262 Help

[Demsawzdo37]

Is the flywheel on in the correct position? Did I miss that?

The cast in keys for flywheels drive me crazy. I've had a few saws where I notch out the flywheel where the key was and then form a piece of Romex copper to make a key. It's not exact but it does work quite well. The key really is just for positioning ....the taper is what really holds the flywheel.

I like the idea of ruling out the switch too.

My dads 257 has done well with an aftermarket coil....though I've become less of a fan of them.

I used a center punch and made a couple alignment dots and slightly advanced the timing. So yes I feel at this point the flywheel is set correctly. If it does spark it's very weak almost none exsisting.

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[Demsawzdo37]

Timing marks

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[Mattyo]

I grind a notch in the end of the crank. ..like for a flat blade screwdriver. Helps confirm the alignment overtime especially if you aren't using a key.

Same idea as the dots.

If it was me I'd slap a new coil in there.

Out of curiosity. ..have you changed the plug? I like ngk bpmr7a

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I like ngk bpmr7a

I prefer the 6703 over the 4626

And yeah, pretty sure he changed the plug

 

[Stump Shot]

Give a sharp rap or two on the end of a socket over the flywheel nut to help "set" the flywheel and retighten. The new coils from Husqvarna work quite well and if this saw is something you plan on using quite often, are well worth the money. AM just do not seem to give as hot a spark when they do work. You can test for shorts on the grounding wire and on/off switch with an ohm meter, if any reading at all it's no good, should read 0.0 ohms. Coil gap should be .3MM
By the looks of your picture the one starter pawl is sticking and should be replaced.
Good luck with your repair/s.

 

[~WBF]

I sacked out 4 Walkerized 262's between '92 & 96. While tree thinning. I only ever owned one at a time. My ported 266 collected dust as in most ground I could make more money with the 262.

They were really reliable as far as coils. and engine. I only use the saw for 150 days each. About 1200 tanks with the trigger wide open.

In my experience with older coils from the 266 & 371/372 pre rev limited (black coils) they never ran 'half way'.
They were good or they weren't.
I can not recall any coil issue with the 262 other than moisture grounding them out from been packed with gunk around the coil and then ground out between the power lead prong and the saw body on wet days.
On the second saw I use had the shop put blue silicone around the exposed prong and never had any more issues again on the wet coast days.

I would be looking at the coil wire. It's old? Could be breaking down internally with no ark on the outside. Or is it arking?
Sometimes it happens close by the coil.
I just run my hand alone the wire where I can with the saw running and if I get a shock then I guess I found the problem. Nothing fancy with me. One thing I hate more that getting a shock and that is a saw that isn't perfect when I'm working.
Try reset the coil
. Make sure everything is clean. I agree with Mattyo.
It is the press fit in the tapper in the shaft that holds the flywheel not the pin.
Did you lift the coil wire boot up and see if it is clean? Make sure the plug end is properly connecting too.
Personally I would put a new coil wire on there anyway. Try different plugs?

 

[Simondo]

Timing marks

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Further to the info others have talked about ....If i see correct your 262 is Yr 1992. A saw of that yr its likely to have the cylinder without a de-comp and ..may or may not .. be a KS cylinder. The coils on this age of 262 have a very aggressive standard set advance in the coil so do not be surprised if even with the standard flywheel position it kicks back at you without a very firm pull over. Be mindful of this "If" you are thinking of any non standard ignition advance.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Further to the info others have talked about ....If i see correct your 262 is Yr 1992. A saw of that yr its likely to have the cylinder without a de-comp and ..may or may not .. be a KS cylinder. The coils on this age of 262 have a very aggressive standard set advance in the coil so do not be surprised if even with the standard flywheel position it kicks back at you without a very firm pull over. Be mindful of this "If" you are thinking of any non standard ignition advance.

Good catch!
It is a non-deco cylinder

 

[Simondo]

Good catch!
It is a non-deco cylinder

I have one of that yr myself from new in stock form, so if you and you friend need reference..........

 

[Demsawzdo37]

I grind a notch in the end of the crank. ..like for a flat blade screwdriver. Helps confirm the alignment overtime especially if you aren't using a key.

Same idea as the dots.

If it was me I'd slap a new coil in there.

Out of curiosity. ..have you changed the plug? I like ngk bpmr7a

Yes brand new ngk plug

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[Demsawzdo37]

Further to the info others have talked about ....If i see correct your 262 is Yr 1992. A saw of that yr its likely to have the cylinder without a de-comp and ..may or may not .. be a KS cylinder. The coils on this age of 262 have a very aggressive standard set advance in the coil so do not be surprised if even with the standard flywheel position it kicks back at you without a very firm pull over. Be mindful of this "If" you are thinking of any non standard ignition advance.

Perfect thanks for the info.

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[Demsawzdo37]

Further to the info others have talked about ....If i see correct your 262 is Yr 1992. A saw of that yr its likely to have the cylinder without a de-comp and ..may or may not .. be a KS cylinder. The coils on this age of 262 have a very aggressive standard set advance in the coil so do not be surprised if even with the standard flywheel position it kicks back at you without a very firm pull over. Be mindful of this "If" you are thinking of any non standard ignition advance.

It is a non decomp Mahler cylinder with a hda 87 carb

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[David Young]

simple punch list
coil fw gap?
clean paint free bolt holding coil down
spark plug gap
coil wire connection to coil itself is it screwed in tight?
coil wire terminal. is it clean in the boot and making good contact to the plug
is the coil wire terminal making good contact with the center wire.

continuity test the coil primary coil should be around 10k ohms if I remember correctly I have seen them fail and partially run. coil swap should be easy.

 

[Demsawzdo37]

I have one of that yr myself from new in stock form, so if you and you friend need reference..........

Perfect thanks

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[Adirondackstihl]

simple punch list
coil fw gap?
clean paint free bolt holding coil down
spark plug gap
coil wire connection to coil itself is it screwed in tight?
coil wire terminal. is it clean in the boot and making good contact to the plug
is the coil wire terminal making good contact with the center wire.

continuity test the coil primary coil should be around 10k ohms if I remember correctly I have seen them fail and partially run. coil swap should be easy.

^ what Dave said

 

[Demsawzdo37]

Robbed coil from a 51 parts saw and swapped coil wires and we have spark . Thanks for the help and support guys I truely appreciate it.

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[~WBF]

And swapped wires??? So you put the 262 wire on the 51 coil then and it was fine

Or you mean you put the 51 coil and wire on?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

And swapped wires??? So you put the 262 wire on the 51 coil then and it was fine

Yes

 

[Demsawzdo37]

And swapped wires??? So you put the 262 wire on the 51 coil then and it was fine

Or you mean you put the 51 coil and wire on?

I used 262 plug wire on 51 coil

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[Mattyo]

nice!