562xp Salvage

[eric4]

Howdy Y'all!

I snagged a 562xp in 'for parts' condition recently, hoping to build a strong runner for my dad. Upon arrival, the saw help pressure and vac, and the piston and cylinder seemed in good shape. It's a 2018 model

After disassembling, muffler mod, and cleaning, I noticed the crank has quite a bit of resistance at certain spots in the rotation. Seems like the bearings are shot, even though the case held pressure/vac...total bummer. Especially after looking at what goes into splitting the case and installing a new bearing and/or crank, I decided to throw down on a whole new shortblock Husqvarna 580663712 for $200

I feel a little crazy throwing money and parts at a saw that I've never heard running... But was coming here to seek for any tips on troublshooting the saw once it's reassembled with the new short block. My big issue is the ignition system/coil and carburetor. Is there any way to test the functionality of it outside of plugging it in at a service center?

 

[hacskaroly]

My big issue is the ignition system/coil and carburetor. Is there any way to test the functionality of it outside of plugging it in at a service center?

You can vacuum test a carb to see if it will hold pressure with it outside the saw, this will test for leaks. If it ends up being tight (no leaks) then you will need to put it in the saw and test it at that point. For a coil, you can take a look at this video to see if the information might work for you:

I noticed the crank has quite a bit of resistance at certain spots in the rotation.

Like you said, possibly a bearing issue or potentially a bent crank. I had a saw that had some gunk in the cylinder that I could not see but it caused it to have problems when it got to a certain point of the rotation. I ended up flushing it with clean fuel a few times and got some debris out that was out of site. Once it was out everything rotated smoothly.

 

[hacskaroly]

I feel a little crazy throwing money and parts at a saw that I've never heard running...

You are not the only one...I have a couple of hundred dollars in collecting parts for a 35 year old saw I found at the dump....I am sure there are others here in the forum that are in way deeper

 

[eric4]

Hah! Thanks for the encouragement! Just watched the video - very informative. I'll run his process on the 562xp coil. I'm assuming even though it's autotune, the coil resistances are still within the range mentioned.

Cheers

 

[pbillyi69]

i have easily spent more money on repairs for a saw that isnt worth what i spent on parts. welcome to the site there are a bunch of super solid people here and lots of good information.

 

[eric4]

Well I worked on the 562xp today, installing a brand new bottom end. Put everything back together, and no luck on firing up...

Threw a little gas in the carb and she still didn't pop, but maybe that doesn't work with autotunes?

Now I'll be researching various carb and ignition tests. Hopefully it's nothing too costly

 

[pbillyi69]

is it getting spark?

 

[eric4]

is it getting spark?

Can autotune saws have their spark tested in the same fashion as a regular carb'd saw? I tried it with the old bottom end previously using the technique of grounding the plug on the cylinder head and pulling the cord. Got no spark then... Figured since the coil and flywheel looked clean-ish, that autotuned saws can't have their spark tested in that way.

 

[pbillyi69]

auto tune saws should still make spark when you pull the cord. did you put a new plug in? check the plug wire make sure that it connected correctly and all of the contacts are not bent.

 

[hacskaroly]

Well I worked on the 562xp today, installing a brand new bottom end. Put everything back together, and no luck on firing up...

Now I'll be researching various carb and ignition tests. Hopefully it's nothing too costly

I have a 562 that I am working on, coworkers pulled it apart, cannibalized a few parts and left the rest. I have it mostly put back together, missing an air filter, oiler worm gear and a chainbrake handle. I tried to fire it up and it had some mighty compression! Would not fire, though it had spark, I put in a new plug and grounded it against the cylinder and saw it sparking up. Not sure why it didn't fire or try to fire. Probably will do a pressure test and tear it down to make sure nothing in the cylinder is boogered up.

 

[eric4]

Just checked for spark, and wasn't getting any. I cleaned the contacts of the ignition module, and flywheel, and still I'm not getting spark when grounding the plug on the jug.

This is all with a new NGK plug, but I guess I'll try the old one too, to rule it out.

 

[eric4]

Attached are some flywheel pics as well as the ignition coil contacts. There defiantly is a little corrosion on the contacts... Think the coil is the culprit?

 

[big_eddy]

Check the stop switch and wires. Should be an open circuit between the 2 wires on the push on terminals and between one side and the chassis.

 

[eric4]

Just went thru the wiring and everything seemed in decent shape, and attached properly including the ground wire.

I read that autotunes may not send spark if the ignition coil doesn't recognize the carb? Is this true?

Cheers,
Eric

 

[hacskaroly]

I read that autotunes may not send spark if the ignition coil doesn't recognize the carb? Is this true?

That would suck...I hope it isn't true.

 

[beaglebriar]

Just went thru the wiring and everything seemed in decent shape, and attached properly including the ground wire.

I read that autotunes may not send spark if the ignition coil doesn't recognize the carb? Is this true?

Cheers,
Eric

The carb must be programmed to jive with the coil. I do not know if that would completely kill spark.

 

[eric4]

The carb must be programmed to jive with the coil. I do not know if that would completely kill spark.

Sounds like I'll need to take a trip to the dealer and pay a $40 diagnostic charge at this rate. I'm assuming the carb and coil can communicate, since they were on the same saw originally, but maybe my saw was assembled with random parts and sold as-is... A bit stumped on any other solutions at this point.

 

[redline4]

Are the magnets on the flywheel still magnetic?
I'd check that first.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

@Spike60

 

[bigbadbob]

Just checked for spark, and wasn't getting any. I cleaned the contacts of the ignition module, and flywheel, and still I'm not getting spark when grounding the plug on the jug.

This is all with a new NGK plug, but I guess I'll try the old one too, to rule it out.

Did you check coil gap to flywheel