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Flying Tiger MS660

T.Roller

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I'll say this, I never would've thought it would work out well but a faller I know and trust has a 660 he built with Mike Lee's sky high exhaust and *s-word ton of intake duration and he says no other 660 he's ever ran would touch it.
Something to think about.......
I'm doing 2 cylinders. I'll try out a couple different recipes
 

GoBigBlue1984

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Pics are tough to judge how flat the roof is. You could give it a little arch, or just make the bevel heavier as it approaches center of the port. Can you measure how wide it is flat?


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Some guys like a flattish exhaust roof.......just bevel like crazy.
 

MustangMike

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Some guys like a flattish exhaust roof.......just bevel like crazy.

That is what I did, thanks.

Saw has a ton of compression with the Ex at 105, will see how it runs after break in. If I'm not impressed, I'll rip it down and either add a .010 gasket or raise the Ex.
 

MustangMike

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I'm gonna be honest, with trying to get this thing sorted out fast, and the flywheel spinning, then the carb leaking and causing compression lock, my arms are shot!

So I asked my neighbor Big Chris to come over and give a second opinion. Some of you may have met Chris at the Upstate NY GTG a few years ago. Chris is 6'6", 350 lbs and strong as an Ox. His Dad was a auto mechanic, and Chris trained to be a mechanic before he decided to become a Cop. He knows a lot about engines of all sizes, growing up on a farm in the Western Tier.

He pulled the saw over slowly with the Comp Rel button pushed, and told me my bearings are smooth as silk. He then started the saw in a few pulls using the Comp Rel. He stated the saw has very high compression, and when that button pops, it will rip the cord out of your hand (it is not just me).

He loved how well mannered the saw was, it idles smoothly, and responds well. I have the Hi set a bit rich, but that is on purpose. I also turned the oiler all the way up, and I will tell you this saw has no problem oiling, I may turn it down a bit, it makes a mess after you shut it down.

Now I just need to put some time on it and see how it cuts.
 

MustangMike

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I only sanded the base enough to remove the finish so it would stick, nothing measurable.
 

MustangMike

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First we will have to run it and see if it is good enough for any class! Then, we can measure the base thickness.

That Cross cylinder comes with a noticeable coating that would be tough to remove with just Scotch Brite.

I may re check the squish, but the biggest difference I saw between this cylinder and the prior Cross I put on the 066 was the lower Ex port.
 

T.Roller

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First we will have to run it and see if it is good enough for any class! Then, we can measure the base thickness.

That Cross cylinder comes with a noticeable coating that would be tough to remove with just Scotch Brite.

I may re check the squish, but the biggest difference I saw between this cylinder and the prior Cross I put on the 066 was the lower Ex port.
Doesn't matter rules clearly state no sanding the base in class 1
 

MustangMike

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I always lightly sand before using the brake cleaner, a procedure I picked up from Randy, and it does work to get things the brake cleaner misses.

If that puts me in another class, so be it, but I did not sand to change the thickness or squish. However, I do want it to stay sealed, I had to re seal one once that was not cleaned well enough. Don't care to go through that again.

With that anaerobic sealer, it has to be really clean & flat.
 

dall

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id say the reason randy sands his is to get rid of some machining marks not because it was slick on the bottom if you notice the bottom of a oem cylinder is smooth also
 
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