Oregon EXL chain

[usmcbuckwild]

The bore cutting is excellent from what I see in the video. Cut better than I thought it would.What if you filed the the rakers down behind the main cutter teeth. Like file the raker on every other tooth. It may help with chip clearance coming from the tooth in front and help to keep the chips from clogging up. I also think it would still cut strait. I am very interested to see what you come up with. Make me want to build my own to play with. Glad you like. Offspring was born yesterday evening. All are well

Congrats!

 

[jmester]

Thank you both. Now is the time for his mama to spoil him. Gives me time to recover from the cost of the birth. He will get to have great fun with saws.
Now back to the chain thread.

 

[RI Chevy]

This may have been asked already by me or some other member, but I'll ask again.
Regarding the filing angles of this EXL chain, the witness mark clearly shows me 30*, but the out of the box sharpened angle is 25*.
Anyone have insight in this?
I did find this to help me. Lol

 

[jakethesnake]

This may have been asked already by me or some other member, but I'll ask again.
Regarding the filing angles of this EXL chain, the witness mark clearly shows me 30*, but the out of the box sharpened angle is 25*.
Anyone have insight in this?
I did find this to help me. Lol
View attachment 161612

Really depends what you like Chevy. I be at like 35 quite a bit for green n clean. 25 will hold up longer It’s really more of a preference

It basically just changes the angle of attack.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’ve actually never ran any exl

 

[Wolverine]

This may have been asked already by me or some other member, but I'll ask again.
Regarding the filing angles of this EXL chain, the witness mark clearly shows me 30*, but the out of the box sharpened angle is 25*.
Anyone have insight in this?
I did find this to help me. Lol
View attachment 161612

So the question is, which do YOU like the best?
If there is a witness mark on the top plate, it’s there for a reason.

 

[RI Chevy]

That's what I thought Jason. I was always taught to use that witness mark for the recommended sharpening angle, but why the difference?

Thanks Jake

 

[Wolverine]

Loss in translation between country of design, manufacture, box/manual printing, etc? Probably cost too much to correct it, if they even know.

 

[Wolverine]

5 degrees, with what you are doing, you might not even be able to distinguish if it were a blind test.

 

[RI Chevy]

LMAO. OK. Thanks Jason. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't boogering up a nice chain.
Just want to do ut correctly!

 

[usmcbuckwild]

That's what I thought Jason. I was always taught to use that witness mark for the recommended sharpening angle, but why the difference?

Thanks Jake

Different angles of the cutter face dictate how the chip is cut/peeled away from the wood. A higher numerical angle takes a more ‘slice’ of the wood, while the lower numerical angle is more like using a chisel against the wood. Different wood types respond better to different angles. IIRC low angle for hard wood and higher angle for soft wood. Very low angle teeth are for milling as going across the end of the fibers requires smaller chips be taken from each of the fibers to prevent tearing/pulling of the fibers.

The memory ain’t what it used to be, so I might have the angles/wood types reversed.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

I’ve actually never ran any exl

You should. Most people who do like it quite a bit.

 

[RI Chevy]

Thanks Curt. [emoji106]

 

[Philbert]

The 'top plate angle' defines the skew angle that the top plate enters the wood at (like angling a chisel when cutting) when separating chips, but also defines the side plate cutting angle - the one that actually chops through the wood fibers.

You can try to get this in your head, or just grind / file a few different chains at different angles, and see what works best for you. Might be 27.6°!

Philbert

 

[Willard]

Windsor sold full house chain years ago to the soft metal cutting market.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Windsor sold full house chain years ago to the soft metal cutting market.

People around here use full comp for everything: big wood, bucking, limbing, shrubs, tall grass, rocks....

I thought I had seen some pretty trashed chains back up north, but man these folks can literally grind teeth right off and burn up a chain like I have never seen in my life. Not break teeth off, i mean run the saw against whatever object is in/on/under/around the wood until the teeth and rakers are literally ground down and indistinguishable from each other. If I saw 1 or 2 I would think it was a coincidence, but I have seen at least 20 like that.

 

[Philbert]

People around here use full comp for everything: big wood, bucking, limbing, shrubs, tall grass, rocks....

'Full house' (no spaces between cutters) is used by some chainsaw carvers, to get smoother cuts. I have also seen it in an advertisement from Japan, for cutting bamboo.

Philbert

 

[huskyboy]

I like lgx better than the rest handfiled. Out of the box stihl rs and exl cut about the best.

 

[Philbert]

The chain marketing guys seem to be really focused on out-of-the-box ('OOB') performance right now. Problem is, that some of the newer chains are ground on multi-axis grinders, which means that it can be hard to duplicate at home. Might take positioning of the file or grinding wheel to come close. I hope that they share their 'secrets'!

Philbert

 

[Willard]

'Full house' (no spaces between cutters) is used by some chainsaw carvers, to get smoother cuts. I have also seen it in an advertisement from Japan, for cutting bamboo.

Philbert

25 years ago when I was heavily involved doing carving exhibitions I made up Stihl 1/4" full house chains.
Just sat in a comfortable chair with 2 loops of chain and did the whole process with a Break N Mend pliers.