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How accurate is metal detecting in a log?

Nutball

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My detector is pretty accurate on shape and location on the ground, but what's your success with using a metal detector to find nails and stuff in logs?

I know a guy with a big hedge log I want. It has been sitting for a long time so I'm not sure if it is rock hard or rotten, but I don't want metal compounding the dulling problems. I do know there is some metal in it.
 

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My detector is pretty accurate on shape and location on the ground, but what's your success with using a metal detector to find nails and stuff in logs?

I know a guy with a big hedge log I want. It has been sitting for a long time so I'm not sure if it is rock hard or rotten, but I don't want metal compounding the dulling problems. I do know there is some metal in it.
9V Harbor Freight wand is good for about 4 inch depth if you hold it just off the log. Run the metal detector over it before EVERY cut.
 

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Good info. I welcome other experiences.

I went over today and forgot about the log, so no metal detector or 90cc, and it was a 28" Osage log. Anyway the guy let me use the Echo 590 I ported for him with 28" bar. He bet it would take 3 chains, I got it done with 1 Archer chain, and it wasn't too bad afterwards. I didn't hit any metal, but found 2 screws, a metal strap and an eye bolt sticking out of it, and it was laying on a pile of metal trash.
 

av8or3

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My buddy goes over every single log with a metal detector before it go’s on the sawmill. He once bought a giant black walnut crotch thinking of what great end tables it would make BEFORE he checked it with the detector. Thankfully he got around to it and the detector went off the scale when he neared the log. He threw it on the burn pile and over time a large fish hook shaped plow shear began to reveal itself. Somebody laid in the crotch one day and the tree grew around it.
 

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Carbide gets damaged just like anything else that would hit some large metal object.
I think I had a special kind of carbide in mind: http://www.carbidechain.com/cobracarbidechain.php If that full house chain could come in 3/8 it would have the same TPI and speed as a 14" carbide metal cutting saw. I imagine .404 would do better in big wood. It would be slow cutting for sure either way, but I'd think you could cleanly cut through a chunk of metal and leave it part of your milled wood.

Once the metal is identified, then what?
Then avoid that part of the log, cut around it.
 

Moparmyway

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I think I had a special kind of carbide in mind: http://www.carbidechain.com/cobracarbidechain.php If that full house chain could come in 3/8 it would have the same TPI and speed as a 14" carbide metal cutting saw. I imagine .404 would do better in big wood. It would be slow cutting for sure either way, but I'd think you could cleanly cut through a chunk of it.
Seriously, I wish you would stop reaching so far. Look at their videos, cutting roofing and thin sheetmetal is one thing, but their own video shows water cooling from a hose, forever to cut a #2 spike, then the chain is wiped out and smokes like crazy finishing the 6x6 or 8x8.

Yes, there are different grades of carbide, but it’s definitely NOT going to last being used with a chainsaw trying to cut any steel thicker than thin sheetmetal. Even roofing nails damage the carbide. Yes it will cut a hole in the roof, but you will not be able to cut many holes before it needs to be sharpened or replaced
 

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In a rescue situation they are in a hurry to cut those things, if someone took their time, it might work. The carbide circular saws cut a lot thicker than sheet metal, and last a while without getting smoking hot running dry. It's on my list of things to try when I've got money to throw away on one of those chains.

If I stop reaching so far, I may never reach anything worth while.
 

legdelimber

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Carbide is better in clean, new metals.
Take it from someone has who spun a bunch of pipes in a big lathe (Rollers for asphalt compaction).

Rust eats the edge off of carbide pretty fast, even the titanium nitrided tooling.

If you can get under the rust with the tool, the tip lasts better, but the rust layer will wear a notch into the leading side of the insert.
The inserts ("teeth") don't hang for long once they're notched.
Makes a small crunchy snapping $ound if you try to keep running carbide with a notch worn into it.
 

Lightning Performance

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If I stop reaching so far, I may never reach anything worth while.
Your reaching in the wrong direction. The carbide won't cut bolts and steel spikes as good as other commercial chains available. I do have a way figured to cut steel in logs but carbide isn't in the equation. A test will tell a lot. Maybe next month. Getting a better metal detector is worth far more than expensive one use chain you can not sharpen at home with common chain grinding stuffs.
 
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