makes setting the rackers much easier on the next sharpening.



You want safety while operating a chainsaw?
Use proper PPE and common sense!
Also be aware that a chainsaw is not a toy to be played with nor underestimated in regards of danger while being handled.

 

[Wilhelm]

And after a few years accumulating saws, bars and chains, a guy tends to end up with a bunch of these "safety" chains. Might as well figure out how to make them cut halfway decent rather than go out and buy new stuff, even if it's a little better.

I like receiving once used-never- sharpened "safety" chains!
I just remove the "safety" out of the chains.

Vanguard is my most favorite safety chain!

 

[Wilhelm]

"Vanguard" loop on my MMWS6100

 

[JugHead27]

Simple solution - don't buy nanny state chains

Lol!

 

[Jscb1b]

I got out the 4 inch grinder. The chain is grabby but cuts. It is 3/4 worn out so I'm going to abuse it.

 

[HumBurner]

Safety raker filed back in the "gullet" just enough to comfortably fit both 5/32 and 3/16 files in.

I gotta get a pack of 11/64 cause I can't find the one or two I had.

 

[chipper1]

View attachment 386196
View attachment 386198
View attachment 386199

Safety raker filed back in the "gullet" just enough to comfortably fit both 5/32 and 3/16 files in.

I gotta get a pack of 11/64 cause I can't find the one or two I had.

Looks pretty dull.

And after a few years accumulating saws, bars and chains, a guy tends to end up with a bunch of these "safety" chains. Might as well figure out how to make them cut halfway decent rather than go out and buy new stuff, even if it's a little better.

Remove said safety bumpers and add a bit of hook, most Semi-chisel benefits from adding a little additional hook, but then you need to be careful not to remove too much raker.

 

[HumBurner]

Looks pretty dull.

Remove said safety bumpers and add a bit of hook, most Semi-chisel benefits from adding a little additional hook, but then you need to be careful not to remove too much raker.

Dull indeed!

We don't run large hooks because we're often cutting at ground level or in dirt, along fencing, roads with debris (or private land with trash in the woods.) Rarely do we ever cut in "clean wood" either. Longevity of the sharpening is key for much of our cutting over faster.

 

[Squareground3691]

Dull indeed!

We don't run large hooks because we're often cutting at ground level or in dirt, along fencing, roads with debris (or private land with trash in the woods.) Rarely do we ever cut in "clean wood" either. Longevity of the sharpening is key for much of our cutting over faster.

.404 with a 1//4 file ,

 

[chipper1]

Dull indeed!

We don't run large hooks because we're often cutting at ground level or in dirt, along fencing, roads with debris (or private land with trash in the woods.) Rarely do we ever cut in "clean wood" either. Longevity of the sharpening is key for much of our cutting over faster.

Then why not run semi-chisel?
Looks like you have plenty of hook, although I'm sure many out west get a bit more aggressive with it because they can cutting softwoods.