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Flying Tiger MS660

MustangMike

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Your saw runs very nice! I got 2 066s I have no problem starting w/o using the decomp ... this one is different!

Maybe it will break in or something, we will see.
 

MustangMike

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id say the reason randy sands his is to get rid of some machining marks not because it was slick on the bottom if you notice the bottom of a oem cylinder is smooth also

I've never assembled a saw with a new OEM cylinder so I wouldn't know. However, IMO, you are foolish to not sand used OEM or AM cylinders because the used ones often have gasket material that you may not see, and the AM ones have protective coatings that I would not assemble unless removed.

I did not touch the ports on this saw other than to bevel the edges, and I assembled the jug the same way I did on the 044, 440, 460, and 066. That said I hear the cries, so I will withdraw my saw from the competition. After all, it would be embarrassing if my unported Beast spanked some of your ported masterpieces.

Enjoy your builds, as I plan to enjoy mine.
 

dall

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I've never assembled a saw with a new OEM cylinder so I wouldn't know. However, IMO, you are foolish to not sand used OEM or AM cylinders because the used ones often have gasket material that you may not see, and the AM ones have protective coatings that I would not assemble unless removed.

I did not touch the ports on this saw other than to bevel the edges, and I assembled the jug the same way I did on the 044, 440, 460, and 066. That said I hear the cries, so I will withdraw my saw from the competition. After all, it would be embarrassing if my unported Beast spanked some of your ported masterpieces.

Enjoy your builds, as I plan to enjoy mine.
i only use scotch brite no sanding on my stuff
 

dall

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I've never assembled a saw with a new OEM cylinder so I wouldn't know. However, IMO, you are foolish to not sand used OEM or AM cylinders because the used ones often have gasket material that you may not see, and the AM ones have protective coatings that I would not assemble unless removed.

I did not touch the ports on this saw other than to bevel the edges, and I assembled the jug the same way I did on the 044, 440, 460, and 066. That said I hear the cries, so I will withdraw my saw from the competition. After all, it would be embarrassing if my unported Beast spanked some of your ported masterpieces.

Enjoy your builds, as I plan to enjoy mine.
mine is gonna be a out of the box farmertec cylinder build even if theres something in the ports if i cant move it with a screwdriver to break it off its staying in it mike i dont have a problem with you in class 1 or 2 this is supposed to be fun
 

MustangMike

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Fun for me is not worrying about the BS, so I won't .

Scotchbrite is technically sanding also, just another form of abrasive. Heck, some people may even power it up and make it even more effective than hand sliding a cylinder on sand paper.

I got more important things to do than worry about this.

I'll still post about it.
 

Wagnerwerks

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Fun for me is not worrying about the BS, so I won't .

Scotchbrite is technically sanding also, just another form of abrasive. Heck, some people may even power it up and make it even more effective than hand sliding a cylinder on sand paper.

I got more important things to do than worry about this.

I'll still post about it.
You better.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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I clean up used cylinder bases with a piece of sandpaper on glass. I did the same to a new Farmertec 390 jug. It doesn't take off much unless you really work it and spend some time.

Heck I do it to most case halves I put together. Get it shiny, clean up any rough surfaces, build it and go cut wood.
 

T.Roller

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I've never assembled a saw with a new OEM cylinder so I wouldn't know. However, IMO, you are foolish to not sand used OEM or AM cylinders because the used ones often have gasket material that you may not see, and the AM ones have protective coatings that I would not assemble unless removed.

I did not touch the ports on this saw other than to bevel the edges, and I assembled the jug the same way I did on the 044, 440, 460, and 066. That said I hear the cries, so I will withdraw my saw from the competition. After all, it would be embarrassing if my unported Beast spanked some of your ported masterpieces.

Enjoy your builds, as I plan to enjoy mine.
I didn't mean to run you off brother just making sure you understand what was posted as the rules. I personally asked Randy the same question and got the answer if I sanded on the base at all its class 2. Fwiw I assembled my farmertech jug without any prep work other than degreasing it and it sealed fine with no base gasket. As for the comment about your saw beating others, that's great if it does man I'm sure my class 2 saw will be beat by class 1 saws but I'm in it for the fun of it. Again I apologize if my comments made you quit that wasn't my intentions at all.
 

Khntr85

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Wow, well glad to see you got her together....good thread minus the whining!!!

I will get a kit eventually, just to many projects as it is right now lol.....

I look forward for videos and updates!!!!
 

Deets066

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Try turning your flywheel key around and running stock timing.


Also, like Mopar said, I bet your still overfueling it some.

I wouldn't beat on the crank at all unles the jug was off, so you could see the hell you were doing and where the crank is at. I doubt that's your problem though.
 

MustangMike

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Yea, I thought of that, really don't even need to flip the key, just align it on the opposite side.

But I tightened that flywheel really good, so I at least want to see how it cuts where it is before I change anything.

I was also thinking the carb could be leaking again, but it did pressure test at 10 lbs before I reinstalled it. I know the Hi is set too rich (on purpose), I can hear it, and see in in the plug. Will adjust that soon.

If it runs like a Beast, it may be worth keeping it like this. If not, I'll start changing things till it gets more civilized. It is very well mannered after it is running, smooth idle, etc.

I took the 7 pin 20" bar set up off and replaced it with a 8 pin 24" bar that should give it a bit more of a challenge. If it ever stops raining, I'll try and test it out.
 

RI Chevy

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I am sure it will be fine after a few tanks and it loosens up a bit.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

T.Roller

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Yea, I thought of that, really don't even need to flip the key, just align it on the opposite side.

But I tightened that flywheel really good, so I at least want to see how it cuts where it is before I change anything.

I was also thinking the carb could be leaking again, but it did pressure test at 10 lbs before I reinstalled it. I know the Hi is set too rich (on purpose), I can hear it, and see in in the plug. Will adjust that soon.

If it runs like a Beast, it may be worth keeping it like this. If not, I'll start changing things till it gets more civilized. It is very well mannered after it is running, smooth idle, etc.

I took the 7 pin 20" bar set up off and replaced it with a 8 pin 24" bar that should give it a bit more of a challenge. If it ever stops raining, I'll try and test it out.
You could always put a Kickstart on it lol
 

MustangMike

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My brother was telling me how he converted an lawn mower to electric start....
 

mdavlee

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I have got to apologize to Mike, after it is warm you can start it w/o the decomp, but I would not want to pull it 5 or 6 times to get it going w/o the decomp.
No problem. I don't like decomp for that reason of closing every pull. They'll cause more pain than they save
 

MustangMike

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IT IS STRONG!!!

I did a video today, but unfortunately I'm unable to post it. When I transfer it to my computer it says "format we don't support". Don't know what the heck is going on, but seems to happen recently if I don't have the phone horizontal (instead of vertical).

Anyway, the saw has less than 1/2 tank of fuel through it, but I decided to give it a test. With an 8 pin rim and 24" B&C I put it in some Hickory. It made the cut about 14% faster than my strongest running ported 77 cc saws, and they run very well.

For a Chinese kit I put togher, with the Cross MMWS P&C (w/o any addl port work), I'm very impressed, and it should get even stronger as I run it more.

It kicked on the 2nd or 3rd pull with the dcomp pressed (choke on), and started 2 pulls later (choke off).

Also, as mentioned above, when it was warm it re started with one pull NOT using the decomp. Just took up the slack, and pulled hard.

I think I'm gonna like this saw!

I will try to get a video I can post, this is very frustrating!
 
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